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Published By M.K? R.SURGHEIM, 



CINCINNATI. OHIO 



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A TRIP 



AROUND the WORLD. 



BY 



GEORGE MOERLEIN. 



With 110 Illustrations, Printed in Oil Colors. 



Cincinnati: 

M. & R. BURGHEIM, Publishers, 

484 Vine Street. 



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Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1 886, by 

GEORGE MOERLEIN, 

in the Office of the Librarian of Congress, 

at Washington, D. C. 



JUL 1 4 T936 



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Contents. 



1 



Introductory. 
Chapter I. 



Page. 



From Cincinnati to San Francisco. 

From San Francisco to Yokohama, Japan. . 9 

II. Life in and about Yokohama . . . 19 

III. Tokio, the Capital of Japan. 
Manners and Customs of the Japanese . . 29 

IV. Japan, (continued.) ..... 43 
V. In Shanghai, (China.) 57 

VI. At Hong Kong • . 69 

VII. From Hong Kong to Canton and Macao and return. 
From Hong Kong to Singapore . . . .79 

VIII. From Batavia to Ceylon .... 91 

IX The Island of Ceylon . . . . . .101 

X. At Pondicherry, Madras and Calcutta . . 107 

XI. A visit to the Himalaya Mountains, and Darjeeling 115 
XII. Traveling in India 121 

XIII. Through the Heart of India. Benares, Allahabad, 
Cawnpore, Agra, Delhi, and Bombay . . 129 

XIV. Arabia and Egypt 143 

XV. Palestine, the Holy Land .... 153 

XVI. Beyrout. The Grecian Archipelago, Smyrna and 
Constantinople . . . . . .161 

" XVII. From Vienna to Cincinnati . . . . 173 

Appendix : 

Our pictures . . . 



Hotel charges 
Distances traveled 



181 
203 
204 



I 



1 



Introductory. 



Late in the fall of 1884 I was busily occupied, one Sunday 
afternoon, in studying an atlas for the purpose of informing myself as 
to the different railroad lines to the Pacific coast, to which section of 
the country I contemplated making a trip for the double purpose of 
viewing the scenery and improving mjr health. 

While thus engaged, the idea suddenly dawned upon my mind 
that the time had arrived for me to untertake a long cherished journey 
—to make a trip around the world. 

After careful consideration I determined that, providing my 
parents consented and a suitable companion could be found, I would 
hazard it. That very eve'ning I unfolded my scheme at a family 



meeting. 



At the outstart no one would listen to my propositions, but 
after several days of importuning and reasoning, pleading and pledg- 
ing, I succeeded in satisfying all that the journey would greatly benefit 
me both mentally and physically. 

I was not long in persuading two of my oldest and dearest 
friends, Mr. Charles Cramer and Mr. John F. Leidlein, to accompany 
me on the proposed tour. We wasted no time in getting ready, for in 
just ten days after I reached my conclusion, we started, prepared to 
see and learn. 

From time to time during the trip the "Commercial Gazette" 
and the " Volksblatt," two of the daily papers of my native city, 



r 



published letters written by me, in which I related our experiences and 
the progress we were making. 

At the solicitation of a number of friends, who expressed a 
desire to have these letters and a brief account of our travels in con- 
venient form, I decided to have this book published. The letters have 
been somewhat changed in order that I might introduce incidents, 
events and facts overlooked then. 

I have confined myself almost entirely to the countries of the 
" Far East," because it was there we sojourned longest and had the 
opportunity of closely viewing the many, to us, strange sights and 
scenes. 

In submitting this volume to the public, I ask that it be not too 
critically judged. It is but a plain, fair and impartial recital of what 
we saw and did, without the slightest attempt at elaboration. 

The historical and statistical information was obtained from the 
most reliable sources. 

The illustrations were carefully chosen from a collection of over 
eight hundred original pictures gathered during our travels, and are 
colored true to nature. 

To the Krebs Lithographing Company of Cincinnati I owe 
much for the highly satisfactory manner in which their part of the 
work was executed. They secured the ablest artists and spared neither 
pains nor expense. 

My friends and traveling companions rendered me much valu- 
able aid in selecting the illustrations and collecting the data. 

That this volume may prove as enjoyable and entertaining to 
the reader, as did the journey 'round the world to the tourists, is the 
sincere wish of the 

AUTHOR. 



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Chapter I. 



Frnm Cincinnati tn San Fronciscn. 



Frnm San FranciGcn tn Ynknhama, Japan. 






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N the evening of the 8th of November, 1884, 
our party, escorted by a number of intimate 
friends, started for the depot. The customary 
farewells and hopes for a "happy journey and 
safe return" were exchanged, and in a few min- 
utes we were speeding across the country on 
an Ohio and Mississippi train. Thus was commenced our journey 
'round the world. We chatted merrily, each one endeavoring to con- 
vince himself and his companions that he had no fear as to a safe re- 
turn and a successful trip. Nevertheless each one left home with 
some misgivings. The journey promised to be somewhat dangerous, 
besides . instructive and entertaining, and we all had thoughts which were 
not given tongue. Becoming acquainted with several fellow-passen- 
gers, bound for different portions of the country, we became engaged in 
general conversation and soon settled down to the realities of the trip, 
satisfied with our chances for a successful termination of the same. 
We were as school-boys starting out for unknown realms, so the reader 
can appreciate our momentary hesitancy and trepidation. Just one 
week was consumed in reaching San Francisco, the "City of the Gol- 
den Gate." Our limited time was employed to the best advantage. 
Short stops were made at Kansas City, Denver, and the Mormon Capi- 



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11 



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12 

tal, Salt Lake City, where friends thoroughly acquainted led us directly 
to points of interest and. historic importance. The majestic beauties 
of the Rockies and the Sierras — beauties such as no pen can picture — 
were contemplated and enjoyed as our train thundered up hill and 
over dale, through forests and across apparently bottomless chasms and 
tumbling roaring mountain streams. The impression left upon our 
minds was lasting, though our opportunities for observation were limi- 
ted to the panorama-like shifting of scenes, on account of the speed 
and untiring strides of the "Iron Horse," drawing us willingly or un- 
willingly towards the point from which at a fixed time we were to 
venture upon the "briny deep." 

At Denver we were the guests of old friends, Messrs. Philip 
Zang and Simon Bichardt, and at the Mormon Capital, Mr. Henry 
Wagner entertained us' royally. We received the most cordial treatment 
at the hands of these gentlemen, who did everything in their power to 
make our short sojourn in their respective cities entertaining, enjoyable 
and instructive. Our "mutual friends," Messrs-. Herman Wieland, and 
John F. G. Eggers, met us on our arrival in San Francisco. Our wel- 
come was so hearty and sincere that we were at once assured our visit to 
the Golden State would be an enjoyable one indeed. Though very 
brief, less than a week being spent in California, the stay there exceeded 
our anticipations. San Francisco, with all her wealth, gaiety, ' and 
frivolity was an innovation upon the more staid customs and habits of 
our Eastern cities and rather dazed the three travelers from Porkopolis, 
but notwithstanding the surprises of the City of the Golden Gate scenes, 
sights, and experiences awaited us in other parts of California which can 
be appreciated only by a personal visit. A flying trip to Los Angeles 
impressed us above all others. We expected much on account of the 
many descriptions we had read and heard. Half of it has never been 
told. This is, indeed, a "land of flowers," "a paradise," an "elysium." 
With perpetual summer, a climate wonderfully salubrious, and sur- 
roundings indescribably beautiful, Los Angelos, once seen, will never 



r ■ ^ 

10 



13 



be forgotten. It might be a home for the Gods. We unanimously 
pronounced it the most lovely place we had ever visited. 

Saturday afternoon, November 22nd, 1884, at 3 o'clock, we took 
leave of our friends in San Francisco and embarked on the magnificent 
steamship "Rio Janeiro," of the Pacific Mail Line, on which we had 
engaged passage to Yokohama. We started under very promising 
auspices, as the weather was the finest we could possibly have wished. 
But alas ! the morning after our departure presented a very different 
spectacle. The serene sky of the previous day was obscured by dark 
and threatening clouds, and the sea was very rough. From this day 
until the end of our voyage the bright sun's rays never warmed our 
decks. An idea of the roughness of the weather we encountered on 
this trip may be formed from the statements of the officers of the ship, 
that it was the stormiest passage they had experienced since sailing the 
Pacific, and some of them had been on its waters for forty years. On 
the twenty-fourth day out the storm reached its height, and from early 
morn until midnight a terrible hurricane rolled the waves mountain- 
high, so that at times the ship seemed to be literally enveloped in a 
sheet of water, which poured over the decks and penetrated to our 
staterooms and even extinguished the fires in the kitchen. The ship 
was tossed about by the angry waves like a toy, and the passengers who 
were all kept below, suffered greatly. Progress was almost totally im- 
peded, and the captain told me that for six hours we had not moved for- 
ward a mile. 

The reader may be assured that all on board were anything but 
merry. Jokes were at a discount, and prayer-books and joss-sticks 
(joss-sticks are sandal -wood sticks, which the Chinese burn as offerings 
to their numerous gods) were at a premium. One lady missionary, a 
cabin passenger, claimed positively, that it was not human skill, or in- 
genuity, that kept the boat from going to pieces, but attributed our luck 
solely to Divine Providence. Be that as it may, one thing is certain : 
it was a miracle, that the good ship did not go down, for seldom has 



14 



there been a more terrible and angry sea to contend against. How 
anxiously must the poor stockholders of the Pacific Mail Company have 
looked for tidings of their gallant "Rio Janeiro," and its immensely 
precious cargo ! 

Yes, how cheerfully would we have gratified their hearts and 
eased their troubled minds, had we only been able to send them a mes- 
sage of our safe arrival in Yokohama ! 

But this happiness was denied to us, and our only alternative was 
to submit to the inevitable and patiently await events to come. 

One day, while seated in my cabin, wrapt in deep meditation 
over our deplorable situation, my friend John appeared in the doorway 
and, with such an expression of abject misery upon his countenance as 
to make me almost fear that he was on the verge of despair, delivered 
himself in the following strain : " George, I am totally disgusted, ' life 
on the ocean wave' has lost all charms for me, and as to being 'lulled 
into a sweet slumber by the rocking of the cradle of the deep' — heaven 
forbid ! I would that it were over," and away he hied himself ostensi- 
bly for the purpose of singing his plaintive dirge into the ears of some 
other patient listener. Poor John ! 

Friend Charley's cup of bitterness also had been full to the 
brim for some time. This very day it overflowed, and with wild gestic- 
ulations he gave vent to his feelings by saying : 

" This is the Pacific Ocean. From what the word Pacific im- 
plies it should be the calm ocean, the still, serene and smooth ocean ; 
but oh ! what a deception ! what a mockery ! Avhat a fraud ! The whole 
sea in furious commotion ! Waves mountain-high continuously threaten 
to destroy us. When are Ave to be delivered from this evil ?" 

I answered him by heaving a deep sigh, whereupon, having cast 
a pitiful look at me, he entered the smoking-room, where he was soon 
enjoying a sweet siesta, totally oblivious of the very serious discussion 
that was going on there among the officers of the ship, relative to the 
probable exhaustion of the coal supply within the next few days. 




T* JAPAN ^V 



SEIOENWEBEREI 



* 15. 

Our fellow-travelers, whose misfortune it was to be compelled 
to bear us company on this memorable voyage, numbered eight cabin 
passengers, all told ; four ladies, one a missionary, about fifty years of 
age, one fifteen, one twenty, and the other twenty -six. There were 
four gentlemen. This included my friends and myself. The steerage 
department contained over seven hundred Chinamen, piled one above 
the other like cordwood. 

These Chinese were a horrible set of human beings. One visit 
to their quarters was enough to satisfy anybody. The majority of them 
were going to China, to celebrate the New Year, which takes place in 
January or February. The faith these Chinese have in their religion, 
may be realized from the fact, that thousands of them travel to China 
every year, a distance of over six thousand miles, merely to spend the 
holidays in their native land, and to do honor to the gods of their own 
construction. Many of the Chinamen on board were in their last 
stages, and going home to die. This was truly a sad looking spectacle. 
Some had already succumbed, which gladdened the heart of the ship's 
doctor, who received $12.50 for every dead Chinaman he embalmed. 
The Chinese will not allow any of their number to be consigned to the 
sea, when dead, as the last wish of every one of them is, that they be 
buried in their native soil with their ancestors. If not enough is ob- 
tained from the effects of the deceased, a collection is taken up among 
his friends to pay for embalming, and also sufficient to send the body 
to China. 

The doctor was daily expecting the demise of several more un- 
fortunates and was in high glee over the prospect of reaping a rich 
harvest from dead Chinamen before the ship reached its destination — 
Hong Kong. The worthy doctor even had designs on me, at least, I 
had good reasons to suppose so ; but I completely frustrated his plans 
by positively refusing to avail myself of his services. 

Our missionary lady passenger was a highly interesting person- 
age, stately and sociable. The impression she made on us was that of 

^*i i ■■-■■■_.. *S 



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16 



a good and pure Christian woman, sincere in her calling. She had 
lived with her husband in China, to which country they had been sent 
to spread the Gospel among the almond-eyed children of the Flowery 
Kingdom by one of the New England missionary societies, for many 
years. 

Shanghai was their home, and, judging from her remarks, they 
had no intention of ever coming back to the United States to live, but 
would spend the balance of their days in the far East. 

" We suffered many hardships and braved many dangers in the 
early days of our service, but, thank God, things have taken a brighter 
turn, and the hope we have ever so long fondly cherished, that we will 
soon be placed in the position of spending the evening of our lives in 
ease and comfort, seems to have been realized, " said she one evening 
while a few silent tears rolled down her cheeks. 

This was her third visit to the United States since her attach- 
ment to the Chinese station, and twice had she made the trip around 
the world, the first time by way of Singapore, Ceylon, Suez, Malta, 
Gibraltar, Liverpool to America, returning by way of San Francisco. 
The second time she took the opposite route. 

Her husband had never left China since landing there many 
. years before, nor had he at any time expressed the slightest desire of 
again seeing the land of his birth. 

The missionary society had granted him leave of absence a num- 
ber of times, agreeing to defray all of his expenses, but he could not be 
tempted to undertake the journey. 

Many pleasant hours were spent on board the ship in her com- 
pany, listening to the vivid descriptions of her experiences, whereby we 
gained much valuable knowledge, particularly of the Chinese people, 
their manners and customs, and other peculiarities. 

We also received much information in reference to traveling ac- 
commodations in China, together with a list of the interesting sights in 
and about the immediate vicinity of Shanghai. 



J 



•>, 

17 

Our young lady passengers, by their modest and lady-like 
behavior, won the respect and admiration of all on board. The eldest 
of these young ladies was also destined for Shanghai, China, where she 
was to enter into the missionary service, to which calling she had sacri- 
ficed her future life, in the capacity of a music teacher, to instruct the 
Chinese youth to sing Christian hymns. We all wished her success 
with a feeling akin to pity. I understood Pittsburgh was her native city. 
The youngest female passenger was the daughter of a missionary sta- 
tioned at Amoy, China, where her parents have resided for years. She 
was on her way home after a sojourn of six years in the*United States, 
where she had completed her education. Our third young lady passen- 
ger, of whom we saw very little, she being confined to her cabin 
during the greater part of our voyage, was destined for Yokohama, 
where she was to accept a responsible position in some large business- 
house. 

Our male fellow-passenger was Captain Nelson of the U. S. 
Navy, who was " under orders " to join the Pacific Squadron for a three 
years cruise. Captain Nelson was a companion, indeed. Many and 
valuable were the instructions we received from him relative to our trip 
through China and Japan. He was always cheerful, no matter how 
gloomy the outlook. Never could, one detect in his countenance the 
slightest sign of anxiety or fear. 

He and the lady missionary were the only first class passengers 
who " bobbed up serenely " at every call of the bell for meals. They 
were on hand always, continually complaining of a bad appetite, yet, as 
Steward James informed me, never passing a course. 

Referring again to our voyage I would state, that at about two 
o'clock on a Sunday afternoon, the twenty-ninth day out, the joyful 
tidings came to us that our fondest hoj^es were soon to be realized, 
and that within a comparatively short time our destination, Japan, would 
be reached. Faint outlines of the " promised land" could already be 
distinguished in the far, far distance. 

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18 



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Everybody rushed on deck. The wildest excitement prevailed 
for some time. All eyes were strained looking westwardly, in which 
direction, .on the horizon, rose out of the angry sea, what at first ap- 
peared to be a cloud, but which, upon close observation through the of- 
ficers' glasses, proved to be the faint outline of the rugged Japanese 
coast. 

" We will cast anchor before Yokohama some time to-night," 
said the captain. One and all expressed the fervent hope that his pre- 
diction would come true, for surely our taste of wild-ocean life was 
such as to make even an old sea-dog wish for land. 

We cannot speak in too high terms of the splendid treatment we 
received at the hands of the officers of the ship. Captain Cobb, Pur- 
ser Freeman, First Mate Hart, Freight Clerk Donohue, Clerk Wells, 
Dr. Reardon, Engineer Herland and especially Steward James, Assis- 
tant Steward Bede and Watchman Scott, did all in their power to ac- 
commodate us and make the surroundings cheerful. They vied with 
each other in showing us favors, and nothing on board the ship was too 
good for us. In fact, we owned the ship for the time being. We shall 
ever feel grateful to them for their kindness, and Ave sincerely hope that 
some day the opportunity will be offered to reciprocate the many fa- 
vors shown us. 



L 



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Chapter II. 



LifE in and abnut Ynknfiama, Japan. 



19 



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and the anchor cast. 



HE captain, true to his promise, brought us into 
our destined harbor that very night. At ex- 
actly eight o'clock on Monday evening, 
December 21st, the engines were shut down 
The lights of Yokohama were in sight. The 
noise of a busy city could be heard. 

The city was within hailing distance and it took but little imag- 
ination to place ourselves on land. 

It is impossible to describe the feeling of relief we experienced, 
when our trusty steamer was safely anchored. The hardships and dan- 
gers of our voyage were instantly forgotten, and we began to look upon 
our stormy passage over the Pacific as a sort of interesting experience. 
The dangers of the voyage were now treated lightly and spoken of as 
an instructive demonstration of Nature's awful grandeur. 

Within a half-hour after anchoring the boats from the Grand 
and Windsor Hotels appeared by the side of our ship to take us on 
shore. Although we were very anxious to take immediate advantage 
of the opportunities to land, Ave were compelled to remain on board un- 
til after breakfast the next morning. 



21 



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The cause of our detention was the impossibility of taking our 
baggage with us, owing to the custom-house being closed. 

Steward James, upon being informed of our intention to remain 
aboard, immediately dispatched his able assistant, Bede, ashore, to lay 
in a supply of Japan's delicacies of the season for next day's breakfast. 

" I will set you a farewell meal to-morrow, " said he. " fit for 
ernperors, kings, mikados, and even Cincinnatians." 

It was nearly midnight when we turned in and sought our 
bunks. Sleep was out of the question. We were too excited at the 
prospect of soon setting foot on terra firma again, to allow Morpheus 
to gain control over us. 

We impatiently awaited day-break, which finally appeared, slug- 
gishly creeping above the eastern horizon. With it came a terrible 
noise from the hold of the ship — an uproar, as if Bedlam had broken 
loose. It was but the work of a moment to spring out of bed, dress, 
and start toward the scene of the disturbance on a tour of investigation. 

We found that the cause of all this deafening clamor was the 
presence of several hundred chattering coolies, a number of whom 
were occupied in unloading the cargo destined for Japan into small 
" lighters, " to be transferred to shore. The balance were engaged in 
replenishing the almost exhausted coal-bin. While working they kept 
up a continual chanting, singing, grunting, howling and jabbering, 
creating a combination of diabolical sounds, which were enough to 
shatter the strongest nerves. 

The whole gang, all Japanese, were under the command of a 
European, who was decidedly under the influence of stimulants. His 
"Hayaku" (hurry up), you scoundrels, you devils; "Abanaio" 
(take care), you rascals, you villains ! " resembled the roaring of a 
wild beast. 

These coolies at work formed one of the most interesting spec- 
tacles that I ever beheld. Their dress was very scant, some of them 
wearing nothing but a cloth around their loins and a light cloth across 



r~ 



23 



the shoulders. Many dispensed with the shoulder-cloth entirely. 
Their head-dress consisted of a blue cotton rag, twisted in every con- 
ceivable shape and form. Some wore knee-breeches ; a few backs were 
covered with old coats of various shapes and colors ; while others had 
blankets tied around the shoulders. The legs of nearly all, from the 
knees down, were completely bare, the soles of the feet being covered, 
in some instances, by a piece of straw matting. 

The reader will doubtless be surprised when informed that the 
temperature at the time was several degrees below freezing-point. But 
this did not seem to concern the coolies in the least, and, to all appear- 
ances, they felt as comfortable as if the temperature had been forty or fifty 
degrees higher. An estimate may therefrom be formed of their hardiness, 
fortitude, and power of endurance. They are small of stature, like all 
Japanese, but very muscular ; in fact, many of them are as fine speci- 
mens of physical development as I have ever seen. They are very skillful 
in their work and nearly all of them gave evidence of great strength. 

I was informed that some of these coolies will, without help, 
easily handle barrels, boxes, or bales, to move which three and even 
four San Francisco 'longshoremen would consider a hard task. 

Another sight worthy of mention, was the great number of fruit 
venders and peddlers of all kinds that jcanie on board for the purpose 
of disposing of their goods. They were consigned to the steerage 
among the Chinese, where they did a brisk business. Every peddler 
and vender has his own " sampan, " which is a kind of large skiff, pro- 
pelled from the stern by means of one large oar. The " sampans " are 
also used for ferry service in carrying passengers to and from ships. 
Hundreds of this sort of craft crowd the harbor constantly. 

At nine o'clock, Monday morning, December 22nd, just one 
month from the day we started on our voyage, we sat clown to the 
table, to partake of the farewell meal on the steamer. Steward James 
was as good as his w T ord and had prepared a most excellent breakfast. 



1 



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24 



It would be useless for rue to attempt to enumerate all the dain- 
ties aud delicacies furnished. Suffice it to say that it would have satis- 
fied even the most fastidious epicure. Mr. James can rest assured we 
will never forget him nor his breakfast, and will always cherish a fond 
remembrance for both. 

Breakfast over, we bade all the officers good-bye, kindly 
thanked them for the courtesies shown us during the voyage and boar- 
ded the Grand Hotel steam-launch, into which our " traps " had already 
been lowered. 

We were soon steaming toward the Yokohama custom-house. 
After a superficial examination of our baggage by the officials, we 
headed for the hotel, where we arrived at about 11 : 30 o'clock. 

The hotel is situated on the so-called "Bund," which is the 
first street from the landing, running parallel with the bay. 

The buildings here are nearly all substantial structures, erected 
and owned by Europeans. The view from the " Bund," looking out on 
the bay, with its hundreds of ships, the surrounding country serving as 
a frame, is really a charming picture. The more you observe it the 
more it fascinates you. 

The rooms assigned to us at the hotel were large enough for 
small dancing-halls. There Avas plenty of light and ventilation and a fine 
view of the harbor. The furniture was neat and comfortable, the sur- 
roundings clean — in fact, the whole room presented a cheerful and 
home-like appearance. 

This hotel, by the way, has the reputation of setting the best 
table in the Far-East. The proprietors, Messrs. J. Boyer and Paul 
Muraour, both Frenchmen and professional cooks, give the kitchen 
their personal attention. They serve the very best of every thing, 
thereby strengthening their already well-established reputation. 

The various dishes of a meal were served in very small portions, 
although an order could be duplicated as many times as the guest 
wished, and cooked to perfection. You could not help relishing the food 



J 




GIRL AT THE WELL 



MADCHEN AM DRUNNEN 



JAPANE8E BEAUTY JAPANESISCHE SCHONHEIT 



^ 

* OR * 



25 



at this table, whether or not you had an appetite previous to sitting- 
down. 

The service was first class. The little " Jap " waiters, dressed 
in tight black leggings and short jackets, with their great skill in 
handling dishes, and their wonderful activity, were a pleasure to be- 
hold. The service of many of the first-class hotels of the United 
States compared very unfavorably with these always busy, attentive, 
hurrying little fellows. Owing to the fact that the " Jap " waiters 
could neither speak nor understand English the guests in ordering 
meals would call from the bill of fare by numbers. The following bill 
of fare will give the reader an idea of the meals served and how : 

GRAND HOTEL. 
J. Boyee & Co., ----- Proprietors. 



Dinner. — Bill of Fare. 
Yokohama, January 17th, 1886. 

1 Swallow's Nest Soup. 

2 Fish a la Chambord. 

Entrees. 
3 Loin of Veal a la Polonaise. 
4 Snipe a 1' Imperiale 
5 Boiled Mutton a la Reine. 
Vegetables. 
6 Beans. 'Spinach. 
8 Carrots. 9 Salsifis. 
Joints. 
10 Roast Beef. u Roast Truffled Capons. 
12 Curry and Rice. 
Entrements. 
13 Pudding a la DuBarry. 
14 Choux Pralines aux Violettes. 
15 Sorbets Riches. 
"Coffee. 17 Tea. 



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Of Yokohama it must be said, that it is the only city in Japan 
having anything like a large foreign (European and American) popula- 
tion. Next to it comes Yeddo, then Kobe, and fourth in the list is 
Nagasaki. It is the principal seaport and has many large and wealthy 
business houses. The eastern portion of the city is built on a high 
bluff. Here the buildings, almost entirely private residences, are 
substantial and attractive, surrounded by beautiful and extensive 
gardens. The American, English and German naval Hospitals are 
located in this neighborhood. On the bluff is also a fine park, called 
the Bluff Garden. In the immediate vicinity are a 1,000 yard rifle 
range and a mile track race course. The Japanese quarter of Yoko- 
hama, which, with its suburbs Kanagawa and Hodogangai, harbors 
about 100,000 souls, has no prominent features which distinguish it 
from the rest of the native cities. From the harbor can be seen the 
volcano of Fusiyama, (extinct since 1707), sixty-two miles distant, the 
pride of Japan. It is over 14,000 feet high. The Japanese are 
very fond of painting this volcano on many of the articles for deco- 
ration. 

A laughable incident occurred during our stay in Yokohama. 
The Fire Department was testing a new engine. Among the numerous 
spectators was an old Japanese, who appeared to be highly interested in 
the workings of the machine. He scrutinized all the different parts 
very closely, even going so far as to climb upon the engine and look 
down into the smoke-stack. The jeering and railing of the by- 
standers did not concern him in the least. He continued to examine, 
smile and shake his head. He had never seen such an animal before. 

The scene created great merriment, and was very characteristic 
of the people. This incident recalled to my memory the ante-bellum 
story of the old Oshkosh pioneer, who, upon seeing the first fire-engine 
in operation, remarked : " Yes, it beats our old hand-pump all to 
pieces, but I cannot understand why in the deuce they cook the water 
before squirtin' it on the fire." 



V 




PEASANT GIRLS IN FULL DRESS 



~j r3 JAPAN Cr \_ 



8AUERNMADGHEN IM FE8TSTAAT 



r' 



27 



The Yokohamians are a queer people, judging them from a 
charitable or humane standpoint. On the last day of the year 1884, 
the General Hospital, a most necessary institution, which was main- 
tained by voluntary subscriptions, the expenses of which were trifling 
in comparison to the population and wealth of Yokohama foreigners, 
was closed " on account of lack of funds," yet a $30,000 theatre, for 
which more money had been subscribed than necessary, was nearing 
completion. In my opinion the building of a theatre is highly proper, 
but to supply it with sufficient funds while the most charitable and 
necessary institution — the hospital — is allowed to be closed, is an incon- 
sistency hard to explain. 



V. 



~J 



r~ 



^ 



Chapter III. 



TnRIn, the Capital nf Japan. 



MannErs and CuatnmE nf thE JapanESE. 



L 



29 




>E spent several days in Yeddo (Tokio or 
Tokiyo in the Japanese language), the cap- 
ital of Japan, whose present population num- 
bers over one million. 
Previous to the year 1868 the city is said to have 
contained over two millions of souls and at one time she 
claimed the distinction of being the largest city in the world. 
Up to 1 868 the government had two heads — the Tycoon, the 
civil head, and the Mikado, the religious head. 

The actual power of the government was vested in 
some two hundred officials, known as "Daimios," each of 
whom was the ruler of a certain district and, like the feudal lords of 
old, had in his employ hundreds and even thousands of retainers or 
soldiers. 

These " Daimios " were compelled to reside in Yeddo at least 
six months in the year, and for the balance of the year or during their 
absence their families were held as hostages conditioned upon their 
loyalty. As a consequence the " Daimios, " together with their families 
and retainers made Yeddo their home altogether, swelling the popula- 
tion almost a million. 



31 



r 



32 



"^ 



After the close of the memorable revolution of 1868, which 
ended in the defeat of the Tycoon, who was reduced to the rank of a 
prince, aud the elevation of the Mikado to the sole rulership of the 
empire, the " Daimios " were granted the privilege of permanently re- 
siding in their respective districts, but were required to disband their 
retainers, the general government having assumed entire control of 
military affairs. Yeddo thereby lost fully one-half of her population. 

The main attractions of the city of Yeddo proper are her Budd- 
hist temples, of which the temple of Shiba or Siba is the largest and 
undoubtedly the finest. The altar and the great pillars surrounding it 
appear as of one mass of shining gold. The carvings, such as idols, 
birds, fishes, animals of all kinds, and indescribable monstrosities and 
mythological creatures, are gorgeous. 

Gold (yellow), red and green are the prevailing colors, though 
others are here and there appropriately applied. The whole scene is 
so grandly beautiful, as to leave on every visitor a profound and 
lasting impression. 

The Shinto temples are mostly built on elevated places. They 
are very plain, both in construction and inside finish. There are no 
idols in them. On the altar stands a looking-glass, and to one side 
a bronze gong. These are used in the religious ceremonies or prac- 
tices, that consist 1st, in washing the hands in a font placed directly 
inside the entrance ; 2d, praying before the mirror ; 3d, striking the 
gong to notify the Sun-goddess (the great Goddess of the Shintoists) 
that the worshiper has finished for that occasion. 

The Shinto priests, it appears, take little interest and pay 
scarcely any attention to the service ; at least, so I was informed by a 
Japanese who ought to know. 

Both religions, the Buddhist as well as the Shinto, have 
undergone great changes in the lapse of time : the one adopting 
rites of the other, and vice versa, until both have entirely lost their 
original character. In fact, none but a close student of the subject 



V-c- 




,'APCNRFPfl ISIAHO. NEAR NAGAS. 



f 3 .TftPATff 0> \ 



DIE PAPENBERG INBEL BB NAGASAKI 




FUSIYAMA, THE HOLY MOUNTAIN 



FUSirAMA, OER GEHEIUGTE 8ERG" 



33 



"^ 



can give anything like a clear definition or explanation of either, 
and even such a one will admit that there may be questionable 
points in his theory. 

Yeddo, like all Japanese cities, has narrow streets ; low, single 
(rarely two or three) story houses Avith immense roofs, altogether out 
of proportion to the rest of the building. The roofs of most buildings 
in the city are covered with heavy, sometimes ornamental tiles, and 
straw is used for the same purpose for buildings in the outskirts. 
They are all built more or less in the bird cage style. By this I mean 
that the houses are very small — doors and windows in keeping with 
the size of the people. In most instances the windows are guarded by 
lattice work, giving the dwellings the appearance of huge bird cages. 
Glass is very rarely used in the windows, thin tissue-paper answering 
this purpose. There are, of course, exceptions to this rule. The 
temples; the stores and godowns (warehouses) of the larger 
merchants, many of which resemble large safes and are built on the 
fire-proof plan, with doors and shutters from six to eighteen inches 
thick ; the residences of the wealthy ; also the government build- 
ings and schools, most of them being grand structures, and 
the residences and other buildings of the Europeans are exceptions of 
the rule mentioned. Many of the legations of foreign nations have 
large and imposing buildings, those of the United States comparing 
favorably with the rest. With their new coat of light yellow paint 
with dark trimmings they present an appearance of elegance and 
cheerfulness. 

The cities of Japan are very similar one to another. They 
differ only in size and natural surroundings. Every house ajjpears to 
be a store or shop of some kind, the only exception being an occasional 
residence of a wealthy native, or a warehouse. How the proprietors 
of these shops manage to exist is a mystery to all but the Japanese. 

Fully seventy-five per cent of the stores carry the same line of 
goods, viz. : — tea, coffee, rice, vegetables, and fruit, and a limited stock 



V- 



J 




"^ 



34 



of these at that. Most of the other shops are " tea-houses, " where 
hot tea and even stronger refreshments are dispensed. The majority of 
the houses have but one room, the dimensions of which are about 
twenty feet square, and their half- facing the street answers the purpose 
for the store or shop, while the rear half, which is slightly elevated and 
separated from the front by a frail lattice-work partition covered with 
paper, is used as the dwelling-room. The. whole equipment of the 
rear room consists of a few mats on the floor and a fire-box, made of 
wood and about one foot square, without a cover and three-fourths 
full of sand and. ashes, in which is kindled a small fire with 
bits of charcoal. This answers both as a parlor stove and a kitchen 
range. Around this box the members of the family squat in cold 
weather, endeavoring to keep warm by holding their hands over this 
tiny fire — with what success I could not learn. The spare clothes, al- 
though they seldom have any, together with the bed-clothes, are kept 
in a drawer or pocket attached to the wall, which alike answers the pur- 
pose of a bureau and Avardrobe. At uight the matted floor serves as a 
bed, where, wrapped in their blankets or gowns, the Japanese sleep as 
soundly as if their heads were resting on pillows of down. Only the very 
wealthy enjoy the luxuries of stoves, beds, and other furniture. The 
poor, of which class Japan has more than her quota, are left to 
themselves, without fire-box, mats, or blankets. It is one of the 
greatest mysteries how these poor people can exist under the unfavorable 
circumstances attending a severe winter in Japan. 

In stature the Japanese people are below the average. The 
complexion ranges all the way from a pale yellow to a dark brown 
color. The hair is coarse and jet black, and is worn by the younger 
men to probably six inches iu length. Many of the older males shave 
the tops of their heads and ajlow the remaining hair to grow to con- 
siderable length, which they then do up in womanly style with hair- 
pins and crimps. They present a horrible appearance. 

In the cities the majority of the men, old and young, wear no 



J 



r 



35 



head covering. Many of the upper class have adopted the European 
costume, including hats and caps. The government officials and sol- 
diers also dress in European style. The average Japanese male attire 
consists of tight-fitting pants (regular stage tights), mostly of a dark, 
rarely a light color ; a vest or waistcoat ; and over this a garment made 
after the pattern of a cape, with sleeves several feet wide. These serve 
as pockets for carrying handkerchiefs, pocket-books, fans and small 
packages. Around the lower part of the body is worn a dark colored 
cloth, or sash, reaching below the skirt and resembling a tightly fitting 
skirt. 

The Japanese women are shorter in stature than the men and 
smaller in every way; but their heads, like the roofs of Japanese hou- 
ses, are entirely out of proportion. The female costume resembles 
that of the men, but a Japanese belle of the wealthy class, when arran- 
ged in her best, presents an elegant appearance. Their greatest time 
and attention is devoted to the hair, which is done up in elaborate 
style with ornamental pins, combs, fans and tassels. A sort of paste 
or glue is used for dressing the hair, which produces a shiny, unnatural 
appearance. 

The children are all dressed in the same manner, and from out- 
ward appearances resemble each other as much as one egg does another. 
The babies are carried on the backs of the mothers or older children. 
Occasionally a father or a grand-father can be seen with a lump of hu- 
manity between his shoulders. The mothers who seem to be very fond 
of their children, take particular delight in making the heads of the 
little innocents look as odd as possible. Some mothers will, for in- 
stance, shave off the hair entirely ; others will allow a tuft to remain 
on top. Then again, in order to differ from some one else, a third 
child may wear a bunch of hair above each ear, while its companion 
will have regular walks shaved around its head, making it look like a 
miniature park. It is true, that this does not improve the looks 



^ 



36 

of the little ones but on the contrary gives them the appearance of 
monkeys rather than human beings. 

The country people or farmers all dress alike. An outfit is 
made up of dark blue tights, wide sack-coat, with large sleeves and a 
light blue cloth around the head tied up iu an inconceivable shape. 
The men and women dress almost alike. These people are all very 
poor. The houses in which they live are miserable hovels, covered 
with straw. The number of children met with while passing through 
the rural districts is surprising. The villages literally swarm with 
them. The coverings for their bodies cannot be called clothes, they are 
patched-up rags, though apparently sufficient to keep the children com- 
fortable. Owing to the fact that applications of soap and water are 
few and far between, their complexion cannot be determined. 

The whole of Japan is owned by the government, and the land 
both in the cities and in the country is rented or leased to the inhab- 
itants at enormous rates. The farmer can scarcely realize enough to 
pay his rents. Trouble of a serious nature is soon to follow unless 
some remedy is applied in the near future. As to rents Japan is ac- 
tually in a worse condition than Ireland. The people in the rural dis- 
tricts, although industrious, polite and harmless, retain many of the 
rude customs of their ancestors. . A lady would find a trip into the in- 
terior anything but agreeable. One of the customs rigidly adhered to 
in the country by the married women, though it exists to some extent 
in the cities, is the blacking of the teeth and shaving of eye-brows. 
This gives them an appearance that is disgusting in the extreme and 
makes them look like monsters. It is said there are no native birds that 
sing, no odoriferous flowers and none but imported sheep. The cows are 
small and unfit for dairy purposes. The horses are scarcely larger 
than ponies. The roads are narrow, few wide enough for ordinary ve- 
hicles; most of them are less than eight feet wide, so that traveling 
must be done either on horseback, or in jinrikshas (large baby carriages 
drawn by one or two men), or afoot. Freight is transported into the 




NATIVE QUARTERS AT YOKOHOMA 



j/5 JAPAN S\_ 



STADTVIERTEL OER EINGE60RENEN BEI YOKOHOMA 



37 



interior mostly on the backs of horses. These pack-animals are rarely 
shod with iron shoes ; the hoofs b'eing protected by straw-matting fas- 
tened -with straw-strings. These shoes seldom last more than half a 
day, when new ones must be attached, the driver generally carrying a 
large supply in case of emergency. In cities the iron shoe is in gen- 
eral use. The average Japanese, male or female, wears no shoes. 
Straw-sandals, or wooden pattens (pieces of wood shaped like the sole of 
a shoe; some having strips from two to four inches in height attached to 
the bottom), held to the feet by means of a cord passed between the 
first and second toes, are generally worn. European shoes have been 
adopted by those wearing European clothes. The stockings are made 
mitten-like, with a separate place for the big toe to make room for the 
shoe-cord. Stockings or feet-coverings are in many instances totally 
dispensed with. Even during cold weather, with snow on the ground 
six inches deep, fully one-half of the people wear nothing on their feet 
but sandals or pattens. In other words : they virtually tramp around 
barefooted. 

In the use of intoxicating drinks the Japanese are not behind 
their foreign brethren. The most popular beverage is called " saki." 
It is a liquor distilled from rice and very pleasant to the taste, but 
certain in its effects when taken in too great quantities. 

New-Year's day, which falls on the first of January, is the 
principal holiday, and is celebrated by everybody. The whole of 
Japan is drunk on this day. It is an old custom dating back hun- 
dreds of years and is observed by most of the Japanese. Even our 
hotel boys went out on a jollification. Nothing would stop them. 
They simply laughed at the threats of discharge made by the proprietor. 
They returned in the evening in time for dinner, gloriously happy. 

The natives, when under the influence of liquor, have one re- 
deeming quality. They do not become boisterous or quarrelsome, nei- 
ther will they venture outdoors on the streets, until the effects of 



*-\ 



L 



r~ 



38 



the drinking have passed away. It is therefore a very rare occurrence 
to meet an intoxicated man. 

On New- Years day the great Mikado gave a banquet to the 
" Princes of the blood/' the counsellors, and the representatives of the 
foreign nations. On that occasion he made the following brief and 
remarkable (?) speech : 

" I hereby celebrate the New- Year. It gives me great pleasure 
to be able to meet and entertain the foreign representatives and the 
ministers of state." 

During this banquet the French and Chinese ministers 
exchanged no words, dispensing, indeed, with most of the courtesies 
usual on such occasions. In fact, all they did was to stare at each 
other. There was very little interest manifested in Japan as to the 
result of the Franco-Chinese imbroglio. The whole affair was 
considered a failure. The main damage done' was to business, which 
was exceedingly dull Avhile hostilities lasted. 

The complaints of the Eastern merchants were loud and deep, 
and numerous petitions were sent to the diiferent governments pray- 
ing them to intercede, and have the difficulties adjusted, because a 
prolongation of the same would result in total ruin of all business. 

Among those who have visited both countries the opinion pre- 
vails that the Japanese are intellectually inferior to the Chinese and 
that they are not reliable. A " Jap" when in the possession of a few 
dollars is liable to leave his employer at any minute, no matter how re- 
sponsible or important his position, and go out among the boys and 
have a good time. He will not return to work until his supply of 
money is exhausted. For this reason many of the Japanese steamers 
and warehouses employ Chinese. But taken as a whole the Japs are 
kind, good, jolly fellows. They are happy and contented whether 
possessed of wealth or not. On the other hand the Chinese seem to 
care for nothing but the acquirement of money and are never so 



~) 



.39 



happy" as when they can jingle with gold or silver, -which" they hoard 
with a miserly selfishness that is disgusting. 

In the coloring of photographs, the manufacture of porcelain, 
inlaying of metals and tempering steel and sword and knife blades the 
Japanese excel the world. For beauty, originality of design and fine 
workmanship their famous embroideries cannot be equaled anywhere. 

Before bidding adieu to this part of Japan I will endeavor to 
describe the guides and servants in our employ, during our sojourn in 
Yokohama and Tokio : 

Upon our arrival at the Grand Hotel we secured the services of 
a young Japanese in the capacity of guide and servant. His name was 
Toya; he had distinct Japanese features, but on the whole was a very 
good-looking fellow. His English was not of the very best, but with 
considerable guess-work and imagination on our part we generally suc- 
ceeded in understanding him. We had not the slightest cause to com- 
plain of his work until New- Years day, when we granted him leave of 
absence. "We never saw him sober again. He reported at the hotel on 
the second and third of January ; on both occasions he was decidedly 
under the influence of " saki." The manager forbade him the hotel, 
and we were forced to discharge him. After this we never got to see 
him again and we were informed by some of his friends that he was 
ashamed to show his face. Upon the recommendation of the hotel 
proprietors we then engaged Kanako and Thora, both thoroughbred 
" Japs." The former was slighter in figure than Toya, being less than 
five feet in height and perhaps one hundred pounds in weight, with 
the same marked Japanese features. 

He spoke English very fluently, and therefore rendered us ex- 
cellent services as guide and interpreter. He, too, occasionally in- 
vested some of his surplus cash in " saki," but never presented himself 
to us ' under the influence.' 

Thofa, who had charge of our rooms and at meal-times waited 
on us at the table, bore a striking resemblance to a North American 



40 



Indian. His face, color, and general bearing indicated decided Indian 
origin, but still he was a full-blood Japanese. His knowledge of En- 
glish was about on a par with that of Toya. He was a good and faith- 
ful servant and gave us the best of satisfaction. In our rambles 
through Tokio,Katsu, a diminutive inhabitant of the land of the rising 
sun, who hardly tipped the beam at seventy-five pounds, accompanied us. 
He was in every respect Kanako's equal, was acquainted with every 
nook and crook in the great Japanese capital, acd made it his special duty 
to see that we would not miss any of the sights. He informed us that 
cats, dogs, rats, and mice, with the exception of the white mice species, 
were a daily article of food among the poorer classes. This was also 
substantiated by several Japanese officials who frequently visited the 
hotel. They had not the least hesitation in stating that the consump- 
tion of these animals was as great, proportionally, in Japan as in China, 
although they are not as publicly exposed for sale. — 

It gives mc pleasure to here mention Mr. Christiansen, the 
steward of the Grand Hotel, and Mr. Henriques, the proprietor of the 
Yokohama livery stables, who arranged for and accompanied us on many 
enjoyable excursions into the surrounding country, upon which occasions 
Mr. Henriques would insist on furnishing his fine Philadelphia carri- 
age and his best span of horses free of charge. Mr. Christiansen has 
quite a romantic history, he is an American of Danish extraction, every 
inch a gentleman, and a jolly and wholesouled companion. Born 
near Flensburg in Denmark about forty years ago, he ran away from 
home and went to sea when quite young, serving at various times on 
Danish, German, English and American men-of-war and merchant-men. 
At one time he was paymaster on the " Palos," a ship commanded by 
Captain Nelson, our fellow-traveler on the steamer " Rio Janeiro." 

On several occasions he rose to the rank of captain in the mer- 
chant service and at one time Dame Fortune smiled on him to the ex- 
tent of making him master of his own ship. 

" I felt myself an independently rich man at that time," said 



v^- 



j£? '-^ .- i£ # 




i)tt«lHBpB^M- 



ijt tT ii Bt . j &f*^iwcay;f^?Y T* 



CHINESE LADIES AhD CHi.3 



CHUESIoCHE DAMEN UND KIND 



r 



41 



"^ 



Mr. Christiansen, " still I was not satisfied and lost all in my eager 
desire to accumulate more." Before his employment at the Grand 
Hotel he had been in the seal-hunting service, where at times he would 
" strike it very rich," but would again sacrifice all in some new venture. 

Several years ago he was married to a young Japanese lady, of a 
family of rank,and highly educated. Her history is even more roman- 
tic than that of her husband. She was the daughter of an officer 
ranking highly in the army of the Tycoon. Shortly before the close 
of the revolution of 1868 her father was taken prisoner and sub- 
sequently executed. Her mother had previously succumbed to the 
inevitable. She was therefore left an orphan when scarcely three 
years old. 

Fortunately a kind and benevolent English lady, who acciden- 
tally heard of her pitiful situation, adopted the waif. Later on this 
good lady removed to Shanghai, where her adopted child was educated 
in a catholic nunnery. From there they went to South America, 
and after an absence of about twelve years they returned to Japan, 
where the foster-mother soon died, leaving her adopted daughter a sec- 
ond time alone in the wide world. 

She soon found employment, however, as governess in a respec- 
table English family and took up her home with them in Yokohama. 
Here Christiansen chanced to meet his wife for the first time ; they 
learned to love each other, and after a brief courtship were married. 
They live happily together, and their little baby boy has as bright a 
pair of eyes, as tawny a skin, as black a head of hair, and as sound 
a pair of lungs as ever a Japanese half-breed or full-blood baby 
possessed. 



V. 



J 



r~ 



Chapter IV. 



Japan, (CnntinuEd.) 



v, « J 




ll the books on Japan, that I have read, ac- 
cord her a very prominent place among the 
beautiful countries in the world. In my 
opinion they do not exaggerate, for, from 
what I have seen, it is a most delightful, 
a most charming land, with every available inch of soil under the 
highest cultivation. The people occupying this beautiful island do not 
quite reach the standard of modern civilization, yet they can boast of 
considerable culture. They lack few, if any, of the attributes that 
go to make up good citizens. 

Although heathens or idolators in the eyes of the so-called Chris- 
tian world, they can nevertheless be cited as models worthy of being 
imitated by several of our highly enlightened nations, as far as honesty, 
diligence, politeness, sociability, and trustworthiness are concerned. 

As in all countries, petty offenses frequently occur, but the more 
heinous crimes are committed very, very rarely. The laws against all 
crimes are most severe, and within the last few years there has been a 
tendency to have them rigidly enforced. 

Formerly bribery could be and was resorted to, but I have been 



45 



46 



~\ 



informed that at present it is next to an impossibilty to corruptly in- 
fluence any of the officials. If it be true, as the Japanese papers state, 
that the present ruling power is determined to purify that branch of 
the government intrusted with the execution of the laws, then Japan 
has taken a great stride in the direction of progress, from which she 
will surely reap the greatest benefits. 

During our visit the " Jiji Shimpo," one of the leading Jap- 
anese newspapers, published a long and ably written editorial on the 
subject of religious liberty. It advocated in strong terms the placing 
of the Christian religion on the same basis as the Shinto and Buddhist 
religions. It claimed that Japan is not pledged to any religion, and 
that the Government does little or nothing toward the support of the 
temples. The whole outlay for religious purposes in the preceding 
year amounted to scarcely $150,000. 

The " Jiji Shimpo " predicted for Japan, in the event of a law 
granting religious liberty, a new era of peace, happiness, and prosperity. 
This editorial created great consternation among those in power, but 
the people appeared to take kindly to it. It was a bold move of the 
"Jiji Shimpo." Lately the government has taken a very liberal position 
on the question of religion, which was perhaps brought about by the 
"Jiji Shimpo," and which means that henceforth no obstacles shall be 
placed in the way of the missionaries in their work of disseminating 
Christian doctrines. 

The Japanese government itself struck a heavy blow at the re- 
ligion of the empire by issuing a proclamation abolishing the " Religi- 
. ous Department " of the state. This act places all religions on an equal 
footing, and is an onward stride toward freedom for the people. . . - 

Japan has during the last ten years, but especially during the 
last three years, made great progress in the work of educating her 
people. Throughout the empire free schools have been established, 
which are largely attended by the Japanese youth. High-schools are 
numerous in the larger cities and the opportunities offered are eagerly 



J 



r 



47 

sought for. The great university of Tokio has a world-wide reputation. 
Besides the free-schools there are many private seminaries under the 
supervision of native or European teachers or missionaries. 

The teachers in the primary schools are mostly natives, but in 
the high-schools and the university many European and American 
professors and tutors occupy the chairs. But the Japanese gov- 
ernment is gradually filling the places of these aliens with natives 
who have either acquired a sufficient knowledge at home, or who have 
returned from Europe or America, whither they were sent, the wards of 
the government, to perfect their education. 

!Not many years will elapse at the present rate of progress before 
Japan will be in a position to dispense with all foreign teachers and be 
fully capable of taking good care of all her interests without any out- 
side help. 

The arts and sciences are also receiving their full share of atten- 
tion. Many institutions devoted to the study of mining, engineering, 
surveying, and agriculture, and a military and naval academy are sup- 
ported by the government. 

At Yokosuka, near Yokohama, are the extensive government 
ship-yards and docks, where large ironclads and other men-of-war, to- 
gether with all their equipments, are built by Japanese mechanics, under 
the superintendency of Japanese cadets, who, having acquired the requis- 
ite knowledge at the naval college, are drafted into the service. At the 
arsenal, which is also situated here, the small arms and the small ord- 
nance, together with all the ammunition are manufactured. The heavy 
ordnance of from 12 to 36 tons are imported from Europe. 

During our stay in Japan there was at one time great danger of 
war between Corea and Japan on account of some outrage perpetrated 
by the former country upon the latter. When the news was published 
that China would espouse the cause of Corea, the excitement ran high. 
The Chinese and Japanese are not the best of neighbors. Thousands 

" ■ ■ i, 



48 



~N 



and thousands of men from one end of the empire to the other volun- 
teered their services. 

From the wrestlers, and there are a great many of them, much 
was expected. Chosen from the strongest and most active men in the 
country, they were supposed to have the ability of becoming good sol- 
diers. Wrestling might be called the national amusement of Japan. The 
wrestlers travel in squads from place to place giving exhibitions which 
are well patronized by the natives. 

Their performances are meritorious. The men execute wonder- 
ful feats of strength and agility, they show great pluck and endurance, 
and display considerable science. Sorakichi, who has been posing in the 
United States for several years in the role of a Japanese champion, for- 
merly belonged to one of these troupes. Kanako, our guide, who 
claimed to be personally acquainted with Sorakichi, informed us that 
though Sorakichi had won many laurels and his remarkable feats of 
strength had made for him a reputation reaching far beyond the empire, 
yet it was generally admitted that there were many wrestlers in Japan 
who were far superior to him. 

While at Tokio we took advantage of the opportunity and at- 
tended one of these wrestling matches, which was at that time going on 
between the members of a troupe composed of twelve wrestlers. It took 
place in a temporarily erected frail structure with primitive accommoda- 
tions for the audience. The attendance was large and the favorites were 
enthusiastically received. During a bout the excitement ran high. At 
times when a point was scored by either one of the contestants, the 
noise was perfectly deafening. Taken all in all the performance was 
highly interesting, and were it not for one feature, which was not on 
the programme, we would have enjoyed it hugely. 

The objectionable feature was this : In the course of a contest it 
frequently happens that one or both of the contestants receive a scratch 
or wound of some kind, which, as soon as the bout closes, subjects them 
to a thorough burning. A red-hot iron is always kept in readiness for 



r 



49 



this purpose. It is done, they say, to prevent the wound from festering. 
The wrestlers submit to this operation without the least sign of dis- 
tress — in fact, you cannot detect the slightest movement of a muscle 
while the iron is being applied. 

Some of these wrestlers were literally covered with scars, 
being an indelible proof of the great number of wounds and a correspond- 
ing number of scorchings they received in their endeavors to gain 
both fame and a living. 

Well, these brave wrestlers shortly after the alarm was sounded 
dispatched a large delegation to the mikado at Tokio, and authorized 
them to tender the emperor the services of the combined brotherhood of 
wrestlers in ease of war. This act would have proved their loyalty 
and patriotism, had they not in tendering their services stipulated the 
capacity in which they were willing to serve. 

Considering the physical development and training of these 
men; the dangers they encounter; the pains andjaches they suffer, while 
plying their vocation, a person would infer that they would demand of 
the mikado to be enrolled into a separate regiment or battalion, so that 
they might open the way for a triumphal march of the Japanese army 
to the Corean capital and proudly vindicate their country's honor. 

Everybody expected that they would ask the mikado to place 
them where there was the most danger, and all were therefore greatly 
disappointed when the news came from Tokio that the celebrated wrestlers 
had tendered their services to the mikado " as followers of the army in 
the capacity of baggage-carriers." For this reason the great wrestlers 
at once became the laughing-stock of all Japan. — 

The question of rapid transit in the cities and towns and their 
immediate surroundings was satisfactorily solved by a Christian mis- 
sionary not many years ago by the invention of the so-called jin- 
riksha (jiniriksha) or 'riksha, as it is generally called. This is nothing 
more nor less than an extra large and strong two-wheeled baby -buggy, 
as I have previously stated. On good, level roads, for short dis- 



J 



>v 



50 



tances, one man can draw the same ; but, when long journeys are to be 
made, or when bad and hilly roads are to be encountered, an assistant 
must be engaged, who either hitches himself in front of the man in the 
shafts or pushes the vehicle from the rear. 

These 'rikshas are very comfortable and exceedingly convenient. 
Although the original intention was that each 'riksha should carry but 
one person, it is a common occurrence to see two, three, and even more 
persons, generally natives, in one of them, and tugged along by a 
single man. 

This invention was a great blessing to thousands, and tens of 
thousands of the poorer classes, as it gave them the means of 
earning a living. The number of people employed in this way is 
very large. 

Tokio, although supplied with considerable street-car accommo- 
dations, boasts of having over twenty -five thousands 'rikshas, which give 
employment to fully forty thousand men, counting only those who are 
directly engaged in operating the vehicles. Yokohama claims to have 
from three to fonr thousand of these buggies. There is scarcely a town 
in the whole empire where they cannot be found. 

In traveling on these 'rikshas remarkably fast time is made, even 
when great distances are to be covered. To visit the "Daibutz," which 
is about fifteen miles distant from Yokohama, we took a carriage part 
of the way, and the balance of the distance, about six miles overland, 
was traveled in 'rikshas, each managed by two strong men. Although 
the roads from this point were very bad, being decidedly muddy and 
hilly the greater part of the way, our men started on a good trot and 
kept up the gait without a single intermission, until they had landed us 
at our destination. Our return trip was made in the same manner, al- 
though we took another road which was about two miles longer. 

We were surprised at the remarkable powers of endurance of 
these men, the more so, as they did not appear in the least fatigued or 
exhausted. The 'riksha men are generally taken from the coolie ranks. 



^ 



">k 



51 



They must be strong, healthy, and fleet of foot. The service, although 
apparently not affecting them, is very severe. Their life is by no 
means an easy or a happy one, yet they are always cheerful and in 
good humor. 

The statue of Daibutz, the Buddhist God, to see which we 
made this journey, is the greatest curiosity of Japan. It is fully fifty 
feet in height. It is made of a metal, which closely resembles bronze, 
but the natives claim that nothing but copper, gold, and silver were 
used. 

The following statistics, taken from the " Chronicle and Direc- 
tory for China, Japan, the Philippines, etc.," published in Hong Kong, 
will give the reader a general idea of the Japanese government and 
country as it is and of the comparatively small foreign population : 

Total revenues from 1884—85, $75,982,969 ; liquor revenues 
alone, $16,879,462. 

In the year 1882 the elementary schools numbered 29,081 ; 
and the middle schools 172 ; besides there were 76 normal schools and 
colleges for special studies, such as law, medicine, mining, agriculture, 
and foreign languages ; and five high (female) schools. 

The value of the foreign trade in 1883 was : Imports, $27,848,- 
992 ; Exports, $35,709,066. 

Of this Yokohama controlled : Imports, $18,618,612 ; Exports, 
$25 691,215. 

The populations of Japanese cities in 1883 were : 

Nagasaki, 47, 412, including 95 British and 44 Americans ; 

Kobe (Hiogo), 54,421, 232 British, 48 Germans, and 33 Ameri- 
cans; 

Osaka, 300,662, 21 British, 54 Americans ; 

Tokio, 1,200,000; total foreign residents, including Chinese, 634; 

For Yokohama a population of over 100,000 is claimed, of 
which 595 are British, 253 Americans, 160 German, 109 French, 28 
Dutch, 35 Portuguese and 43 Russians, 




-*\ 



52 



On Monday, January 25th, having completed our arrangements, 
we were escorted to the steamer " Hiroshima Maru." At precisely 
4 o'clock in the afternoon the gong sounded, the engines were started, 
and we were off for China. We steamed south along the lovely eastern 
coast of Japan. 

The " Hiroshima Maru," a large and elegant sidewheel steamer, 
with spacious and comfortably furnished cabins, and a fine promenade 
deck, was commanded by Captain Wynne, an Englishman, who had 
been in the Japanese service for nearly 20 years. 

The mates and engineers were also English ; the steward and 
cooks Chinese; and the waiters and cabin-boys Japanese. Captain 
Wynne is a jolly good fellow, and owing to his sociable and kind 
disposition is highly esteemed by all who ever had occasion to sail 
with him. The first engineer, whom I should judge to have been 
about 45 3 r ears of age, was a curious mixture of wit and contrariness. 
The first quality he displayed to good advantage, when during his hours 
off, he would be seated in the center of our little circle on deck and 
relate to us the most incredible tales of both land and sea ; these tales 
would invariably make him laugh loudest and longest. His second 
quality would often break out most violently at meal-time. He was 
never satisfied with anything placed before him, and time and again 
he refused to touch the dishes brought him, at the same time cursing 
the cook and his aids in a subdued voice. He nevertheless managed 
to gratify his appetite, and when once away from the table, he would 
throw off his mask and be his natural self again. Captain Wynne, who 
would only smile at the engineer's misery, told us that this contrari- 
ness and loss of temper on the part of the engineer could be attributed 
to nothing more nor less than his intense aversion to everything 
that was Chinese. 

Among our traveling companions on the " Hiroshima Maru " 
was the Chinese Consul-General to Japan, with two wives and two 
little children, and a large retinue of servants. He was a man of me- 



U. 



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53 



dium height, decidedly fleshy, almost bordering on obesity. His skin 
was fair and the general expression of his face was pleasant. 

His knowledge of English was very limited, thus preventing us 
from entering into conversation with him. The engineer could never 
be induced to join us when the Consul-General was around. He would 
only cast a contemptuous look at him, murmur a deep curse, gnash his 
teeth, and hurriedly make himself scarce. 

On several occasions we had the great pleasure of seeing the 
wives of our distinguished fellow-traveler on deck. They hobbled 
out on the arms of their trusted servants, being unable to walk or 
stand alone, with their tiny feet, not larger than those of a newly-born 
babe, encased in the daintiest of slippers. The ladies were very small 
in figure, dressed in rich and gayly colored silks and their faces were 
decidedly handsome. 

The two children, both boys, aged respectively two and three 
years, where charming little fellows. They looked like large beautiful 
dolls. They where the favorities with nearly every one on board, 
only their father seemed to concern himself very little about them. 

In just thirty-six hours after leaving Yokohama we anchored 
before Kobe, the European settlement of Hiogo, the port and general 
distributing and shipping point for Osaka, Miako, Kioto, and the 
whole of Southern Japan. 

Upon our arrival the captain insisted on guiding us through the 
town. We availed ourselves of his invitation and spent an exceeding- 
ly pleasant day in his company. 

In the evening we repaired to the billiard-room of the Hiogo 
Hotel and whiled away the hours at the billiard table. It was here 
where the captain explained to us his fondness for old Scotch whiskey. 
Said he : "Years ago, when I was in the Australian trade, I was a 
continual sufferer with rheumatism which at times confined me to my 
bunk for weeks at a time. I was finally persuaded, at the instance of 
one of my particular companions, to take occasional stiff doses of old 



v_ 




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54 



Scotch whiskey, which he claimed had done excellent service in sev- 
eral cases where he had prescribed it. 

After taking this prescription for several days, I felt myself 
getting better and in a short time I was completely restored, and the best 
of it is that I have not had the slightest touch of it since that time. 
Now, is it a wonder that I love my old Scotch so dearly? Boy, 
boy, give me a little from the old bottle. What will you have, my 
friends?" and thus his story always ended. 

Kobe is one of the cleanest, if not the most cleanly town, in 
the whole world. The streets are as level as a parlor floor. Not a 
particle of dust or dirt is allowed to accumulate. Situated on the Suw- 
onada or Inland Sea, about ninety miles from the Pacific Ocean, with 
Hiogo and the surrounding islands, mountains, and sea, Kobe is first 
among the picturesque views of Japan. A passage through the Suwo- 
nada is the grandest and most beautiful sea voyage imaginable. This 
sea lies between the islands of Nippon, Kiusiu and Sikoke, extending 
from the Pacific Ocean to the Yellow Sea, a distance of over 500 miles 
and varies greatly in breadth. In this expanse of water some three 
thousand islands, formed no doubt by volcanic eruptions, are sprinkled 
about in inharmonious confusion. They are of all sizes and shapes, 
and most of them are inhabited and cultivated to a greater or less 
extent. 

They make up a scene wonderfully beautiful. Near the western 
end of the sea lies Nagasaki, the most southern port of Japan. It is 
built in a semi-circle around the extreme end of the harbor, and in 
point of location rivals the picturesque scenery of Kobe and Hiogo. 
Many travelers accord to it the distinction of having the finest view 
of Japan. 

At the entrance of the harbor lies the small island of Papen- 
berg, or Ta Kaboko, which has a melancholy history. Toward the end 
of the sixteenth century, at which time the Jesuits had made great 
progress in the introduction of the Christian religion into this part of 



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V. 



55 



Japan, orders were given by the government to exterminate all who 
professed this new religion. A bloody persecution followed. Thousands 
of Christians fled to this island as the last place of refuge. They all 
perished. Those who escaped the sword were driven into the sea. These 
victims have since been canonized as martyrs at Rome. Some histori- 
ans state that when the refugees had assembled on the island the gov- 
ernment offered them the alternative of returning to their old faith and 
be allowed to live, or of suffering death. Faithful to their new religion 
they chose death rather than renounce their adopted faith. 

We bade Japan farewell on Saturday afternoon, January 31, at 
4 o'clock. In a few short hours we were out on the Yellow Sea, steam- 
ing in a direct course for Shanghai, China. 



■^ 



Chapter V. 



At Shanghai, (China.) 



57 




ftee crossing the "Whang Hai, or Yellow 
Sea, the water of which, as the name indi- 
cates, is of a muddy, yellow color, attributa- 
ble to the washings from the shores of the 
■cj|j§l fe3S ? 3SS| great Yang-tse-Kiang River, which empties 
into it, we landed at Shanghai on Monday, February 2nd, 1885, at 
three o'clock in the afternoon, having made the voyage from Yokohama 
in exactly seven days, including stoppages. Forty-seven hours was 
the time consumed in the passage from Nagasaki. We immediately re- 
paired to the Astor House, where comfortable quarters were as- 
signed us. 

This hotel, which is under American management, is splen- 
didly located about a square from the banks of the Whang Poo 
river, in Hong Kew, the American quarter, and within a few 
minutes walk of all the prominent Avharves, banks, public build- 
ings, and the business center of the city. 

We were not long in securing a competent Chinese guide, who 
was given to understand that he would be well paid, and that in return 
we expected his continuous and undivided attention. The Chinese are 



V. 



59 



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more cunning and treacherous than the Japanese. Therefore we took 
the precaution to impress our guide with the idea that we understood 
his natural proclivities and would stand no foolishness. 

He was evidently influenced by our first interview, for we never 
had any trouble with him. On the contrary, he always stood up for us 
manfully. 

Two hours after landing we started, accompanied by the guide, 
whose name by the way was Wong Kwai Ching, for the native city — 
Shanghai proper — which is surrounded by a stone wall from twelve 
to fifteen feet in height, varying in thickness. 

The gates guarding the entrances, which are seven in number, 
are massive wooden structures and, being intended for protection only, 
perfectly plain. The main entrance through which we passed is near 
the French quarter and is a sort of a tunnel about 30 feet in length and 
protected by an inner and an outer gate. 

The walls are said to be three and a half miles in circuit and 
were erected in the latter part of the sixteenth century during the Jap- 
anese invasion. As we entered he city we were greeted by such a crowd 
of beggars, as cannot be found in the worst localities of the United 
States. The street we first came to would not even compare with an alley 
in Cincinnati. Not more than from six to eight feet in width it was lined 
on both sides with shops, to go into which is not safe for a stranger, 
unless he be accompanied by a reliable native. 

Immediately on entering the gate our delicate nasal organs snif- 
fed a stench that was perfectly nauseating. The sight was revoltingly 
disgusting and baffles description. Never would I have believed that 
human beings could exist in such a place and under such circumstances. 
The passage-way, for it could not be called a street, because a vehicle 
could not enter, was swarming with beggars, dirty, ragged, greasy and 
diseased. 

"What a horrible spectacle they did present ! These unfortunate 
creatures, most of them maimed or crippled, were covered with sores 



L 



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cm»EseT£Mnt /-<? qthcai 



SINGAPORE 



61 



and lay crowded on the ground, piteously beseeching the passers-by for 
aid. No one stops or has a word to say. In case a person is charitably 
inclined the pittance is tossed to the ground. Then there is many a 
scramble, and these beggars fight as to who shall secure the contribu- 
tion. No one will hand them anything for fear of infection. The very 
air seemed contaminating and we urged our coolies to hurry on. 

The cries and waitings of some of these beggars were actually 
heart-rending. They have the appearance of being on the verge of 
starvation. Whether this is real or assumed is hard to say, although 
no doubt much misery and poverty exists. Of course, deception is 
practiced, as it is well known that "for ways that are dark and tricks 
that are vain " John Chinaman is very peculiar. 

As we progressed matters grew worse. We could not become 
accustomed to the terrible sights. The whole city had the appearance 
of one mammoth pest-house or infirmary, without one redeeming or 
attractive feature, except a number of beautiful stores, whose inside 
contrasted strikingly with the filth and misery outside. 

In our rambles we did not find a single street over eight feet 
wide. We had taken the precaution to each hire a sedan-chair, borne 
by two coolies, and how glad we were of it ! There were no side- walks, 
no pavements, and no sewerage whatever for the city, consequently 
the people could do nothing but throw all offal into the street. 

During our journey through the city we were continually fol- 
lowed by a large crowd of inquisitive natives, whose demonstrations at 
times were anything but friendly. Our whole party occasionally felt 
uncomfortable. We really expected trouble and had arranged to de- 
fend ourselves, but happily it was not necessary. 

Chinatown in San Francisco, which has the unsavory reputation 
of being the dirtiest and filthiest locality in the whole United States, 
is cleanly and attractive compared with native Shanghai. It is far be- 
yond my power to give a true picture of the disgusting condition of 
this Chinese city. 



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V-. 



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62 



Five full hours were consumed in making the rounds and criti- 
cally examining Shanghai. The only points of interest and sights 
worthy of attention were the numerous Buddhist temples, filled with 
the most horrible and repulsive idols. Many of these gods, made by 
the hands of men, are supposed to be the dwelling-places of the spirits 
of priests, rulers, leaders and teachers, all of whom departed this life 
years and years ago, and in whose honor everlasting fires are kept burn- 
ing continually. Woe to the attending priest that would either inten- 
tionally, or unintentionally, allow one of these fires to burn out. 

The priests having charge of these temples are the most impor- 
tunate set of beggars to be found anywhere. "While viewing and ex- 
amining the many weirdly interesting objects, we were continually be- 
sieged by a score of these beings who requested, nay demanded, and 
very impertinently too, that we should turn over to them a portion of 
the contents of our purses. During the five hours of our wanderings 
we visited six or eight temples, in all of which we were treated in the 
same way, the priests seeming to tolerate visitors and sight-seers simply 
for the sake of robbing them mercilessly. 

By the time we had reached the last temple we intended to visit, 
our supply of change had dwindled to less than thirty cents, which we 
passed to one of the priests. His associates were allowed to go empty- 
handed. This was indeed a sorry move on our part. No sooner did 
they realize that no compensation would be forthcoming than they 
commenced to protest as only a Chinaman can. 

With no control whatever over their tempers these priests roared 
and cursed and gesticulated like madmen. We could not understand a 
word said, but appreciated, without the assistance of the guide, that 
they were, to say the least, somewhat displeased. Though at times they 
made demonstrations as if threatening personal violence, the whole af- 
fair was so ludicrously funny that we enjoyed it. However, we neither 
laughed nor smiled lest they might become more incensed and do us 
bodily harm. 



r 



63 



Our guide was a rough and ready sort of a fellow, similar to our 
home roustabouts, and did not seem to have either fear of or respect 
for the priests. As a matter of fact we thought him rather sacrilegious 
for the manner in which he acted toward and spoke to these priestly 
robbers. He faced them boldly and delivered himself of an harangue 
which seemed to impress them greatly. He either reasoned with or 
defied them, but whatever it was it had the desired effect. We 
were temporarily relieved. "With Wong Kwai Ching guarding the 
rear we beat a hasty retreat before the priests could recover from their 
surprise. 

Outside of the temple we found the same crowd that had been 
following us since our entrance into the city, only largely augmented 
by the addition of a number of new recruits awaiting our arrival. As 
soon as we presented our faces they began jeering at us and in every 
way imaginable showed their hatred and displeasure. They kept run- 
ning around, jabbering like a lot of idiots, and appeared as though 
they were trying to work themselves into a frenzy. 

From this time on until we passed out of the gates we con- 
stantly feared an assault upon us. When we reached the outer gates 
we breathed easier and congratulated one another on our safe escape. 

European Shanghai, which is divided into French, English and 
American Shanghai, is undoubtedly the great business center of the 
Far East, not even excepting Hong Kong, although the latter is, on 
account of her more favorable location, yearly visited by more ships 
than the former. There are many large and magnificent buildings, 
prominent among them being those of the British Consulate, several of 
the banks and the Shanghai Club. These are perfectly grand. 

During the 'season' society is as much agitated in Shanghai as it 
is in London or elsewhere. The strict rules of etiquette are carefully ob- 
served and a life of gaiety and fashion is led. Many of the English 
blooded aristocracy are stationed in Shanghai, and they lay aside none 




64 

of their old manners, customs, and laws. Their receptions, dinners, 
soirees, etc., are therefore very swell. 

The commerce of Shanghai is enormous. The imports and ex- 
ports for the year 1884, as the official records show, amounted to over 
$180,000,000. 

Fully four-fifths of this business is in the hands of British sub- 
jects, whose government does everything in its power to further their 
interests. 

There are also a few American houses who do a fair share of 
the remaining business. 

Ships with an aggregate tonnage of 4,000,000 anchored oif this 
port during the year 1884. I am sorry to say that a very small per- 
centage of these ships flew the American colors. 

In the East England reigns supreme. The United States are 
scarcely recognized, and indeed, they occupy anything but an enviable 
position. Would that the United States Congress could view with its 
own eyes the true state of affairs and thereby be convinced of the in- 
ferior role played by the " Greatest of all Nations." Perhaps Congress 
would then decide to take up this all-important question and even- 
tually come to the conclusion to appropriate some of the surplus mil- 
lions toward providing for both a war and mercantile navy, thus im- 
proving our foreign service, and thereby stimulating and furthering the 
interests of our export commerce. 

There is no concealing the fact that under the present miserable 
supply of vessels the United States cannot compete with any of the 
great nations of the earth, and the sooner this point is fully realized 
by the people of the United States, the sooner their cry for relief 
which must necessarily follow is favorably acted upon, the better will 
it be for them. 

It is an established fact, beyond any per-adventure, that the 
United States will sooner or later be compelled to enter the world's 
market for the purpose of disposing of her surplus manufactures and . 

^ J 



65 



the products of her fertile soil, and she must be prepared for this condi- 
tion of affairs. 

The best picture and the most accurate and truthful description 
of the Chinese, their character, and religion, can be gleaned from the 
following article on " Chinese shams," from the pen of the Reverend 
Geo. L. Mason, of Ning-Po, which appeared in the January number 
of " The Star of the East," a representative missionary paper pub- 
lished in Shanghai : 

" "Whether or not falsehood is universal in all heathen lands, it 
certainly is the commonest vice of the Chinese. And it is not thought 
to be a vice. In quarrelling men accuse each other of all sins, except 
lying. It is no insult to be called a liar, for they do not expect from 
each other either truth or sincerity. Falsehood is only wrong when it 
clearly injures another. Polite conversation abounds in hollow com- 
pliments and insincere self-depreciation. To ask Mr. Sing where he 
lives, you must ask him where his mansion is ; and he will reply that 
his hovel is in such a place. Even the sign-boards are mendacious. 
Over an opium-den one is sure to see characters of noble meaning, such 
as "righteousness " or " virtue." Men and things try to seem what 
they are not. Vegetables and fruit are water-soaked. The butcher's 
pork is inflated with air. Apparently solid walls are hollow. Not a 
few rich people dress in rags to escape the attention of tax-gatherers 
and hungry borrowers. The poor on New Year's Day and at wed- 
dings shine in borrowed silks. A string of one hundred cash never 
contains more than ninety-nine ; in the north, indeed, fifty cash are po- 
litely called one hundred. You receive a present, but it is understood 
that an equal or greater value be returned. 

" Chinese military power is a ludicrous pretense. Powder, noise, 
and more banners than bayonets make an army. They speak of a man 
as killed by thunder, not lightning. A general reports that one thous- 
and troops are garrisoning a place ; really there are only several hun- 
dred ; though on inspection days the full number is sometimes made up 



V^ 



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66 



by hiring for the occasion a lot of the riff-raff from tea-sheds, and 
clothing them in uniforms kept for the purpose. A young Chinaman, 
formerly a student at Harvard, now in training for the army, writes me 
lamenting his condition. He says : " I do not care to be a mandarin ; 
for to be successful in government employ, one must lie, natter, and be 
dishonest ; these I cannot do." The political weakness of China is not 
her ignorance, or her poverty, nor her inefficient armament, — the latter 
is improving, — bat the most utter lack of truthful men among rulers 
or people. The official bulletin, the so-called " Pekin Gazette," is far 
from being a guileless record of facts. It is a political document only 
to be believed when there is good reason for believing. 

"The judicial system is a cruel fraud. No one expects justice. 
Mexican dollars are the only arguments that avail. Perhaps the jud- 
ges are slightly excusable, for it is next to impossible to get at the bot- 
tom of facts. Witnesses are severely flogged to make them tell the 
truth, or a lie, as the case may be. Plaintiff and defendant strive to 
see which can invent the more lies. One of our church-members was 
arrested for cutting down a tree which another man claimed ; but the 
charge against him in the account was for stealing twelve trees ! If a 
man is sentenced to five-hundred stripes, the castigator, for a considera- 
tion, will go through all the motions of whipping, however, inflicting 
no pain. But woe to the offender who has no money ! He is beaten 
in earnest. 

" Chinese education is a sham, — so say experienced educators 
like Doctor Mateer. Even when the literary degree has not been 
bought with dollars, their education at best is a cramming with words. 
To discover truth is not the aim. To remember is everything, to think 
is nothing. A twelve-year-old school-girl in the West knows more 
of natural science and general history than the average Chinese " mas- 
ter of arts." 

" Most of Chinese religion in its practical working is a conscious 
sham. The people readily laugh at the gods. Buddhist priests un- 



1 



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A 



blushingly say that they are priests in order to eat rice. No one asks, 
" What is true ? " only, " What is the custom ? " Their much-lauded 
filial piety is a delusion. No matter how undutiful to the living father, 
if the son only burns incense at regular periods, offers tin-foil dollars, 
and food to the dead father, he is reckoned a filial son. 

" But we must not think the Chinese irreclaimably untruthful, 
and their institutions all sham. The worship of false gods for ages 
has honey-combed character and customs with falsehood. But there is 
something solid, after all, for the gospel to work upon, else their cus- 
toms and institutions could not for milleniums resist the shocks of 
time. We know not a few Chinamen who have received the love of 
the truth, and whose characters and lives are notably different from the 
heathen around them. Therefore we rejoice, and toil on." 



V^ 



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♦ 












. Chapter VI. 



In and ornund Hnnn Knnn. 



69 



■~\ 




ebbtjaey 5th, 1885, saw us take leave of 
Shanghai. At S o'clock in the afternoon the 
steamer Kow Shing weighed anchor and our 
„J>f' party was on the way to Hong Kong. The 
Kow Shing, a new and elegantly equipped ves- 
sel, was under the command of Captain Webster, and was in the ser- 
vice of the " Messageries Maritimes," (French Mail). She flew the 
English colors, however, and as a matter of fact was an English ves- 
sel, chartered by the " Messageries Maritimes." 

This was done in order to overcome the obstacles in the way of 
the steamers carrying the French flag, owing to the Franco-China war. 
Shanghai was blockaded against the French government and the steam- 
ship company was compelled to adopt this plan in order to deliver their 
freights and mails at Shanghai and Yokohama. 

Captain Webster's reputation as an officer is beyond epiestion, 
and as a man and companion any one who has ever come in contact 
with him will bear testimony as to his worth. Our three days' voyage 
from Shanghai to Hong Kong was an exceedingly enjoyable one. We 



71 



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72 



were royally entertained. We passed Foo-Chow, which had been bom- 
barded by the French shortly before and sailed within sight of Amoy. 

The weather was exceedingly fine and the sea was as smooth 
as glass. There were only two cabin passengers besides ourselves. 
Both were residents of Shanghai and were on a business trip. The 
one was a broker and the other a cloth -merchant. They certainly 
deserve to be called the champion scandal-mongers of China. From 
the time they first appeared in the morning until the' hour they retired 
they did nothing but discuss other people's aifairs. Their gossip exten- 
ded to everybody and anybody and included social, commercial, political, 
and religious matters. It seemed as though no one could escape their 
criticism and comment. They actually became offensive. The innocent 
maiden, the honored mother, the respected father, the son, the daugh- 
ter, and even the wife came in for a share of the attention of the gos- 
sipping, heartless wretches. They were old enough to know better, 
too, both having the appearance of heads of families.- Some of the 
conversation overheard was scandalous in the extreme. 

We held ourselves aloof from them after a few hours acquain- 
tance, preferring the company and sea-yarns of Captain Webster. 
He was a jolly old tar and related the stories of many exciting boat ra- 
ces between Shanghai and Tien-tsin while the good steamer Kow Shing 
was in the " Tien-tsin trade." According to the captain's statements 
the Kow Shing came in " first best " every time and gained for herself 
the title of " the great invincible." 

The accommodations on the Kow Shing were first-class. 
The cabins were large and airy, the dining hall was elegantly furnished 
and the captain's private locker, to which we had free access, was 
stocked with the best growths of France and Italy, the choicest brews 
of England and Germany, and a well selected supply of the world-re- 
nowned American products of distillation. There was a plentiful sup- 
ply of good food, invitingly cooked, and nicely served. 



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The kitchen and dining-room personnel, all Chinese, was a fine 
set of men. They were far above the average, extremely accommodat- 
ing and skillful in preparing the various dishes, which were temptingly 
set before us on this voyage. Our appetites never forsook us, so that 
the Shanghai mutton and Japanese beef, better than which the Ameri- 
can markets produce none, were greatly relished. 

The cook, Yee Loi, soon discovered that this mutton and beef 
had a peculiar charm for us and he immediately entered into a contest 
with himself as to how many styles he could serve the same in. 
He received our grateful thanks and, of course, a more substantial 
recognition of his culinary skill. 

The crew, which Captain Webster had shipped at Tien-tsin, was 
a well and carefully selected body of men. They were schooled in sea- 
manship and finely drilled, so that in case of emergency they would be 
found reliable and trustworthy. 

A. peculiarity of the Chinese character is the extreme clannish- 
ness, which seems to govern everybody, more or less, in their actions 
and bearing toward each other. Whenever and wherever Chinese from 
different sections of the empire come together discord prevails. Such 
a thing as smooth sailing or harmonious action is out of the question. 
They are continually quarreling and bickering, and will neglect their 
work, however important, to wage a war of words. 

It is by no means an unusual thing to find them doggedly fight- 
ing. They will not harmonize under any circumstances, and their ha- 
tred for one another sometimes results in serious conflicts. 

In shipping crews for sea-going vessels the most important con- 
sideration is to secure all the necessary men from one and the same 
town, so as to avoid any disturbances, for such will positively follow if 
this rule is not complied with. 

" I wouldn't have a mixed crew under any consideration," said 
Captain Webster, who had been in the Eastern seas for many years ; 



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" for you cannot sail a vessel successfully with men hailing from dif- 
ferent sections." 

A Tien-tsin man will never be friendly toward a native of 
Shanghai or Amoy, and the employment of Canton and Swatow men 
in the same service will not bring about satisfactory results. Their an- 
imosity toward a native not from their own section of the country is 
only equalled by their extreme dislike for all foreigners. 

On the morning of the third day out from Shanghai wc hove in 
sight of the numerous small islands that surround Hong Kong. This 
part of the China Sea closely resembles the charming Suwonada of 
Japan in that it is studded with these small, beautiful islands molded 
into the most exquisite shapes. 

Bright sunshine and a clear, blue sky greeted our entrance into 
the narrow passages, presenting a scenic panorama as gorgeous, delight- 
ful and fascinating as only nature can produce. The main entrance into 
the harbor of Hong Kong in coming from the north is very narrow 
and exceedingly dangerous. 

Until within a very short distance it seemed impossible for even 
a very small steamer to pass through. As we drew near, the glistening 
golden streak grew wider and we soon had safely steamed through 
the narrow channel and anchored in the harbor of Hong Kong, 
alongside of the large steamer of the French Messageries Maritimes 
" Djemnah," bound for Marseilles, and ready to leave that same after- 
noon at three o'clock. 

It was just 10 o'clock when we dropped anchor, having made 
the voyage in sixty-seven hours. 

The decks of the " Djemnah " presented a most picturesque ap- 
pearance. They were covered with hundreds of French soldiers. 
The Turcos and Zouaves from Algiers as well as the regular infantry 
and cavalry from " la belle France " in their varied and bright colored 
uniforms made up a pretty picture. 

The majority of them were invalids in immediate need of a 



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change of climate, in order to restore their shattered health. Many 
had been wounded in the different engagements which had shortly be- 
fore taken place in Tongking, against the Chinese. They were des- 
tined for home, there to receive the necessary nursing and medical 
treatment. 

The view of Hong Kong with the great Victoria Peak in the 
background, together with the harbor iu which fully a hundred ships, 
flying the flags of almost every nation of the world, together with the 
thousands of small native craft were anchored, was pretty in the ex- 
treme. The harbor is one of the finest in the world and has an area 
of ten square miles. 

We boarded a small Chinese boat, which closely resembled a 
Japanese sampan, and in a few minutes set foot in Hong Kong. The 
Hong Kong hotel, which is under the control of an American, Mr. 
Greeley, from Washington, D. C, to whom we had letters of recom- 
mendation, was overcrowded, so we put up at the " Victoria," which is 
managed by a Chinaman and an East Indian Parsee. 

Here we were ushered into surprisingly elegant quarters. We 
occupied two large front rooms on the second floor, facing Queen's 
Road, the main business thoroughfare. From the veranda, to which 
we had direct access from our rooms, the life and bustle of this city, 
one of the most interesting of towns, could be studied. We would sit 
for hours, never tiring of the strange transformation scenes which were 
unfolded before our eyes. 

Hong Kong is an English colony, upon which the mother coun- 
try has lavished enormous sums of money. Victoria is the correct 
name of the city proper, although it is seldom used — Hong Kong 
answering for both city and island. 

The government buildings and the barracks are large and im- 
posing structures. In the European quarter there are many fine busi- 
ness houses and private residences. It has the appearance of a very 
wealthy and prosperous city. 



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~>v 



" The Happy Valley," which is charmingly located in a lovely 
dell about two miles from the center of the town, presents a striking 
and a curious combination. A number of cemeteries are located on 
one side of the public road and on the other side a race-course attracts 
attention. 

The public gardens are very large and beautiful. Almost the 
entire population of this Eastern metropolis congregates there every 
evening to enjoy the excellent music rendered by the fine and well- 
trained military bands. These concerts invariably open with the ren- 
dition of a military march, followed by lively dance-music, and occa- 
sional selections from operas, the whole concluding with the English 
national hymn : " God save the Queen." 

We ascended Victoria Peak, which is about 1774 feet high, and 
looms up directly back of the town. We did not walk or climb, but 
were carried up and down in sedan chairs, each manned with 
four Chinese coolies. We were Avell satisfied with our trip to the sum- 
mit, for the view of the surrounding country is very impressive. 

The native quarters of the city, containing about 150,000 inhab- 
itants are far superior to native Shanghai. The houses are larger, and 
the streets wider; the latter are kept clean under the strict super- 
vision of a competent board of health. Its general appearance is de- 
cidedly more cheerful than that of Shanghai. 

In the countless small boats lining the shore of the native quar- 
ter thousands upon thousands of families live and prosper. 

The following statistics will give an idea of the importance of 
Hong Kong : 

In 1883 the total population was about 160,000 ; the total Brit- 
ish and foreign population numbered 7,990 ; but the residents proper 
were returned at 3,040. 

The former figures include the naval and military establish- 
ments, and the temporary residents. 

The East Indians and others of mixed blood numbered 1,722. 



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Fully twenty-five thousand vessels with an aggregate tonnage 
of over 5,000,000 entered and cleared this port. 

Hong Kong is a free port. It is therefore impossible to give a 
correct return of its imports and exports, but it is claimed that they do 
not fall far behind those of Shanghai. 

The estimated revenues of the colony for 1885 were $1,212,188 ; 
and the expenditures $1,150,801. 



~J 




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Chapter VII. 



Frnm Hnnn Knnn tn Canton and Macsn 

end REturn. 



From Hnng Knng tn SinnapnrE. 



79 




notmnnmamiiiTB in r.nvinu 



pflUcken per KOKnamissF im r.Fvi nN 




CEYLON 8TAMPVENHER 
ncn gTFMPFnicPi-.Nccp in r.cvinu 



\ 



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v. 



'^L ROM Hong Kong wo made two excursions ; 

3F one to Canton and the other to Macao, 

'£&) The trip to Canton was made on the steam- 

W. ex "Powan," Captain Lefavour. The dis- 

8» ' , 

sr| tance is 88 miles. We did not venture far 

£? into the city, because of the advice given us 

by several fellow-passengers, who deemed it 

not altogether safe, owing to the uprising of the natives against the 

Europeans several years ago. The Canton river for miles and miles 

is covered with tens of thousands of small boats and Chinese junks, 

on which fully 300,000 people dwell and live. The total population 

is 1,600,000. 

We had a most delightful trip to and from Macao, on board 
the steamer " Kiukiang." Macao, the Portuguese colony, off the 
China coast, is about forty miles distant from Hong Kong, and offers 
some attractions to travelers and pleasure-seekers. 

The approach abounds in beautiful and picturesque scenery. 
The several forts on the hills give this city a decidedly war-like ap- 
pearance, though probably they could render very little effective ser- 
vice in case the city should be attacked by some of the large men 
of-war of the present day. 



81 



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on " * 



82 



At Hingkee's Hotel, facing the sea, we were well taken care 
of. The proprietor served an elegant meal and provided us with 
fine beds, for which he charged us a good price at the rate of $4 
each per day. 

We made a tour of the city, which is very hilly and has 
many narrow streets, in sedan-chairs, each carried by two Chinese 
coolies. 

The streets are kept very clean and many of the larger houses 
are gayly painted. The government buildings will not bear compari- 
son with those of Hong Kong. 

We were particularly impressed with the great beauty of the 
governor's residence and its immediate surroundings. There are also 
several old churches and a catholic cathedral, worth inspection. 

The extensive business formerly transacted here has, like that 
of Canton, been monopolized by Hong Kong. The city is therefore 
of very little consequence as a commercial point. At present 
the value of the total exports will not reach $1,000,000 annually. 

The population of Macao according to the latest returns is : 
Chinese 63,532 ; . Portuguese 4,476 ; other nationalities 78 : or a total 
of 68,086. 

A large part of the revenues of the government is derived 
from a gambling-game called Fan-tan, which flourishes here as undis- 
turbed as rouge et noir, roulette, and the other great games do at 
Monaco. 

Immense sums are yearly lost and won, mostly by strangers, 
who visit Macao for the sole purpose of trying their luck. " Globe- 
trotters," a name applied to travelers making a trip around the world, 
are as a general thing, easy victims for the Fan-tan sharks. Many are 
the tales told of the innocents who visited Macao to their sorrow. 

Although we entered fully a dozen of these resorts and our 
guide continually endeavored to persuade us to " try it only once," we 
could not be prevailed upon to embark in the venture. 



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After having fully satisfied our curiosity at Macao we returned 
to Hong Kong, where we immediately made preparation for our de- 
parture to Singapore. We secured passage on the English steamer 
" Achilles," of the Ocean Steamship Co. of London, called the " Blue 
Funnel Line." 

On February 12th, 1885, the day after our return from Macao, 
at 4 o'clock in the afternoon, we were agaiu steaming onward. Hap- 
pily our fears of meeting with a typhoon or simoon — a violent tornado 
or hurricane — which are quite frequent in the China Sea, and for which 
all sailors have a reverential respect, were not realized. Not even did 
a respectable storm gently indicate to us the probability of one of na- 
ture's terrible freaks bearing down upon us. 

With the exception of a few " white-caps," through which we 
passed directly after leaving the harbor of Hong Kong, and a few 
hours rolling in a slightly turbulent sea on the fourth day out, our 
passage was an extraordinarily fine one. 

During this sail we experienced for the first time the heat of 
the tropics. Especially at night we suffered from it severely in the 
small and badly ventilated cabins. Many of the officers and crew, as 
did also some of the passengers, slept on deck. We would have done 
likewise, had it not been for the ship-doctor, who advised us to the 
contrary, for the reason that we Avere not acclimated, and open expos- 
ure to the night-air is often followed by the most serious consequences. 
We therefore braved the suffocating and foul air of between decks, in 
preference to running the risk of sacrificing our health in the open air. 

The accommodations on this ship were not of the highest order. 
Besides the dingy cabins, the meals did not tempt the appetite. The 
eatables were not of the very best and were miserably cooked. In 
fact, we were greatly disappointed on our first introduction to English 
cooking. 

Although Ave sadly missed many conveniences, Ave Avere never- 
theless well pleased with our trip. Captain Anderson and his officers 




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and crew, all hailing from the British Isles, were a most polite and 
jolly set of fellows. During the day the officers engaged us in games 
of shuffle-board, ring-pitching, etc., and in the evening the crew 
voluntarily gave us a creditable song and dance entertainment, all 
of which created great amusement. 

At mealtimes, Captain Anderson, who by the way was a great 
reader, with a decided preference for some of our American authors, 
monopolized all the time and talked incessantly. Even when in the 
act of raising a morsel of meat or bread to his mouth, he would 
halt long enough " ' twixt the cup and the lip," to cite some quo- 
tation from Longfellow's "Evangeline," or the "Song of the Hiawatha," 
or relate some funny incident from Mark Twain's " Innocents 
abroad," or " Tom Sawyer," or " Huckleberry Finn." 

These recitals were occasionally dropped for sailors-yarns and 
other stories, which were well told. The Captain not only enter- 
tained us, but centering all our thoughts on him made us at times 
forget the poor and indigestible food served, which, under the cir- 
cumstances, we woidd eat with something like a relish. 

Our traveling companions on board were a young Englishman 
with his wife and little child, and a charming widow with four little 
children. They had been living at Tientsin for some years and were 
making a pleasure trip to the land of their birth, England. The 
first two were so wrapped up in each others love as to give them 
no time to pay any attention to us. They were decidedly unso- 
ciable. Their little baby-boy about two years old, was a nice little 
fellow, bright and plump. We would have admired him much more 
than we did, were it not for the fact, that every night when we 
had retired, he would make Rome howl for hours at a time. 

The widow was the relict of an official in the English civil ser- 
vice at Tientsin, who had died about six months before. Her fa- 
mily consisted of two bad boys, aged 6 and 8 years respectively, 
and two bewitching little twin-girls about 3 years old. The latter 






85 



were charming little creatures with ruddy cheeks, long blonde hair 
and the loveliest of blue eyes. They were favorites with everybody 
on board the " Achilles." Taken all in all this sail was one 
never to be regretted, and the many happy hours we spent during 
it will never be forgotten. At about noon of February 17th 1885, 
we arrived at Singapore and were soon safely tied to the Tanjong 
Pagar Company's docks. In the immediate vicinity of our landing- 
place, the Ocean Steamship Company, to which the " Achilles " be- 
longs, has extensive tobacco warehouses called godowns. This large 
concern controls the entire tobacco transportation of this jDart of the 
world. The company has numerous extra steamers which bring the 
tobacco from Sumatra and other jdaces to the warehouses at Singapore, 
from whence it is reloaded onto the large steamers for shipment to London 
or Liverpool. From there it is distributed over the balance of Europe 
and America for consumption. 

It was nearly 2 o'clock when we reached the Hotel de l'Europe, 
which is splendidly situated, facing the harbor and directly back ot 
the public grounds, fully a mile from the docks. Before entering 
into our personal experiences I will briefly describe Singapore city 
and Island. 

The city is situated on the southern shore of Singapore Island 
in latitude 1° 16' N. and longitude 103° 35' E. The Island is 27 
miles long and 14 miles wide and lies off the southern extremity of 
the Malay Peninsula. 

The population of the island in 1881 was 139,208, of which 
86,766 were Chinese and 22,114 Malays. The census of 1883 placed 
the population at 145,500. Of Klings from Ceylon, Parsees and 
Arabs there were about 1,500, and of Europeans, mainly English and 
German, there were, including 783 military men, a total of 2,768 ; the 
Eurasians or half-castes numbered 3,094. The town proper has fully 
100,000 inhabitants and is the seat of the government of the "Straits 



L 






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settlements/' one of the most important of English colonies in the 
East. 

It has an immense commerce. The returns for 1883 show a 
total of imports of $79,175,687.00 and a total of exports of $68,- 
174,220.00. The revenues amounted to $2,006,600.00 and the expen- 
ditures to $1,978,726.00. 

In the European portion of the city there are only a few fine 
structures. The store and business buildings or "hongs" cannot be 
compared with those of Shanghai and Hong Kong. The residences 
of the better class of Europeans are in the suburbs, and the best of 
country roads lead to them. The latter, owing to the luxuriance ot 
the tropical foliage, are very shady, which makes a drive on them, 
especially in the early morning, very enjoyable. 

The dwellings of the natives are mostly low, dirty houses, built 
of bamboo, cane and even mud, covered with straw or palm leaves. 
They are wretched quarters for human beings. The sites, being sur- 
rounded, as they generally are, by ail apparently impenetrable jungle, 
are to all appearances just such places as would invite snakes, wild 
beasts, insects and vermin of all kind as a permanent and safe abid- 
ing place. A mean and bad habit to which all the natives of the 
East Indies are addicted is the chewing of "betel." This is a jjre- 
paration consisting of leaves from the betel-nut tree, in which are 
wrapped slices of the catechu-palm fruit and a paste made out of 
lime, the whole properly seasoned with spices. Men and women 
alike indulge in it. The red juice discolors the teeth and lips, while 
occasional streaks running from the corners of the mouth down the 
chin, give them a disgusting appearance. 

The climate of Singapore is remarkably healthy. It is a para- 
dise for children, as infantile complaints seldom become malignant. 
The heat is rarely excessive and under normal conditions daily 
rainfalls cool off the atmosphere to an agreeable temperature. 

As is the case everywhere in the tropics, this island has its full 



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share of animal pests. The jungle is the home of the tiger. In taking 
a drive into the country we saw any number of wild monkeys disporting 
themselves in the branches of the trees lining the roadside. 

Of serpents there exist the cobra; the python, which sometimes 
reaches the formidable length of 24 feet; and the hamadryad, the most 
feared and the most dangerous of all snakes. 

Alligators and other reptiles are found in the waters; centipedes 
and scorpions are often met with in bed- or bath-rooms. 

In all the rooms at the Hotel de 1' Europe scores of lizards crawl 
on the walls and ceilings unmolested. Occasionally one would lose his 
hold and fall on the head of one of the guests or even make his way 
down the back of his neck. 

Lizards are not the worst of the indoor pests. The rooms swarm 
with cockroaches, bugs of all kinds, ants, and the greatest of all tropi- 
cal nuisances — the mosquitoes. 

They appeared to have had a particular prejudice against us, for 
from early dusk until we were snugly tucked away under a secure 
mosquito-bar, they would almost worry the life out of us. For the first 
few days our existence was a very, very miserable one. 

I shall never forget my first night in Singapore. An ice-cold 
shudder ran down my back on entering my room, when I discovered 
the presence of the lizards and bugs and contemplated the prob- 
ability of one of them creeping down my throat or making his way 
into my ear ; to be truthful I must say I slept but little. After a 
few days sojourn there we grew accustomed to this state of affairs 
and became almost as unconcerned about them as the natives them- 
selves. 

Singapore by reason of its geographical location is the key to the 
Eastern seas, the same as is Gibraltar to the Mediterranean. 

The majority of vessels going to or coming from the Eastern 
countries generally make a short stop, and steamers bound for distant 
ports on a long voyage usually take in a fresh supply of coal there. It 



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is generally conceded that more ships visit this port than any other 
in the East, not even excepting Hong Kong. In passing through 
the harbor on our Avay to the docks we saw hundreds and hundreds 
of sailing craft of all sizes and shapes. The diving hoy's frail canoe 
and the large heavy skiff; the small fishing smack and the Chinese 
junk; the diminutive tug and the mammoth merchantman; the swift 
freight and passenger steamer and the silent hut powerful man-of- 
war, all mingled together on the same water. Flags of all nations 
were seen fluttering in the breeze from the tops of the great masts. 
Occassional booms of large cannon will announce the arrival of 
one of England's wonderful ironclads. On nearing the docks we 
came within hailing distance of a large French transport carrying 
fully 1,500 troops who were on their way to take an active part in 
the war between France and China. They presented even a gayer 
appearance than did those on the "Djemnah." They cheered heartily 
as we passed by and in order to repay the compliment, we gave 
them all our lungs could deliver in return. 

The principal conveyance at Singapore is the "gharry." This 
is a four-wheeled top wagon, comfortably arranged for four passen- 
gers on the inside, Avith a seat in front for the driver. To this 
vehicle one small horse or pony, scarcely larger than a good sized 
Newfoundland dog, is hitched. This animal performs his part of 
the work to the letter. He will trot nimblv along the street drasr- 
ging behind him a load, far out of proportion to his size and weight, 
without any trouble. Some of them are very fractious, and a ride 
with one of this kind is not wanted a second time. 

There are fully a thousand "gharries" at Singapore, besides a 
large number of "jinrikshas," which have lately been introduced, 
and carriages of various kinds. The wealthy class have their own 
conveyances, many of which are very fine. The most attractive and 
decidedly the most costly and elegant turnout is owned by a rich 



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Chinese merchant, who took a particular pride in displaying himself 
and his vehicle on the drive in front of the Hotel de 1' Europe every 
evening, rain or shine. 

While we were at Singapore the Chinese were celebrating their 
New Year, which comes on February 15th. The celebration lasted 
nearly a week. Business among Chinese merchants was almost entirely 
suspended. Rich and poor alike gave themselves up to a life of gaiety 
and pleasure. They donned their best robes and paraded the streets 
all day long, looking cheerful anH happy. It is said that one of the 
customs of the Chinese demands that on New Year's day all good citi- 
zens give their bodies a thorough washing, put on clean clothes, pay all 
debts to date and make friends with all personal enemies. 

One of the most amusing sights connected with their festivities 
was the wearing of a new hat by every Chinaman who appeared on the 
streets, from the small boy up to the oldest Chinese resident. This of 
itself would not be anything unusually striking, were it not for the 
fact that all these hats were exactly alike in shape, size and color. It 
was a soft felt hat with a medium high crown, a tolerable broad brim, 
and of a light gray color. The reader can readily imagine how ludic- 
rous must have been the appearance of the small boy, scarcely six 
years old, wearing the same size hat as his father. Then to see a great, 
big headed Chinaman, who could easily stand a No. 8 size, strutting 
along in all his dignity and importance with a No. 6 perched on the 
top of his head. They paid no attention to anything and seemed per- 
fectly contented. 

At night hundreds of vehicles, from the 'riksha to the gharry 
and the finest carriage, could be seen, all being slowly driven around 
the public square in grand parade. The occupants were the festive 
Chinese. The vehicles were decorated and illuminated with thousands 
of Chinese lanterns. They did nothing but chatter, chatter, chatter, and 
were happy. The sight was as pretty as it was novel. 

The little Chinese children were also allowed to take an 



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active part in the New Year's festivities. Every afternoon during the 
holiday week we saw from the veranda of the Hotel large numbers of 
small baby wagons richly deeorated, each occupied by a Chinese baby, 
or small child, dressed in the gayest and most costly fineries, drawn up 
and down the square by Chinese coolies or by poor young Chinese boys. 
It looked for all the world like a procession of wax-dolls, and such cute 
and lovely ones too. The little wagons were marvels of beauty and 
elegance. The bodies were of gold and silver, and the wheels and 
running gear were painted in the brightest of colors, the whole artisti- 
cally decorated with streaming ribbons and tassels. Even now, when 
contemplating this beautiful spectacle, it appears to me as a sweet dream 
from fairyland. 

One evening during our sojourn in Singapore we witnessed an 
occurrence, such as could happen only at the Hotel de l'Europe. On 
the veranda and immediately around it, within a space fifty feet square, 
were assembled representatives from all the great nations of the Earth. 
We saw there congregated Englishmen, Mexicans, Frenchmen, Spani- 
ards, Italians, Germans, Dutchmen, Russians, Australians and Ameri- 
cans, as well as types of the races of nearly every Asiatic country, all 
engaged in lively conversation with one another, producing a noise 
such as must have been heard at the tower of Babel when work on that 
structure was unceremoniously stopped. 

Mr. Siegfried, the proprietor of the Hotel, informed us that at 
least thirty different languages were spoken at that remarkable 
gathering. 



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Chapter VIII. 



From Batovia tn CEylnn, 



V, 2! J 



■^ 




S we were so near the equator we concluded 

to avail ourselves of the first opportunity and 

cross the imaginary line. On February 21st 

we were safely quartered on board the new 

Dutch steamer " Tambora," bound for Batavia on the island of Java. 

Everything about the.ship was excellent, though we excepted to 

the speed of the vessel, which was limited to eight knots an hour ; a 

snail's pace indeed. 

Captain Lindemann, a small man of fully 250 pounds avoirdupois, 
informed us that all steamers of this line were restricted to this maxi- 
mum of eight knots, for the sole reason of economy. On board of this 
steamer we had the good fortune to meet with a number of Dutch 
officers in the colonial service, who had come from Sumatra, where they 
had been stationed for six years, in order to take passage for Batavia, 
where they were to report to the Governor-General of Java, then to be 
honorable discharged and to receive the customary free passage to old 
Holland, their dear and beloved Fatherland. 



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They occasionally entertained us with stories of their adventures 
in the war against the Atcheenese, who were disputing the rights of 
the Dutch in their claims upon the extreme northern portion of the 
island of Sumatra, and stated that, although the natives were 
not fully subjected, they had broken the back of the rebellion and pre- 
dicted its complete overthrow in the near future. 

We also had several companies of native soldiers (Javanese and 
Sumatrese) on board, who were clad in shabby European military 
apparel and presented a very awkward appearance. They seemed to 
be entirely lost in their strange clothes, and reminded me, in all their 
actions, of little boys dressed in their first pair of pants. We frequent- 
ly paid them a visit down in the steerage for the purpose of having 
a good laugh at their expense. 

Captain Lindemann and his officers, together with the military 
officials before mentioned, were very sociable. They spoke En- 
glish and German as fluently as their own language, and were bent on 
making the trip pleasant and agreeable for all on board. 

The meals were really splendid and a good part of the day 
was spent at the table in doing justice to the delicious dishes placed 
before us. 

On February 22nd, Washington's birthday, we crossed the 
equator, but were not subjected to the usual ceremonies of initia- 
tion, which formerly were experienced by those who passed that circle 
for the first time. In fact, owing to the regular line of steamers which 
ply between Singapore and Batavia regularly, the custom has almost 
become obsolete, at least so far as travelers are concerned. Occasion- 
ally the sailors resort to the old practice, and on our trip they even 
went to extremes in breaking in several of the new men, whose misfor- 
tune it was to have never been in the southern half of the world. 

These ceremonies generally consist of applying a lather of tar 
and oil to the face of the victim, and then subjecting him to a rough 
shaving or scraping with, a piece of hoop-iron. Any one not sub- 



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raitting to this procedure willingly will be forced into it, and if neces- 
sary is severely handled. 

It took us within a few horn's of three days to reach our destin- 
ation, although the distance is only 570 nautical or 660 statute miles. 
The place where we landed is several miles from the city proper, with 
which it is connected by a railroad. A fine canal, on which most of 
the goods received and shipped are transported, runs parallel with the 
railroad. 

Between the railroad and canal a fine carriage drive is being 
built. Trees were already planted all the way and the work of con- 
structing the road had actually begun. 

Batavia is situated near the north-eastern extremity of the 

island of Java in 6° 22' South Latitude and 106° 40' East Longitude. 

' Its population is estimated at 125,000, of which about 5,500 

are Europeans, 35,000 Chinese, 1,000 Arabs and other Asiatics. The 

balance of the population consists of Malays and Javanese. 

The old town or business portion presents no interesting fea- 
tures. The houses are of the same standard as those at Singapore ; but 
the streets present a dull appearance. The life and activity, 
which characterize the business quarter in other commercial cities of 
the East, are not met with there. 

Although Batavia has a large export and import trade, no one 
would imagine that such were the case from simple observation. 

Beyond the confines of the old town is the new city or the res- 
idence quarter. Here things look more cheerful. The houses are fine 
specimens of the modern villa style of architecture, surrounded by grand 
parks or beautiful gardens. The hotels, of which there are a great 
many, are neat and spacious buildings, seldom more than one story high, 
but covering a large area of ground. 

The Hotel de Niederlanden, where we took quarters, is con- 
sidered to be one of the largest and best in Batavia. The front build- 
ing, which faces a well-kept garden, is two stories high ; the lower 



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story containing the parlor or reading-room, and the dining-hall, while 
the upper floor is used for private apartments. 

The rooms for guests were in two separate one-story buildings, 
several hundred feet long, running parallel with each other, with a wide 
court between them. They were provided with large verandas, as are 
nearly all houses in the tropics. 

The meals were relishable and the service good; but the table 
etiquette, especially at "dinner," the principal meal, for which the gong 
never sounded until half past eight o'clock in the evening (rather late, 
is it not?), had a decided flavor of provincial aristocracy, with a ten- 
dency on the part of some of the guests to spread it on an inch thick. 
They were generally oblivious to all surroundings, being entirely 
wrapped up in their own great importance. It was not the rich Dutch 
planter nor the successful merchant, whose actions were unfavorably 
looked upon ; but invariably a member of the civil service, who had the 
most exalted opinion of himself. Nevertheless, he was harmless, and 
perhaps, on better acquaintance, one would find him to be a real good 
fellow, with a slight attack of a genuine case of " big-head." 

Batavia, modeled as it is after the cities in Holland, has several 
fine canals. The question of rapid transit has been solved with a dummy- 
road, and also a regular railroad leading from the wharf to the suburbs. 
Trains run on both roads at short intervals, offering highly satisfactory 
accommodations. 

The vehicles in general used here are the Singapore "gharry," 
and a two- wheeled buggy-top cart with room for four. The latter are 
called " Dos a Dos." The horses, like those in Singapore, are very 
small, but will not compare favorably with the latter as to strength or 
endurance, or even appearance. 

Buitenzorg, about forty miles from Batavia by rail, is the Los 
Angeles of the East. Here the Governor-General and many of the 
wealthy European residents of Java live during the hot season. The 
former's large and magnificent palace is surrounded by the most 



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beautiful gardens and parks. In fact, whole Buitenzorg is one grand 
park with fine drives that are eool and shady. Taking it altogether, 
the place is as delightful as it is charming, and as grand as it is beautiful. 

On our way back to Batavia we had the opportunity of admir- 
ing the luxuriance and abundance of tropical vegetation and foliage in 
all their glory. The grandeur of scenery which nature here unfolds is 
of such sublime magnitude, and of such great beauty, as to be beyond 
the power of any pen to describe. It must be seen to be fully enjoyed 
and appreciated. Here, as in Singapore, can be seen growing the betel, 
cocoanut, and other palm trees; now and then relieved by various man- 
gos and inangostines. Pineapples and bananas grow in profusion. 
Fine coffee and rice plantations abound all along the railroad. Their 
condition shows that pains and labor are taken in cultivating them. 

Having satisfied our curiosity in Batavia and its surroundings, 
we re-embarked on the steamer " Godavery," Captain Blanc, of the 
French M.essageries Maritimes for Singapore, there to make connection 
with the steamer for Ceylon. 

On this voyage Ave narrowly escaped a genuine ship-wreck. On 
the morning of the second day the ship ran aground off the coast of 
Sumatra during a slight gale, and it took us fully six hours to set her 
afloat again. There was considerable excitement among the passen- 
gers, as in the event of a storm, for which there were some indica- 
tions, serious results would surely have followed. 

Captain Blanc, his officers, and crew took things remarkably 
coolly, and,by their manly behavior, won the respect of all on board. 
There was a great sigh of relief when we were again under full head- 
way. On the clay after our arrival at Singapore from our trip across 
the equator we boarded the French steamer " Oxus," of the Mes- 
sageries Maritimes line for Ceylon. 

A laughable incident occurred at a basket and chairmaker's 
shop at Singapore, while we were there making a purchase just 



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previous to stepping into the gharry which was to take us to the 
wharf. 

A lively little Frenchman rushed into the store and abruptly 
demanded of the Chinese proprietor whether he had "ze babboon 
chair." Upon being shown some bamboo chairs and after having 
satisfied himself that they were " ze genuine babboon chairs," he 
purchased one and went on his way rejoicing. 

Thereupon we enjoyed a good laugh, the proprietor and his 
workingmen joining heartily in the chorus. We again met our funny 
Frenchman on board the " Ox'us," stretched out at full length in 
his "babboon" purchase, apparently happy and contented with his lot. 

The accommodations on the "Oxus" were excellent in every 
particular. There were over a hundred first-class passengers, among them 
many ladies and children. Here were represented the wealthy rice- 
merchant from Bangkok, or Saigon ; the great banker from Hong 
Kong; the tea-merchant from Shanghai, and the planter from Java and 
Sumatra. 

Some went on a short visit to the land of their birth, after an 
absence of many years; others again on an important business mission; 
some few whom fortune had favored were going home to enjoy the 
fruits of their labors in peace and retirement. The most interesting 
person on board was an Italian missionary from China, who had adop- 
ted the complete Chinese dress, not even excepting the queue. He pre- 
sented a rather comical sight in his assumed garb and caused every pas- 
senger to smile upon his first appearance on deck. But he soon became 
a favorite on account of his gentleness of manner, and his exemplary 
behavior, together with his willingness to entertain us with stories of 
his, at times very dangerous, experiences in the missionary service. 

Upon being asked as to his reason for wearing such a strange 
dress he said : 

" I adopted this dress many years ago, thinking that, perhaps, I 
would meet with better success in my work of converting the heathen. 



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I soon found I could approach them with less difficulty, whereby 
my labors were decidedly facilitated and the best results were attained. 
After my first experience I became satisfied and was forced to the con- 
clusion that I ought not dispense with it. Some of my friends in Italy 
have, by voluntary contribution, sent me enough money to make this 
trip. I shall only stay there a very short time, and will again return 
to my charge, there to live and die in the service of Christ." 

On Wednesday night, March 4, 1885, between the hours of 
eleven and twelve, we crossed 95° 36' of East Longitude, being then 
directly opposite Cincinnati, which is situated on the 84° 24' West 
Longitude. We were supremely happy at having safely accomplished 
one-half of our journey, and expressed the fervent hope that kind Pro- 
vidence would continue to guide us safely home. 

One evening, while strolling leisurely up and down the promen- 
ade deck with Captain Rapatel, the courteous commander of the 
"Oxus," I gleaned from him the following information relative to trop- 
ical fruits. Said he : 

"It is generally conceded by all travelers, who have visited 
both the East and West Indies, and have paid some attention to the 
various fruits indigenous to both sections, that many of the fruits of 
the West Indies are of a better quality than those of the East Indies ; 
that is, they have a better flavor, and in the world's market command 
better prices." 

In reference to the strictly tropical fruits I did not express an 
opinion, in fact, I could not, because I had never given the subject any 
close attention. I had made some discoveries however, and this is 
my experience : At the Victoria Hotel in Hong Kong we had placed 
before us a plate of the finest looking pears I had ever seen. My 
friends and I immediately helped ourselves and commenced to eat 
them. What a disappointment ! One bite was sufficient to keep us 
from ever eating Chinese pears again. They tasted different from 
anything we had ever eaten before, being not unlike a raw potato, 



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for which they would probably answer as a substitute in case of neces- 
sity. As dessert they were absolutely worthless. 

As a general thing the oranges we ate in the East were not as 
fine as those we were accustomed to at home. There were two varieties 
which, in my estimation, however, were fully equal to our best Florida, 
Louisiana, or Sicily oranges. These were the "Chinese" orange, with 
smooth skin of medium size and very difficult to peel, but full of juice 
with an excellent flavor; and the "coolie" orange, from meaium to large 
size, rough, thick skinned, very easy to peel, with sufficient juice and 
very fine flavor. 

Among the various delicacies served at the meals on the "Oxus" 
were watermelons from Egypt. They looked very inviting, and really 
were as fine looking melons as I had ever seen anywhere. The seeds 
were jet black, and the meat had a beautiful red color, but was without 
the slightest taste or flavor. As a matter of fact they were as worthless 
as the Chinese pears. 

I noticed other passengers eating these melons with a sauce made 
out of claret wine, and sugar, which I immediately imitated, with only 
passable results. T did not eat any more of the fruit after my first ex- 
perience. 

Our five day's voyage from Singapore to Ceylon was a delight- 
ful one. We encountered a beautiful clear sky, a calm sea, and com- 
paratively cool weather all the way. About noon of the fifth day out 
we anchored off Colombo, within a stone's throw from shore. 



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/^ INDIA C> \_ 



ERINNERUNGS DEHKMAL IN OAWDPOni 



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Chapter IX. 



ThE Island nf CEylnn. 



^— t — ^ — ^— »— ' 



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pon our arrival in the harbor of Colombo our 
ship was immediately surrounded by at least a 
hundred small craft of all sizes and shapes, 
the occupants of which were all anxious to 
v , i:j - -------- render us some service. The diving-boys, 

who also came out in their tiny boats, were soon actively engaged in 
furnishing amusement for those on board by their great aquatic feats. 

It is simply wonderful to see them dive after any piece of money 
thrown into the water Avhich one or the other would invariably capture. 
It rarely occurs that one of these coins is lost. 

The fishermen at Colombo in plying their vocation have 
no boats, but simply rafts, made of from five to seven logs from 
four to six inches thick, and about six feet long. These are nailed or 
tied together. On these frail floats they will venture miles away from 
shore, returning only after having made a successful haul, or in the 
event of an approaching storm 

Among others who came out in the small boats were several 
snake-charmers ; but none of the passengers manifested any curiosity 
to see their performance. 



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We finally struck a bargain with one of the natives, and after 
our baggage and ourselves were securely placed, we started for shore. 
We had scarcely left the ship's side when we espied one of the snake- 
charmers in our boat, who immediately proposed to have his snakes 
perform right then and there. 

I need not state that he was not allowed to exhibit his pets and 
that we tried to get away from him as far as possible. 

Upon reaching shore we were surrounded by a swarm of coolies 
who actually fought for the possession of our baggage, which after a 
prolonged struggle they succeeded in loading on a two-wheeled cart 
drawn by a pair of white bullocks. Now our troubles began. Every 
one of them clamored for pay, insisting that they had aided in hand- 
ling our baggage. Our boatman also demanded a sum thrice as large 
as was originally contracted for. 

We were in a very embarrassing position, to say the least, and 
our only recourse was to pay, and that most liberally, in order to ex- 
tricate ourselves from the trap in which we were caught. In this way 
we succeeded in satisfying most of them ; but about eight or ten in- 
sisted on following us to the hotel, all the while making threatening 
demonstrations. 

The manager of the New Oriental Hotel, where we registered, 
after considerable trouble, succeeded in dispersing them. 

After inspecting our new quarters, in conformity with the 
general custom, we engaged a servant, who was to attend to our rooms 
and wait on us at the table. We also retained a guide whose duty it 
was to show us the sights, and act as our interpreter. 

Travelers, who wish to enjoy any comfort in India, are com- 
pelled to furnish their own attendants, as the few who are in the direet 
employ of the hotels' are altogether unable to render satisfactory ser- 
vices. It is expected that a tourist upon his arrival should, in the 
first place, secure a servant to take care of his room, etc., and often an 



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extra one to wait at the table. For the night it is absolutely need- 
ful to employ two " punkha-pullers." 

"Punkhas" are a tropical necessity. You will find them 
everywhere. They are a kind of elongated fan running the full 
breadth of the beds in sleeping-apartments, and almost the full length 
of the rooms, in dining-halls, etc. They are hung from the ceiling 
with ropes or cords, and are kej>t in a swaying motion by " punkha- 
men," who are generally located in the hall-way, where they keep 
pulling a cord fastened to the"punkha." 

Two of these men will keep a " punkha " going all night, fur- 
nishing a continual draught of air. Thus only can sleep be enjoyed. 

Servants are very cheap in India ; the wages are eight rupees 
per month, which is considered a fair price. This amounts to a little 
more than ten cents per day. As a rule they generally receive an extra 
present of a few rupees when the traveler takes his departure. 

Ceylon, off the southern extremity of the peninsula of Hindo- 
stan, is often called the " Paradise of the World." It is the land of 
cinnamon, and the nutmeg ; tea, coffee and rice are also extensively culti- 
vated. Most of the tropical fruits abound. It is often conceded that 
Java,in the luxuriance and variety of its vegetation, and its scenery in 
general, can justly dispute the palm of " Paradise " with Ceylon. It 
is difficult to decide which of the two islands is the more beautiful, as 
each has natural advantages which are manifold and grand. 

A trip by rail to Kandy, which is situated in the centre of the 
island, gave us the opportunity of viewing to the best advantage this 
wonderful land. Along the road, leading as it does up the mountains, 
are presented glimpses of scenery of such marvellous beauty, as to in- 
spire with enthusiasm the most indifferent of human beings. 

Colombo, the metropolis of Ceylon, has 150,000 inhabitants, and 
is situated on the west coast of the island. The view of it from the 
ship was a splendid one, indeed. 

The European settlement, as is the case in nearly all English 



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106 



colonial settlements in the East, has many large and imposing struct- 
ures, wide and clean streets, extensive public grounds, and elegant 
parks and gardens. The New Oriental Hotel building would be a 
credit to New York, Chicago, or San Francisco. 

The native town consists of low, dirty houses seldom larger 
than from twelve to sixteen feet square, and from six to eight feet high. 
They literally swarm with inhabitants, and resemble a large bee-hive 
more than anything else. The streets are very narrow, and the life in 
them, especially in the evening just before sun-down, can only be 
likened unto a swarm of bees returning for the night. 

Many fine Hindoo temples are found there. The museum, though 
small, has a rare collection of curiosities. The drives along the beach 
and through the numerous gardens and parks are kept in excellent 
order. 

At Kandy are the great Hindoo temple, one of the finest in all 
India, and the " Paradeniya " Gardens, where every variety of tree, 
shrub, plant and fruit, peculiar to the tropics, is grown. "We spent 
several hours here under the guidance of one of the assistant superin- 
tendents, who took particular pains in showing us around and also in 
giving us all necessary explanations. 

We were highly pleased with this visit, for it certainly afforded 
us an opportunity of acquiring considerable knowledge of the extent 
and the peculiarities of tropical vegetation. 

The area of Ceylon is 24,454 square miles, and the population 
2,500,000, divided as follows : 

Singhalese, or original inhabitants, 1,500,000 ; Tamils, who emi- 
grated from the south eastern, or Malabar, coast of India, 800,000 ; 
Europeans of various nationalities, 3,000. 

The balance of the population is made up of people from the 
surrounding countries. 



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Chapter X. 



At Pcndicherry, Madras and Calcutta. 



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UK previously allotted time for Ceylon having 
expired we again moved onward. For the 
third time in succession we boarded a steamer 
j&s-iw™ T^Tl' of the line of the Messageries Maritimes. 

The " Tiber " was an old boat ; but as on all French steamers, 
the accommodations, especially the meals, were all that could be wished 
for. We had taken passage to Calcutta via Pondicherry and Madras. 
Dame Fortune again smiled on us during the entire voyage, making it 
enjoyable as well as interesting. 

After passing within sight of Caracal, a French colony on the 
south-east coast of Hindostan, we soon arrived at Pondicherry, where 
we made our first halt. Accompanied by one of the ship's officers, we 
were rowed ashore, determined to see all we could during the few 
hours we were to remain there. 

Pondicherry, the principal French colony in India, can not be 
compared with the English colonial cities. There are some respectable 
buildings, and a few passable streets; but on the whole it looks as if it 
were behind the times. There is very little business activity displayed 



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in the streets of the European quarter, which would seem to indicate a 
lack of enterprise on the part of the residents. 

The native quarter is similar to that of Colombo, even to the 
crowded streets. The garrison there consists of a detachment of 
French soldiers, and several companies of natives including a military 
brass band of forty pieces. The musicians are all natives, from the 
director down to the base-drum artist. Every evening they repair to 
the park, where for several hours they discourse sweet music to the 
assembled listeners. 

The rendition of several productions which we heard was 
highly creditable and merited the applause which was very liberal. 

We returned to the boat late that night, and early next morning 
were again under fair headway. After a ten hours' run we anchored 
off Madras, the view of which from the ship was exceedingly fine. 
Madras, in a business sense, is only a shadow of its former self. The 
little activity that is strll manifest, is not due to commercial transac- 
tions, but simply to the fact that Madras is the capital or rather the 
seat of government of the Madras Presidency. 

At the time of our landing only three vessels were to be seen in 
the harbor. "We were told that not many years ago it was nothing un- 
usual to see a hundred or more vessels anchored there. What a 
change ! It was brought about by the railroad connecting Madras 
with Bombay, by which the latter city monopolized the whole export 
and import trade of the northern and western parts of India. 

In our drives through the city we saw many large and elegant 
buildings, stern reminders of former greatness. We were shown the 
"Juggernaut Car," the great holy vehicle, which is indispensible in the 
many pilgrimages of the Indian idolators to some sacred shrine. 

The population of Madras is placed at over 400,000 ; but in 
actual business life it is only an overgrown village. 

At Madras two Englishmen, bound for Calcutta, boarded our 
steamer. One was a civil service officer, a so-called " magistrate," and 



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the other was a young lieutenant on his way to the Afghan frontier. 
In an interview with the former, who had been in India for many 
years, I received the following startling information relative to India : 

" You will undoubtedly be very much surprised when I tell you 
that were this drought, which is at present reigning in the Madras 
Presidency, to bring on a famine, it would be a great blessing for 
Tndia. This is not merely a view of my own, but it is the opinion of 
many of the best people in India. The reason is this : India is already 
overpopulated, and at the present rate of increase the day is not far 
distant when the resources will be inadequate to properly support all of 
her people. Then the most serious results are to be apprehended. 
The only hope lies in a famine, an epidemic, such as cholera, or in 
a bloody war." 

A most charming country, where famines, epidemics and wars 
are hailed as blessings ! 

What a great contrast to Madras does Calcutta, the " City of 
Palaces," present ! In her all is life, all is bustle. Business here, there, 
and everywhere. It appears as if everybody is employed in one or 
another capacity, and doing well. 

The view of the city from the Hoogly river is one of the grand- 
est in whole India. The palaces of the ex-king of Oude, the palace of 
the viceroy, the numerous government and private buildings, business 
houses and residences, most of them large and massive structures and 
finely designed, all situated along or near the banks of the Hoogly 
River, have given to Calcutta the name of " City of Palaces." 

The substantial part of Calcutta does not extend far into the 
city and on entering it the idea of greatness is speedily dispelled, for 
you soon pass through the European quarter into the native city with its 
miserable houses and hovels and its penetrating and horrible stenches. 

The renowned fashionable drive extends about two miles 
from the Government House to the Eden Gardens. Every evening 
at sun-down the " elite," in the finest of turnouts, can be seen 



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passing up and down this road, presenting one of the gayest scenes to 
be met with anywhere in the world. 

The ex-king of Oude daily frequents this locality, and al- 
ways receives his share of attention. 

The Great Eastern Hotel at Calcutta is the great Indian cara- 
vansary. The buildings cover a space nearly as large as a square in 
one of our American cities. It is not an imposing structure by any 
means, neither are the rooms, which are large and airy, furnished with 
any superfluous nor any too elaborate furniture, although on the whole 
everything is very comfortable. The long and narrow winding halls 
and staircases were crowded with servants all day and all night long. 
An actual count showed fully three servants to every guest. At night 
a walk through the halls offered a most interesting sight. Before every 
door there were from two to four punkha-pullers ; some of them were 
tugging away at the cord leading to the punkha inside of the rooms, 
while others were either chatting with one another, or taking a quiet 
nap, until their turn came to relieve those then engaged. In some pla- 
ces it required great care so as to pass through without stumbling or 
stepping on one of these fellows. 

We were quartered in a large room in the third story, with three 
comfortable beds provided with the necessary punkhas. Our pullers, 
Mahmond and Goola, were hired at the rate of about twelve cents per 
clay, with the distinct understanding that if they performed their ser- 
vices satisfactorily an extra remuneration would be forthcoming. This 
stimulated them to extra exertions; our quarters were kept cool and 
we enjoyed refreshing sleep every night. 

Cassam Ali, a Mohammedan, attended to our room, and waited 
on us at the table. Razoo, a full blood Hindoo, acted as our guide and 
interpreter. Under his direction we visited the large and highly in- 
structive Museum, the extensive and well-planned Zoological Garden 
with its fine collection of animals ; the beautiful Eden Gardens with 



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their famous Burmese pagoda, and several Hindoo and Mohammedan 
temples. 

One of the peculiar tenets of the Hindoo religion requires that 
no true worshiper of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, eat or drink anything 
until he has given his body a thorough washing or has taken a bath. 

The Hoogly river is the great bathing-place of Calcutta. In 
our daily visits to its banks we saw hundreds and hundreds of the devo- 
tees of Brahma disporting themselves in its waters. Every bather is 
supplied with a small brass pot of the capacity of about one quart, an- 
swering the purpose of a cup or glass. All take this pot full of water 
from the river home with them after having finished their bath. 

One of the curious customs is the manner in which the high- 
caste natives decorate their foreheads, arms, and breasts with red or 
white stripes of paint. It makes them look very ridiculous and vividly 
reminded us of the jovial modern clown., or the more comical Humpty 
Dumpty. We were told that the Hindoo ladies were required to go 
through the same bathing ceremonies as the men, but that they gen- 
erally performed their ablutions in the seclusion of their own chambers. 

The city of Calcutta is considered to be one of the wealthiest 
in all Asia. There is great rivalry between Calcutta and Bombay as to 
which is the first city in India. The respective newspapers at times ex- 
change compliments which are not the most friendly. 

Certain it is that Calcutta has sacrificed some of her trade to 
Bombay ; but for all this it is true that she will always be not only the 
great business centre of Eastern India, but also the capital of the great 
Eastern empire, where the whole machinery of state is regulated, and 
kept in excellent running order. 

The population of Calcutta is estimated at about 800,000 souls, 
of which fully three-fourths or 600,000 are Hindoos; 150,000 Moham- 
medans ; 25,000 Christians, including Europeans ; and the balance are 
Chinese, Parsees, and other Asiatics. 



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Chapter XL 



A visit to ttiE Himalaya Mountains 
and DarjEEling. 



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fter we had fully satisfied our curiosity at 
Calcutta we made preparations for a journey 
to the Himalaya mountains. Although the 

^"^5^ temperature at Calcutta during our sojourn 



was seldom below 100° Fahrenheit in the shade during the day, with a 
slight fall of the mercury at night, we acted upon the advice of our 
guide Razoo, and unpacked our trunks and provided ourselves with 
woolen underwear, winter overcoats, and blankets. This was done so 
that we might successfully contend against the freaks of the elements, 
which we were certain to encounter in our ascent of the great 
Himalayas. 

Razoo provided himself with a coarse, heavy pair of European 
pantaloons, and a coat. Both garments were large enough for two men 
of his size and weight. He told us that they Avere presented to him by 
a Christian missionary many years ago, and that he only made use of 
them Avhen escorting a party of travelers to the mountains. 

Darjeeling, our objective point, is situated 367 miles northward 
from Calcutta in the Himalayas, nearly 8,000 feet above the level 
of the sea. Within the past few years it has become the great East 
Indian summer resort. 



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There are many fine hotels and private villas, which are crowded 
to their utmost capacity during the hot season with members of the gay 
and fashionable world of the Indies. The vice-regal government, with 
its large retinue of officers and servants, is also removed there in the 
summer, and the reins of government appear to be handled with as 
much facility from that place as from Calcutta. The viceroy's resi- 
dence, which also contains some of the state departments, is a large and 
imposing structure, surrounded by a beautiful park with elegant drives 
and bridle paths. The government supports an immense hospital at 
that point where the most remarkable results are achieved in the treat- 
ment of the jungle fever, and the numerous other climatic ailments, to 
which many of the Euroj)eans are subject. 

We visited Darjeeling in the month of March, and found it de- 
cidedly comfortable to slip into our overcoats before we had reached our 
destination. Upon our arrival at that city the thermometer registered 
considerably below the freezing-point. 

We most heartily welcomed the cheerful fire which had been kept 
burning brightly for us by the genial host of the hotel, to whom we had 
telegraphed our intended arrival from Siliguri, at the foot of the mount- 
ains, fifty-one miles away. 

The traveling accommodations from Calcutta to Darjeeling are 
very good. A fine broad-gauge railroad connects the former city with 
Siliguri. There is but one change of cars and that at Damookdea, on 
the south side of the Holy Ganges river. Passengers are carried across 
on a neat steamer to Sara Ghat, where they again step into the train to 
proceed on their way. 

The scenery along the line of the road is not particularly attrac- 
tive, and with the oppressive heat we had to contend with, the 
journey was not a pleasant one. The interesting and at the same time 
enjoyable part of the tour to the Himalayas is from Siliguri. Here 
you take the narrow-gauge train, whose small but powerful iron-horse 
draws its load slowly but surely up the steep mountain-sides to Dar- 



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jeeling. It takes fully eight hours, including a few short stoppages, to 
cover this distance of fifty-one miles, which of itself would be very te- 
dious riding, were it not for the fact that the scenery along this road 
presents some of the grandest, most sublime, and loveliest mountain 
pictures imaginable. 

Despite the unfavorable weather we employed our time to good 
advantage in making excursions on horse-back up and down the moun- 
tain-sides. Having received the information that from Tiger Hill, a 
peak situated about eight miles from Darjeeling at an altitude of about 
10,000 feet, occasional glimpses of Mount Everest and Mount Kinchin- 
chunka, the former over 29,000 feet and the latter over 28,000 feet high, 
could be obtained, we decided to see these, the greatest of mountains, at 
all hazards. 

After making several trips to Tiger Hill without getting the 
longed-for view on account of the cloudy weather, the tops being con- 
tinually enveloped in a dense fog, we finally concluded to get ahead of 
Old Sol and be on the Hill next morning before sun-rise. It was then 
that we were rewarded with a splendid view of the two highest moun- 
tains in the world, rising majestically up into the very dome of the skies. 

The scene is one of awful sublimity. It is utterly impossible to 
comprehend it in all its vastnes and grandeur. We stood fully a half- 
hour as if spell-bound, without uttering a word. It was not until the 
clouds had again fallen over the peaks and shut them off from our gaze, 
that it was possible for us to throw off the charm that had possessed us. 
This, one of the most wonderful of all our adventures, continued to be 
discussed for weeks and will never be forgotten. 

We returned to the hotel, where a substantial breakfast awaited 
us, to which full justice was done, as the early morning ride had the 
effect of decidedly sharpening our appetites. Shortly after sun-rise of 
the day following the above experience we were again moving down 
the mountain-sides and over the hot and scorching plains to Calcutta, 
a little the worse for wear, but well satisfied with our adventures. 



^^^H 



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GOinS TO THF TFHiPlf 



INDIA 



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Chapter XII. 



TmvElino in India. 



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I he return journey to Calcutta was without 
any incident of interest and was more or less 
tedious. Though tired, fatigued, and sore, we 
; ivr-^v lost no time in arranging for our trip " through 
the heart of India." Stopping only for a night's rest, we began what 
promised to be a dangerous journey the morning after our return from 
Darjeeling and the Himalayas. 

The route we had previously planned made Delhi our northern 
objective point and contemplated stops at the renowned cities of Bena- 
res, Allahabad, Cawnpore, and Agra. From Delhi we were to push 
ahead to Bombay, via Jeypoor and Ahmedabad, stopping wherever we 
saw fit. 

The scenery along the route, after leaving the beautiful poppy 
and indigo fields of the eastern part of Hindostan, presents no remark- 
able features. The arable land is all under cultivation, although the 
yield is not so large proportionally as in other countries, owing to the 
severe drain it has been subjected to for hundreds and even thousands 
of years, by giving up its nutriment in the production of crop after 



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crop without a corresponding return of fertilizing nourishment in some 
shape or form. 

Occasionally fine groves of palm, mango, acacia, and other 
Indian species of trees break the monotony of the prairie-like fields. 

Between Delhi and Jeypoor are the ruins of many old feudal 
castles ; some of them are surrounded by high and thick walls, and 
must have been almost impregnable fortresses in their time. They 
were built to protect against the systematic plunder and murder so 
common in those days, but these causes exist no longer, for peace and 
quiet now reign. 

The central and northwestern portions of India are the great 
camel country. Here thousands of this humpy species can be seen 
doing good service in the cities and towns, on the public highways 
and in the fields, where they are sometimes hitched to a plow. They 
are turned out to graze in the extensive pastures like the cattle on our 
western plains. 

Before entering India we had heard and read some of the most 
terrible accounts of the great dangers there. We were told that the 
country swarmed with elephants, tigers, leopards, snakes, alligators, 
scorpions and a thousand other wild and poisonous animals and insects, 
which were impatiently waiting to destroy the adventurer who should 
set foot on Indian soil. 

These stories had some effect upon us. They certainly caused 
us to be on the lookout at all times. Whenever we were passing over 
what we considered dangerous ground, we were all eyes aud ears, and 
were always armed with 42-caliber Smith and Wesson revolvers and 
heavy canes. 

It is claimed that about 20,000 persons die annually in India 
from the bites of poisonous snakes aloDe, yet Ave were unable to find a 
single person who could give an authentic account of any one having 
come to his death in that way. 

A German gentleman, connected with one of the largest houses 



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in Calcutta, told us one evening at the Great Eastern Hotel, after hav- 
ing the question put to him, that he had heard of very few eases of 
death from snake-bites during his ten years' sojourn in India. The 
greatest danger for a new-comer is the climate, the peculiar influence 
of which contributes more to the mortality list than all the other causes 
combined. The drinking of pure, unadulterated water is also con- 
sidered very dangerous, and you will never see a foreigner, or any one 
not acclimated, drinking water without the addition of some brandy, or 
claret, or spirits of some kind. 

It is a poor country for total abstainers. English ale and light 
German beer are largely consumed, especially the latter, which has 
come into great favor within the last three years. Several large Ger- 
man breweries are making a specialty of shipping beer to the Far 
East and large quantities are yearly exported. It is bound to make 
decided inroads on the exportation of ale and porter from the British 
Isles to that part of the world. 

Traveling by rail in. India, with all its obstacles in the shape of 
heat, vermin, and other inconveniences, is not so very uncomfortable. 
The railroad system cannot be excelled anywhere in the world. The 
roads are well built and smooth, and the depots are fine and substantial 
structures surrounded by flowers and shrubbery. 

Every large station has a refreshment room attached, where the 
hungry and thirsty traveler can satisfy his appetite without stint. The 
passenger coaches are large and airy. They are built on the English 
coupe system, but are fitted up with all the modern conveniences, 
which the English and German cars so sadly lack. 

The seating capacity of a first-class coupe is for four persons, 
who can all have a comfortable resting-place for the night by simply 
pulling out two shelves from the sides of the coach above the seats a 
la Pullman palace car. These seats or bunks are long and wide enough 
for anybody. Many a night we rested in them as nicely as in the 
finest of beds. 



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Travelers in India generally carry with them a small bag con- 
taining a head-pillow and a white sheet; the latter to be used as a cov- 
ering at night, solely for the purpose of protecting the neat and tidy 
white clothes always worn in that country. 

Some of the East India roads, especially the one between Ahme- 
dabad and Bombay rival the famous Egyptian railways for dust-throw- 
ing capacity. The fine sand is in continual circulation through the 
train, covering everything with a thick layer of yellow earth, and almost 
suffocating the poor occupants. Such railroad travel is indeed burden- 
some and had no attractions for us. 

Throughout our whole journey across India, during which wc 
covered about 2,800 miles by rail alone, we were never hampered by 
any unnecessary luggage of any kind. Our light overcoats answered 
a double purpose. They were dusters by day and head-pillows by 
night. A change of white clothes for each, and an extensive supply of 
handkerchiefs completed our outfit, the whole scarcely filling up one 
side of a common hand-satchel. Our trunks and several valises, con- 
taining the remainder of our baggage, were shipped direct to Bombay 
from Calcutta by fast freight. 

Razoo, our guide, who accompanied us as far as Bombay, was 
the happiest of Hindoos when he saw the limited amount of baggage 
placed in his care. The little ice-chest, which he had made for us, and 
which resembled, both in size and shape, an ordinary candle-box, lined 
with a half-inch layer of felt, to prevent the heat from penetrating into 
it, rendered excellent service. One side of the box we kept constantly 
filled with ice, which was procured at the refreshment stands of the 
large stations, and on the other side we had a supply of soda-water, 
claret, and a quantity of fruit that was always fresh and cool, and ready 
for immediate use. 

One of the most accommodating as well as humane features of 
railroad traveling in India is, that at all stopping-places fresh water 
is brought to every car-wiudow and door, and served out gratuitously 



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by parties especially employed for that purpose by the railroad com- 
panies. As stations are quite numerous, there is no occasion for any- 
body suffering for the want of a cool drink. 

The Hindoos are great travelers, and it is a rare occurrence to 
see any of the third or fourth-class cars, which they usually occupy, 
not well filled. Trains run as frequently as do ours at home, and they 
seldom pull out of a depot with less than twenty, and often with as many 
as forty coaches, fully three-fourths of which are for the sole use of the 
natives ; this fact proves how very fond of traveling the Hindoos are. 

Of course, the stockholders of the different roads fare none the 
worse for this ; but on the contrary are made extremely happy by the 
enormous dividends which, at short intervals, are declared. 

Returning to the inhabitants of the East Indies, I will not at- 
tempt to give a description of their manners, customs and religion, as 
other pens have thoroughly exhausted this subject. I will say how- 
ever that my personal experience in India showed everything to be 
almost exactly as I had previously been informed. Only in one re- 
spect do the accounts fail to properly portray the existing state of affairs, 
and that is the practice of the Brahmin religion. 

To see the Hindoos, who are undoubtedly the grossest of all 
idolaters, in their temples, some of which are actually reeking with filth 
and dirt, and from which emanates a most horrible stench, paying 
tribute to myriads of idols in the shape of bulls, dogs, monkeys, etc., 
both alive and in image, is a sight so disgusting, so loathsome, and so 
detestable, as to offend any civilized human being. 



^^<" 




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Chapter XIII. 



Trnunn the HEart nf India. 

BEnarEB, Allahabad, CawnpnrE, Agra, 

DElhi, and Bnmtiay. 



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will relate some of our personal experiences 

and endeavor to give some information as 

-— | to what we saw in the different cities which 

"' ; - ;: ''"'* > ''^*^^S^ffi we visited in our tour through "The heart of 

Wm India." 

Our first station after leaving Calcutta was Benares on the Gan- 
ges, the sacred river of India. A population of 900,000 is claimed for 
this city, of which fully 90 per cent, are Hindoos. Benares is the 
holiest spot on earth to the Brahmin. It is his Mecca. 

To this place yearly thousands, aye, hundreds of thousands of 
pilgrims flock to do homage at the numerous shrines of Brahma, and 
wash away their sins in the holy waters of the Ganges. The shore for 
many miles is lined with large and magnificent palaces of the native 
princes, maharajahs, rich nabobs, and others, who frequently come 
here when the weight of their sins becomes oppressive, for the purpose 
of unloading it. They tenaciously cling to the belief taught them 
by their priests, that by bathing in the Ganges river, drinking of its 
waters, and by offering rich sacrifices to the gods, they will again be- 
came as pure and spotless as on the day they were born. 



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Benares has over a thousand temples and several hundred 
mosques, which with their domes and minarets, together with the grand 
palaces on the river banks, present, from the bridge, a truly enchanting 
view. But what a difference when you enter the inner city !, 

Many of the streets are so narrow, that if two persons, coming 
from opposite directions, want to pass, it becomes absolutely necessary 
for one of them to stand in some niche or doorway, so as to make room 
for the other. Some again are wide but almost impassable on account 
of the deep sand which forms the road-bed. No particular attention is 
paid to cleanliness and the consequences are easily to be conjectured. 

The greater part of the city through which we passed appeared 
like a mass of ruins, and was undoubtedly the worst place we had thus 
far seen, with the single exceptios, of native Shanghai. Under the 
guidance of Razoo we visited several of the finest temples, among 
them the world-renowned Golden Temple and the equally famous 
Monkey Temple. 

The Golden Temple is very gaudy from the outside and makes 
a good impression on the stranger ; but the interior, like all the other 
Hindoo places of worship, is filled Avith idols of all descriptions made 
of stone, wood, ivory, and other materials. Bulls, goats, monkeys, and 
mongrel dogs also roam about unmolested. Some of the gods must 
have a particular fondness for flowers, for in many parts of the temple 
the floor was literally covered with them. 

By dint of shrewd management, or rather by downright impu- 
dence, on the part of our guide, we witnessed a sight, such as few tour- 
ists who visit Benares ever behold. Razoo, after having disposed of 
the crowd of beggars that had persistently followed us since our en- 
trance into the temple by giving them each a small coin, ascended the 
steps to a small platform, from which a door led into an apartment. 
This entrance was closed at the time. 

Razoo then whispered to us that he was going to push the door 
open as far as he could, and instructed us to place ourselves in such a 



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position as to get a glimpse of the interior in the event of his scheme 
being successful. This we did. The door yielded immediately, and al- 
most opened altogether. We lost no time in poking in our heads and 
taking a survey of the situation. Scarcely ten seconds had elapsed be- 
fore there was a scramble and a scuffle, and with a loud bang the door 
closed on us, and left us again on the platform. 

Upon Razoo's advice we hastily left the temple, for we had pro- 
faned the holy place. What we saw was this : Immediately to the 
left of the door was a large space filled with cattle. It had the ap- 
pearance of being a common cow-stable and there must have been fully 
forty head of cattle in it, Avhich were being gayly decorated with rib- 
bons and flowers by a crowd of fanatics — men, women, and children — 
who looked for all the world as though they had lost their reason on 
the subject of religion. They stared at us in blank astonishment, and 
some of them made threatening movements toward the door. But be- 
fore they got there we had been hastily hustled out and made good 
our escape. 

We afterward learned that it was the headquarters of the holy 
bulls and that it was one of the most sacred places in whole Benares. 
It is strictly guarded against intrusion from any non-Brahmin. 

The interior of the Monkey' Temple is similar to that of the 
others, with the exception that hundreds of monkeys disport themselves 
there in the most ridiculous and impudent manner. Upon entering 
the enclosure to the side of the temple, we were immediately surrounded 
by at least a dozen candy-venders and by a score of these animals. 

The latter, by their ludicrous gesticulations and movements, to- 
gether with their peculiar squeaking, left no doubt as to what was ex- 
pected of us. They were begging for the sweets, and begging hard, 
too. In order to get out of this dilemna we purchased a large part of 
the stock on hand and transferred it to a number of small boys, who ' 
had orders from Razoo to distribute it.- 

Upon leaving this temple we were followed by a crowd of the 



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most persistent beggars we had ever met. From previous experience 
we concluded that to pay was the best thing we could do. Our change 
did not reach all around, and some of the beggars followed us for over 
a mile, though we were driven at a lively gait. 

Along the river banks there are numerous places which are used 
exclusively for burning the Hindoo dead. The body is simply laid on 
a pile of wood, which is then ignited. The odor which arises there- 
from is not the most agreeable. The fact is, that it is almost impos- 
sible for any one, whose delicate nasal organs are not accustomed to 
such odors, to endure it ; surely he will not wish to test it the second 
time. 

During our sojourn in Benares we suffered terribly from the 
heat. The reflection from the sand, on which the city is built, and the 
penetrating rays from the sun above, combined to produce a temperature, 
which in our opinion was fully sufficient to melt all the gold in and 
around the Golden Temple. 

In all our travels we were never happier than when, having 
shaken the dust from our feet, we bade the Hindoo Mecca farewell. 

Allahabad, our next station, is called the City of God, and is 
also one of the holiest of Indian cities. It is claimed that it is sit- 
uated at the junction of three sacred rivers. The Jumna and the Gan- 
ges are two of them, and actually exist ; but the third is a " spiritual " 
one, which only flows in the minds of the fanatics, who have been taught 
to believe that its source is in heaven and its course is past Allahabad. 

This city is a very live business point, with a population of 
fully 70,000 inhabitants. The streets, especially in the early evening, 
present an animated and highly interesting appearance. It was very 
difficult at times for our conveyance to make any headway, on account 
of the thronged thoroughfares. 

The fort, situated a short distance from the city, was built 
about three hundred years ago by the Mogul emperor Akbar. It has 



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lately been partially rebuilt and reconstructed by the English, who 
have a strong garrison stationed there all the year round. 

In one of the vaults of the fort there are still left the ruins of 
an ancient Hindoo temple. An exceedingly clerical looking person- 
age guided us through it. He was very willing to exhibit any number 
of the most wonderful curiosities at a rupee (forty cents) a piece, but 
we cautiously refrained from spending very much money on them. Our 
investment was therefore limited to only three rupees. This did not 
appear to please our priest-guide, although he did not venture to make 
any uncomplimentary remarks. 

The elegant and costly palaces, which once adorned the interior 
of the fort, are still there, some parts being in a remarkably fine state 
of preservation. To-day they stand as unimpeachable witnesses of the 
once magnificent reign of the Mogul emperors. 

From Allahabad we wended our way to Cawnpore, where we 
viewed the splendid monument erected to the memory of the poor 
unfortunate English, men and women, who were slaughtered there 
during the mutiny of 1857. At Cawnpore the terrible Sepoy rebellion, 
during which so much precious blood was spilled, and which at one 
time threatened to divest England of her power in India, originated. 
The history of this mutiny chronicles deeds of the bloodiest, the most 
fiendish, and the most horrible character. 

We left Cawnpore with its melancholy history and took our 
course toward Agra, the residence, in days gone by, of the great 
Mogul emperors Akbar, Jehangeer and Shah Jehan, who ruled there 
during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries with a splendor and 
regal pomp such as the world had never seen before, nor witnessed 
since. 

The great fort of Agra, built by Akbar, is an immense and sub- 
stantial piece of work. From appearances it could have withstood any 
assault in the days of active service. Within its walls are the grand 
palaces of this emperor and of his grandson, Shah Jehan. They are mar- 



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vels of beauty and elegance, and are fully in keeping with those glori- 
ous times. 

Fabulous sums were expended in their erection, and on account 
of their great architectural and other beauties they have become fa- 
mous all over the world. 

The "Junma-Musjid." or " Great Mosque," situated near the 
fort in the city proper, is a grand structure and worthy to be ranked 
with the other monuments of the Mogul period. But all of these con- 
clusive proofs of a once brilliant reign in Northern India fall into 
insignificance when compared with the grandest of all monuments, the 
most beautiful of all structures, the " Taj." "Who has not heard 
of the Taj ! 

I well remember, when I was a child attending school, that my 
teacher gave us a description of the "Taj" in the most glowing terms. 
At the time it impressed me as would a charming fairy tale. I never 
forgot it, and as years rolled on and I had convinced myself of the 
existence of this marvelous work of man far away in the north of India, 
I firmly resolved to some day journey thither and view it with my 
own eyes. 

My ambition was gratified. I saw it and shall never cease 
wondering. The Taj was built by Shah Jehan upon the death of his 
favorite "begum" (wife), Montaj-I-Mahal-Ranoo-Begum or Noor Ma- 
hal, as her last resting-place. It is beyond doubt the most lasting, cost- 
liest, and most fitting monument ever erected in memory of a dear 
departed. No one having seen it will doubt the great emperor's sin- 
cere affection for his young wife, Moontaj-I-Mahal, "the pride of the 
palace." They now sleep side by side, the remains of Shah Jehan 
having been placed in the Taj upon his death, in 1666, thirty-five 
years after the death of Noor Mahal. 

For me to attempt to give a creditable description of this grand 
tomb and its surroundings would be as vain as to attempt swimming 
across the mighty Pacific Ocean. Both would be utterly impossible. 



137 



I doubt whether any description has ever done full justice to the 
beauties of the " Taj." 

To me it seemed a fairy palace floating in the air, such as we 
read about in the "Arabian Nights." It is too grand, too noble, too 
sublime, too marvelously beautiful to be earthly — it is heavenly. Built 
as it is of white marble, it impresses one by moonlight as if it were 
a snow-white cloud suspended in the air and magically wrought into 
the contour of the Taj. 

I shall never forget the mournful feeling that overcame me 
when standing before the two tombs. The effect was so overpowering 
that I could have wept like a child. In vain did I attempt to control 
my feelings. The tears came into my eyes in spite of all that I could 
do. It was so solemn — and oh ! they must have loved each other so 
dearly. They must be happy even in death. 

Verily, these strange feelings will cling to me forever — aye, 
until my journey of life is over. Farewell, Taj ! farewell ! May my 
footsteps guide me to thee again. 

In whole India there are only two objects, to see which I would 
journey there again ; they are the grand Himalayas, the mighty works 
of God and the peerless Taj, that grand production of man, so closely 
resembling divine handiwork. 

After having partly shaken off the spell of melancholy which 
had taken possession of me while beholding the Taj, I decided to take 
a survey of the trees and shrubbery and the beautiful flowers, which 
were scattered in great profusion in the grand gardens facing the Taj. 
While perambulating around carelessly I was suddenly seized with a 
terrible pain in the back of my neck, which made me scream out. 
I immediately searched for the cause, and found a good sized honey- 
bee, which had sunk its sharp sting into me fully half an inch. 
I had scarcely killed this enemy, when I was surrounded by a 
large number of the busiest bees I ever saw, all trying their 
utmost to gain a foot-hold on some unprotected part of my body, 



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with a view undoubtedly of also attacking me as did my first assailant. 
I soon had my arms and hands working violently around my head and 
face, so as to prevent them from stinging me, and ran with full speed to 
my friends, who succeeded in killing some and driving off the remain- 
der of my obnoxious enemies. One of the aggressive creatures had 
first to be taken out of my moustache, where it seems to have hidden 
itself to await an auspicious opportunity to taste my blood. 

Our guide informed me that the day before at a basket pic-nic 
held in these gardens, by the children of the public schools of Agra, a 
large number of the little ones were severely injured by these bees. It 
is no wonder that such accidents occur, for the gardens literally swarm 
with bees. Large nests are found everywhere attached to the walls and 
ceilings. Even the hallowed interior of the Taj itself does not escape 
their intrusion. There is a huge nest right in the dome, which is 
not allowed to be removed. I may say that it does not add to the 
beauty of the place by any means. I felt exceedingly happy when I 
finally found myself away from the garden and out of reach of my 
late enemies. 

At Agra we had the good fortune to secure the services of the 
celebrated Hindoo guide, Baboo Gobind Ram, through whom we 
were enabled to see everything worthy of notice. 

From Agra we went to Delhi, where Baboo Gobhidial, a highest 
caste Hindoo, took us in charge and" satisfactorily guided us to the var- 
ious places of interest in and around this famous Indian capital. 

Delhi is the great business point of north-western India, and has 
fully 200,000 inhabitants. Rejjresentatives of nearly all the nations 
and tribes of Asia, together with Europeans from different countries 
are found there. The public thoroughfares are crowded with busy 
people from early morn until nightfall. The scene is an animated and 
highly attractive one. There are several fine gai'dens in the city and 
in the immediate suburbs, all of which are kept in splendid condition 
under strict English management. 



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The fort and palaces, like those at Agra, are additional proofs 
of the truthfulness of the reports of the Mohammedan rulers. 

In the Great Mosque, which is an immense structure of striking 
architectural design, we were shown, for a remuneration of one rupee 
each, the following "genuine" relics: Extracts of the Koran, written 
on parchment by the great prophet Mohammed himself; the whole 
Koran written by Mohammed's son-in-law ; one of Mohammed's shoes ; 
the imprint of his foot in a solid rock ; and lastly a hair from the holy 
prophet's beard. 

This hair is about four inches long, fiery red, and about as 
Coarse as a sample from a horse's tail. 

At Jeypoor, on the road from Delhi to Bombay via Baroda, are 
the great tanks containing the sacred alligators, whose only food, 
before the English government interfered, consisted of live human be- 
ings, who were thrown into the water by their fanatical relatives as 
sacrifices to the gods. 

The English officials checked this most horrible of all 
Hindoo practices, but must be constantly on the watch, lest the 
natives resume the custom. There is only one argument through 
which these gross idolators can be brought to reason, and that is the 
cannon. Powder and shot have forced them to terms, where all other 
remedies signally failed. 

Although missionaries and school-teachers have in some instan- 
ces made satisfactory progress in the dissemination of the Christian re- 
ligion, the best results in this respect are obtained in the localities 
occupied by the British soldiery. 

Bombay, the great city of the western coast, if not the greatest 
city in the East, Calcutta not excepted, has large and magnificent struc- 
tures, fine public grounds, and wide, clean streets. In other words, it 
is a large European or American city, populated with colored people. 

The native quarter, unlike that at Calcutta, consists for the most 
part of four- and five-story houses, and the life in the streets exceeds 



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by far that in Wall street or Broadway in New York, or Washington 
street in Boston. Some of them are so crowded as to render it diffi- 
cult for a vehicle to pass through. 

The Parsees make up a large part of the population of Bombay, 
numbering fully a hundred thousand souls. They originally came 
from Persia and are worshipers of Zoroaster (fire-worshipers). Zoro- 
aster was a Persian prophet, who spread his doctrine about six-hundred 
years before the Christian era. Their manner of disposing of the dead 
is extremely revolting. The naked corpse is laid on a grate on the top 
of a tower, where vultures, hawks, and other carniverous birds devour 
the flesh and entrails. The bones fall into the tower, where they are 
allowed to decay. 

These fire-worshipers are excellent business men, and in the 
commercial world of the metropolis occupy a very prominent position. 
They are heavy owners of real estate in the city proper. Many of the 
largest and finest buildings are of their possessions. Besides, they con- 
trol large landed estates throughout the western part of India. 

The Parsee ladies are most charming creatures. To see them in 
the early evening in their elegant open carriages, with their bright 
colored wraps thrown gracefully around them, is indeed a pretty sight. 
Their complexion is as fair as a lily ; they have jet black eyes, beaming 
in loveliness, and the most luxuriant dark hair. They are small in sta- 
ture, but shapely in form. 

The Apollo Bunder is a large pavillion situated on the banks 
of the harbor, where every evening an excellent concert is given at 
sun-down by the English military band. On these occasions the elite 
of the great capital congregates there. Some promenade around, while 
others appear in the finest of conveyances, and a few are on horseback. 

All are dresced in the height of fashion peculiar to this hot cli- 
mate and a fascinating scene is then unfolded. As a general thing the 
Parsee ladies eclipse their European sisters, both in the elegance of 
their dress, and in the stylishness of their turnouts. 



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The Cave of Elephanta, situated on an island in the bay, 
about six miles from Bombay, is a Hindoo temple, with numerous 
underground apariments, containing large stone statues of the gods and 
goddesses. These are said to have been placed there as early as the 
sixth century. 

Most of the figures are in a badly mutilated condition, oc- 
casioned by the firing of cannon-balls into them by the Portuguese in 
the sixteenth century. 

The trip to the island of Elephanta is made in a small steam 
yacht belonging to the hotel and a most enjoyable afternoon can be 
spent in visiting these caves. 

While at Bombay we saw a number of the best snake-charmers 
in India. Some of the snakes of the python species were fully fifteen 
feet long, and probably from fourteen to eighteen inches in circumfer- 
ence. There were also some fine specimens of the cobra variety. I 
took particular notice that the snake-charmers were very careful in 
handling them. 

The stories which are circulated and which find credence every- 
where, to the eftect that the East Indian snake-charmers handle their 
snakes and especially the poisonous ones with all freedom, even going 
so far as to allow themselves to be bitten by them, which bites are said 
to never result seriously, are all fabrications, and have foundation only 
in the imagination of the writers. 

These snake charmers are no more proof against the deadly 
poison of the cobra, than are other mortals. They are fully aware of 
this, as can be seen by the extreme caution they take while going 
through their performances with the snakes. Their numerous and 
world-renowned tricks are in nearly every instance the result of the 
most clever slight-of-hand manipulation. 

The nautch-dancers and singers are also a great attraction. The 
girls are generally very pretty, but disfigure themselves with the many 
ornaments which they use to decorate profusely. It is nothing unus- 



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ual to see one of these lovely creatures with several large rings hang- 
ing from her finely shaped nose, which, as will be readily believed, 
does not enhance her beauty by any means. 

The hair, ears, neck, hands, and feet also come in for their share 
of embellishments, making them appear in all reality like a traveling 
jewelry shop. The dancing and singing possess certain attractions, 
which rivet your attention to them for the time being, but for me it 
lacked that magic power, which many travelers, who have written 
about them, so vividly describe. 

Watson's Esplanade Hotel at Bombay is, like the Great Eastern 
at Calcutta, a large caravansary. Business was decidedly brisk there 
during our stay, and all available space was occupied. There was a 
general rush for the table whenever the meal-bell rang, as there were 
more guests than covers, and everybody wanted a seat at the first 
table. The waiters are the celebrated Goa boys. They come from the 
island of Goa, the Portuguese colony on the west coast of Hindostan, 
and are petite, with a light brown complexion, and black hair. 
They are very neat and clean in their dress, in which they adhere to 
the European style, and render the best of services. 

UpOn first seeing them they forcibly recalled to my mind the 
fleet-footed and jolly little Jap waiters of the Grand Hotel at Yo- 
kohama. 

At Bombay our journey through India ended, and we soon 
found ourselves steaming out of the fine harbor on board the Austrian 
Lloyd steamer " Elektra," in search of sights in other countries. 



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Chapter XIV. 



Arania and Egypt. 



143 



f 




o fault could be found with the "Elektra." 
She was an elegant steamer in every particu- 
lar and was brilliantly illuminated with elee- 
'7^T^;£?.K" r trie light. Her capacity was 4,100 tons, and 
her engines of 600 horsepower. The sleeping accommodations were 
excellent, and the meals, although not equal to those on board of the 
French steamer "Qxus," were very acceptable. 

The officers and crew were mostly Italians in the Austrian ser- 
vice, and the Italian was the only language used by them. 

The captain and the doctor spoke English and German also, and 
they were ever ready to give us all desired information. We spent 
many a pleasant hour watching the doctor worrying over a game of 
chess, of which he was passionately fond. Ona or another of the 
passengers was generally his opponent, and during the whole voyage 
I cannot recall his winning a single game. This did not seem to con- 
cern him any, for he appeared just as well pleased as if he had been the 
victor in every contest. * 



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Of passengers there were about sixty in the cabins and probably 
forty in the steerage. They were, like our fellow travelers on the 
"Oxus," from different sections of the Far East and bent on the same 
errands. 

On our two weeks' voyage from Bombay to Suez the elements 
appeared to have taken kindly to us, as bright sunshine and a calm sea 
were our every day companions. Only once, and that was in the Red 
Sea within a day's sail of Suez, did the waters become turbulent and lash 
the white crested waves over the bow of our good ship. But in a few 
hours all was over and we were again gliding along smoothly. 

On the seventh day out we anchored off the coast of Arabia, 
within a quarter of a mile of Aden. We were not allowed to land, as 
we were quarantined against cholera, which was raging to some extent 
at Bombay, whence we had come. 

There is positively nothing attractive in connection with Aden. 
On the contrary, it appears as though it were the most forlorn and des- 
olate place on the face of the earth. I really pity the poor Europeans, 
who are doomed to live there, for they surely waste their lives and 
energies on this spot. Not for the wealth of the Indies would I con- 
sent to make it my permanent home. 

The natives of this inhospitable coast believe that the height of 
beauty consists in the possession of red hair. The score of diving boys 
and men, who were continually in the immediate vicinity of our ship, 
always on the alert for a piece of money to be thrown into the water, 
are the most curious people I ever saw. 

Some of them had their heads covered with a kind of plaster, 
which we were told was made from common lime and which was to pro- 
duce the desired color. 

Others had been successful in dyeing their hair a dull and dirty 
red ; and not a few had taken off the plaster, leaving many large bald 
spots and making them look as if they had gone through a first-class 
hair-pulling match. 



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With the few tufts remaining they had nevertheless gained their 
object, the much admired shade had been secured. 

Shortly after we left Aden we passed through the strait of Bab- 
el-Mandeb into the Red Sea. That same afternoon we sailed within 
sight of Mocha, of delicious coffee renown, and on the thirteenth day 
out from Bombay (the sixth from Aden), we anchored before Suez, 
about three miles from shore. 

Immediately a yellow flag was unfurled to the breeze from the 
top of our main mast, signifying that we were again in quarantine. 
After being delayed twenty-four hours we were allowed to leave the 
ship. We were loaded into a small boat, which soon landed us on 
Egyptian sand. 

Egypt, the land of milk and honey, of the Pyramids, the 
Sphinx, the ancient ruins, the desert sands, the Delta, the Nile, and the 
inundations ; the home of the Egyptian, the Arab, the Bedouin, the 
camel, and last but not least, the donkey, which is a prime factor in 
Egyptian life ! 

The land of the Pharaohs offers a rich field for both the anti- 
quarian and the sight-seer. The grand monuments of ancient times are 
many, and thanks to the present government, they are being protected 
from total destruction by the vandal hand of the importunate relic 
hunter. 

Harper says : " The climate of Egypt is as delightful as it is 
salutary." From my own observations I have only to say that if sore 
eyes, both partial and total blindness, the most oppressive heat during 
the day, and clouds of desert sand filling the air with every little gust 
of wind, with their necessary consequences, are indications of a 
" delighful and salutary climate," why, then to Egypt the palm ought 
to be awarded. 

Diseases of the eyes are the great plague of this country. 
Judging from appearances fully one-half of the population of Lower 
Egypt suffers from such complaints. Along the road from Cairo to 



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the Pyramids of Ghizeb, a distance of about ten miles, I counted forty 
persons, mostly peasants, bringing produce on the backs of camels and 
donkeys to the Cairo markets, who were either blind in one eye or 
had completely lost their sight. 

A kind of inflammation of the eyelids seems to be prevalent, 
especially among the little children, and to see the faces of these-poor 
innocents all daubed up with a black paste or salve, which draws myr- 
iads of flies, is disgusting in the extreme. 

Many of the Egyptian ladies use the above paste as " a toilet," 
they say, but in reality for the purpose of hiding their already affected 
eyes or as a protection against this terrible plague. In the cities the 
Egyptian and Turkish ladies, upon venturing out into the street, cover 
their faces, with the exception of the eyes, the former with a black, the 
latter with a white veil or cloth. 

The really handsome ones, who are undoubtedly as vain as 
their sisters in other countries and love to be admired, will occasionally, 
and especially when out on the Schoobra road for a drive, allow- the 
veil to drop below the rosy lips and expose to the fortunate passer-by 
their faces in all their beauty and loveliness. The Schoobra road is 
one of the main attractions of Cairo. 

While there we had the pleasure of seeing Lord Wolseley (the 
English general) and his daughter Miss Wolseley, the Khedive, 
"Tewfik Pasha," and "Nubar Pasha," one of his generals, also the two 
young sons and the brother of the Khedive. Of the ladies of the 
harem we obtained frequent glimpses, as they could not resist the 
natural longing for admiration. 

Cairo, the capital of Egypt, is, after Damascus, the most Orien- 
tal city in the East, and is one of the most interesting places in 
the world. 

In the native city the bazaars, the dwellings, the manners and 
customs, the dresses, and, in fact, everything is preserved in all its 
Oriental purity. While strolling through the elegant bazaars, the 



149 



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scenes of the Arabian Nights are again and again vividly recalled to 
your mind. A certain fascination seizes you and bids you linger, and 
it is with difficulty that you tear yourself from its magnetic grasp. 

The Franks (European) quarter has fine wide streets and large 
and elegant buildings. In point of amusements it is fully equal to 
the "Over the Rhine" of Cincinnati. The residents, who are mostly 
Italian, French, or Greek, — there are very few English — are a music- 
loving people, and theaters, concert-halls, and other jdaces of 
entertainment are quite numerous. 

"Vienna ladies' and other orchestras furnish excellent music 
and no admission fee is charged in these places, after the manner of 
many public resorts in the large cities of the United States. Native 
singing and dancing combinations, in their weird and romantic 
performances, are met everywhere in Egypt and fairly fascinate the 
stranger. 

The singing, which is almost monotonous and in " sing song " 
style, is a dreary, melancholy, and dirge-like warble, but charms and 
entertains the listener, especially if it be heard for the first time. The 
dancing consists of a series of the most graceful movements of the 
head, arms, and legs, and when executed by a native beauty, has the 
same magical effect as the singing. 

The musical instruments are primitive in their character and 
construction. The only thing attractive about the music itself is its 
strangeness. As for myself, I very much prefer these Oriental enter- 
tainments to the performances of the East Indian nautch girls, snake- 
charmers or necromancers. 

Cairo, with its numerous and magnificent palaces, and the 
domes, cupolas, and minarets of its four hundred mosques, presents 
from the citadel one of the grandest views imaginable. The citadel, 
wliich at present is garrisoned by English troops, contains the famous 
mosque of Mehemet Ali, generally acknowledged to be as beautiful as 
the Mosque of Santa Sophia at Constantinople, though not as large. 



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The Sultan Hassan Mosque, one of the oldest and finest in 
Cairo, is considered to be, from an architectural standpoint, a great 
work of art. The appreciative Sultan, upon the completion of this 
grand structure, ordered the hands of the poor architect who drew the 
plans to be amputated for no reason but to incapacitate him from 
constructing another. 

We also visited the School Mosque, where fully a thousand of 
the faithful, from the youth to the graybeard, were deeply engaged in 
poring over the Koran. They study hard, for every good Moslem is 
supposed to know the Koran by heart. It is one of the religious 
qualifications for heaven. 

The buzzing, humming noise, that greeted us upon entering, 
can be likened unto that emanating from a dozen bee-hives. We were 
several times loudly hissed at, undoubtedly by secret sympathizers of 
El Mahdi, they mistaking. us for Englishmen. 

The Mosque of Omar, at old Cairo, built about twelve hundred 
years ago, is now partly in ruins. The support of its roofs and domes 
consist of three hundred and sixty-five large stone columns, one of 
which, according to our guide's statement, was thrown by Mohammed, 
the prophet, from Mecca to old Cairo through the air. It landed in 
the exact position intended for it. The imprint of the prophet's hand 
is shown to all travelers. 

Our guide was very much surprised at my hesitancy in believing 
this Munchhausen story. I, however, brought calmness to his troubled 
features by saying : 

" Yes, Allah is great, and Mohammed is his prophet ; surely 
there is nothing impossible for him." 

In our strolls around Cairo we visited a large number of 
mosques, schools and tombs, also the magnificent palace of the Khedive 
at Ghezireh, the highly interesting museum of antiquities at Boulak, 
containing numerous mummies, and jewelry, found in the tombs. 



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151 



Some ancient sculptures exhibited in this museum are said to be over 
six thousand years old. 

Through the influence of a liberal amount of " baksheesh " we 
were enabled to visit the stables, carriage houses, harness rooms, etc., 
of the Khedive. The stables did not come up to my expectations, and 
the horses — about thirty-odd, mostly of English and French breed — 
were not what might be termed fine. The six or eight Arab saddle- 
horses that we saw there, lacked most of the fine equine points, which 
go to make our fancy Kentucky thoroughbred. 

The harness and carriages were elegant, and must have been 
very costly with their heavy gold and silver mountings and trimmings. 
They are all of English or French make and pattern. 

Of course, we visited the Pyramids and ascended the " Great " 
one, a most laborious task even with the aid of three men to 
boost you. We also explored the inside of it, to the Kings' 
and Queens' chambers, and the well. The journey proved to be 
anything but easy. The Sphinx and the surrounding ruins were 
not forgotten. I will not worry the reader with a description, be- 
cause everybody is undoubtedly familiar with the history, construction, 
etc., of these the greatest of all ancient monuments. There is a fine 
road leading from Cairo to the Pyramids. The distance can be 
covered in about an hour and a half. 

At the time of our visit Cairo was full of English soldiers, 
who were being withdrawn from the upper Nile, and transported 
via Suez and the Red Sea to Suakim, which had been chosen for 
the centre of operations for the Khartoum Campaign. The Nile 
expedition was a disastrous one and was looked upon at Cairo as a 
clear case of mismanagement. The English were by no means 
kindly spoken of either by the natives or by the resident foreigners. 

Alexandria, although a mere shadow of its ancient self, is a 
bustling city of some three hundred thousand inhabitants. It is 
the commercial centre of Egypt and does an extensive business. 



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There are more foreigners there than in Cairo, and of about the 
same complexion. As to amusements it is fully as well supplied 
as the latter city. The ruin and desolation caused by Arabi Pasha 
and his hordes during the last uprising, are plainly visible on all 
sides, forming a decidedly melancholy picture. The grand square 
of the Consuls, which was laid in ashes by Arabi's men, was being 
rebuilt. The forts are in a very dilapidated condition, the result 
of the effective hot-shot poured into them by the English men-of- 
war, under the command of Sir Beauchamp Seymour. 

Pompey's pillar, the ruins of the palace of Cleopatra and some 
ancient tombs are, on account of their old historical fame, objects of 
great interest. 

Suez at the southern and Port Said at the northern extremity 
of the Suez Canal offer no interesting sights for the traveler. The 
canal, although a great work, is in appearance the same as any 
other canal, only wider and deej^er, and the banks consist of the 
everlasting desert sands. A large number of vessels pass through 
here annually. The receipts for toll for the year 1884 were about 
$14,000,000. 



V. 



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fUXAH WOMEH IK MISO f ' «•• > mtAH WtWH M CMHe 



**\ 



Chapter XV. 



PalGstinE, ttiE Hnly Land. 



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gftW OARDING the Egyptian steamer Rhamanieh, 
of the " Khedive " line, at four o'clock in the 
afternoon, we were soon steaming from Alex- 
andria for Palestine. On the second morning 
at eight o'clock we were at Howard's Hotel at Jaffa, the harbor of Je- 
rusalem, stopping en route about nine hours at Port Said. 

We immediately made all necessary arrangements with Mr. 
Howard for our inland tour, and on the same afternoon, at two o'clock, 
we were being jolted through the Plain of Sharon in a three-in-hand 
top-wagon, which reminded us forcibly of a pensioned cart. 

At Pamleh, two and one half hours' ride from Jaffa, we made a 
short halt for the purpose of watering the horses and arrived at Lat- 
roon, the half-way station, where we put up for the night, at six in the 
evening. The next morning at five o'clock we were already climbing 
the mountains; the road leading through them was in a horrible condi- 
tion, and walking was decidedly preferable to riding. We landed safely 
at the hotel in Jerusalem at half-past eleven o'clock in the morning. 



155 



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156 



Palestine, the Holy Land, the Land of the Christian, Moham- 
medan, and Jewish pilgrims, the land of sacred history, of the Crusa- 
ders, of the Saracens. What a contrast between the Palestine of the 
present and that of the almost forgotten past! Nothing is left of its 
former greatness. All has vanished. Time, the destroyer of all, has 
accomplished his task. 

A few dilapidated stone columns are pointed out to you as relics 
of the once greatest structure of man, — Solomon's Temple. It has 
been estimated that the present city of Jerusalem is built on the debris 
fully forty feet above the Jerusalem of Solomon's time and, perhaps, 
thirty feet above the city, where was spent so much of the life of 
Jesus Christ. 

This does not in the least interfere with the designation of the 
thousand and one " exact spots," where transpired the great events con- 
nected with both sacred and profane history. 

The main object of interest in Jerusalem for the Christian is the 
Church of the Holy Sepulchre, a combination of churches, chapels, 
and shrines, all under one roof. The Greek, Latin (Roman Catholic), 
Armenian, Syrian, and Copt denominations have their respective places 
of worship within the same walls. 

The chapel of the Greek Christians is by far the largest and 
most magnificent. It is beautifully and expensively ornamented with 
decorations of gold and silver, precious stones and fine paintings. 

The chapel of the Roman Catholics cannot be compared with 
that of the Greeks. 

The other sects are represented by simple shrines, with few or- 
naments and decorations. 

In this church' is the tomb of Jesus Christ, a grand and im- 
posing monument, with the most elaborate and costly embellishments, 
presenting a view that is as beautiful as it is sublime. When entering 
this, the most sacred spot on earth, a strange feeling, overcomes the 
visitor. We were at once given to reflections of the past, and when 



J 




SPHINX AND HfrtAMIDS 



_/* EGYPT &> \_ 



DIE SPHINX UHO PYRAMIOEt. 



: ^M^i£iMi 










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contemplating the sad fate of our Savior on .Calvary we became 
depressed and melancholy, and left with heavy hearts. 

Calvary, the place of the finding of the cross, the stone of unc- 
tion, and numerous other places, chapels, altars, and tombs, connected 
wi.h the life and death of Christ, are pointed out by the guides. This, 
the holiest place for the Christian, is often the site of the most disgust- 
ing scenes between the different religious sects. They are continually 
at war with each other, so that peace in and about the the holy sepul- 
chre seldom prevails. 

Other points of interest in and around Jerusalem are " Mount 
Zion," where arc located David's tomb and the site of the " Last 
Supper," the ruins of the "Muristan," founded by Charlemagne as a 
monastery, which the knights of St. John during the time of the 
crusades turned into a hospital; the " Ilaram cl Shcrif" or the 
" 2Toble Canctuary," which takes up fully one-fourth of old Jerusalem, 
and contains the site of Solomon's temple ; the " Dome of the Rock," 
where can be seen the great rock, fifty-seven feet long, forty-three feet 
wide, and rising six and one-half feet above the ground. The Mos- 
lems claim that this rock fell from heaven, never touched the earth, but 
was kept suspended in the air. Their explanation for the presence of 
the stone pillars upon which it now rests, is, that they were put there 
for the purpose of protecting the stone in case of an earth. quake ! 
From this stone Mohammed is said to have ascended to heaven, and 
Jesus Christ is reported as having prayed there. The " Dome of the 
Rock " mosque is one of the finest in the East. The mosque " LI 
Aksa " or " Omar's Mosque," is also a grand structure. 

The Jews' wailing-place is outside of the " Plaram," at the 
foundation of the " Mosque of Omar." This wall is believed to be a 
part of Solomon's Temple, and here may be seen daily, especially Fri- 
days, large numbers of devout Israelites, weeping and lamenting over 
the destruction of the temple, giving vent to heart-rending wailings. 
It is a sad scene. 



^ 

158 

Passing out of St. Stephen's gate on the eastern side of the city, 
we behold the valley and tombs of Jehosaphat, the tomb and chapel of 
the Virgin Mary, and numerous other tombs; the Mount of Olives, with 
the two gardens of the Gethsemane, the one belonging to the Greeks 
and the other to the Latins. The finest view of Jerusalem can be ob- 
tained from the Mount of Olives. 

Bethany, of great Christian renown, is situated about two miles 
from there. The "Golden Gate," through which Jesus is said to have 
entered Jerusalem, is walled up. The tombs of the kings and the 
judges are a short distance beyond the Damascus gate. There are 
many other points of interest in and around Jerusalem, but it would be 
utterly impossible for me to enumerate them. 

I cannot help admiring the very great interest the Russian gov- 
ernment has taken in the many pilgrims who go there from Russia. 
The Quadrangle erected by it near the Jaffa gate, on the finest piece 
of ground near Jerusalem, consists of elegant churches, an immense 
"hospice," and hospital buildings. They are open to the Greek pil- 
grims who receive there food, lodging and treatment in case of sickness 
without charge. At New Jericho, near the Jordan river, they have 
also erected an extensive hospice for the accommodation of pilgrims. 

The streets of Jerusalem are in a horrible condition. They are 
paved with jaggy rocks, and walking on them is very difficult, es- 
pecially in cases of "corned" feet. For our second day's trip through 
the town we procured donkeys; but we had not proceeded very far, be- 
fore the one I was riding took a slide and went down, carrying me 
with him. 

We had a grand roll-around in the street. Fortunately, with 
the exception of a slight abrasion of the epidermis of the donkey's off 
hind-leg, nothing serious came of the fall. I did not mount again. 
From Jerusalem we proceeded on horseback, a tedious ride of six hours, 
over the worst and dreariest of roads to Jericho and encamped alongside 
the fountain of St. Elisha. We had obtained an elegant outfit from Mr. 



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Howard, at Jaffa, consisting of three tents (a sleeping, a saloon and 
a kitchen tent) nine horses and five donkeys and first-class refresh- 
ments. Our manager and guide, " Raphael Massoud Farah," a Syrian 
from Beyrout gave excellent satisfaction. From our camp we made 
trips to the Dead Sea and the Jordan River, the former a two hours' 
ride through the plain of Jordan and the latter one hour's ride further 
on. On the Jordan River, at the supposed side of the baptism of Jesus 
Christ, is the bathing-place of the pilgrims, and we saw fully fifty of 
them, of the Greek persuasion, engaged in singing and praying while 
the waters of the Jordan were "washing away their sins." 

"When traveling overland in this country you are compelled to 
procure the services of a " sheik " as a guard ; he guarantees you protec- 
tion against the highwaymen, who are said to infest the roads. Our 
" sl»eik" was a fine fellow, and, in his fantastic costume, mounted on 
his thoroughbred Arab, presented a very picturesque appearance. On 
the last evening of our stay at the camp we were visited by about 
fifty " Bedouins," men, women and children, from the plain. They 
sang their Arab songs and executed several of their characteristic dan- 
ces. Their dress and features reminded us of a band of robbers, and 
their singing and dancing were wild and weird in the extreme. Such 
a sight once seen will never be forgotten. 

After three days sojourn in " Camp " we returned to Jerusalem, 
highly pleased with all our adventures. We next visited Bethlehem. 
The " Church of the Nativity " is, like the " Holy Sepulchre," a combi- 
nation of buildings, belonging to the different sects. Here the Latins 
excell in the beauty and size of their church. The cave of the 
" Nativity " is underneath the old church, built by Saint Helena, the 
mother of Constantine the Great, in the early part of the fourth cen- 
tury, and is the oldest Christian Church in the world. A silver star 
marks the spot where Christ was born. Directly opposite is the 
manger, and although it has been generally conceded that the " origi- 
nal manger " is in the church of St. Maria Magiore in Rome, this 






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fictitious one answers the same purpose as. the original, and is wor- 
shiped accordingly. There are numerous tombs, grottoes and crypts, 
including the celebrated "milk" grotto, where the Virgin Mary with 
the child hid from Herod. The grotto of the shepherds, the pools of 
Solomon and numerous other sites are in the immediate vicinity of 
Bethlehem. The tomb of Rachel is situated about half-way between 
the two holy cities. 

One of the necessary evils of that country is the muleteer or 
donkey-driver, whose services you are compelled to engage when tak- 
ing a ride on a donkey. His occupation consists in running behind 
the donkey and by pushes, twists of the tail, pokes with a stick or a 
crack with a whip driving him forward. Without his assistance "mule 
back " riding would be slow traveling. 

At Jerusalem we stopped at the Hotel Feil which is finely situ- 
ated outside of the walls, and within a stones throw of the Russian 
" Quadrangle." It was under the management of the proprietor, Mr. 
Feil himself, and the accommodations were very good. Mr. Feil is a 
German from Suabia, but has resided in Palestine for over twenty-five 
years and has accumulated quite a snug little fortune. 

Having satisfied our curiosity in and around Jerusalem we again 
packed our bundles, mounted our wagon and started off for Jaffa 
at one o'clock in the afternoon. Toward evening we arrived at Lat - 
roon, where a good warm supper awaited us, and where we stopped 
for the night. 

_ Early next morning we were again en route, and arrived safely 
at Howard's Hotel at noon, in time for dinner. The next morning at 
ten o'clock we were quartered on board the Austrian Lloyd steamer 
Vesta, fully prepared for v our voyage to Constantinople. At noon we 
weighed anchor and were off. 



V, 




HUCrxEHR EIME3 PJLr ; ; RJUGES VON MEHU 



Chapter XVI. 



BEyrnut, the GrGcian AchipElann, 
Smyrna and CnnetantinnplE. 



161 



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OOD fortune was again with us during this 
voyage. We made the trip from Jaffa, in 
Palestine, on board the "Vesta," in eight 
5^_ days, without accident or storm. The ship 
was literally packed. Many of the cabin-passengers were obliged to 
accept quarters for the night on the sofas in the dining-saloons. 
The steerage contained about six hundred Arabian and Turkish re- 
cruits, who were being conveyed to Constantinople and Salonica for 
service in the army. The Arabians, in their varied colored, and ro- 
mantic costumes, were singing and dancing day and night, sometimes 
going to excesses, which the Turkish officers quickly checked ; it was a 
sight as picturesque as it was novel and interesting. Between the Arabs 
and the Turks there is not a very warm or kindly feeling, consequently 
scuffles and fights were numerous and frequent, without any serious re- 
sults, however. The cabin passengers represented twenty different na- 
tions. The Americans, numbering fifteen including several Canadians, 
were in the lead. 



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On the morning of the second day out we cast anchor off Bey- 
rout, "the beautiful," situated at the foot of the mountains of Lebanon, 
whose snow-capped peaks glistened in the sunshine. Beyrout is a great 
summer resort for invalids, who, under the benign influence of its mild 
and salutary climate, are generally very much benefited. It was from 
the mountains of Lebanon that the " cedars of Lebanon," used in the 
construction of Solomon's Temple, were brought.. 

There we accepted an invitation from our guide, Raphael Mas- 
soud Farah, to visit his family. They resided in a suite of rooms in 
the fourth story of a large building on the top of one of the numerous 
hills upon which Beyrout is built. From the house we had a fine view 
of the city, together with the harbor and the famous mountains of Leb- 
anon. The father of Raphael is a prominent oculist. Judging 
from the stream of patients, who were continually going to and 
coming from his consulting rooms, he must have an immense practice. 
During our call the doctor was kept so busy that it was utterly impos- 
sible for him to give us much attention. 

Upon being introduced to him he appeared to be highly pleased, 
especially so, when we told him that his son had given us such excellent 
satisfaction. The doctor deeply regretted his inability to have a long 
chat with us, and so did we, for he seemed to be learned and well 
informed. 

Our hostess, the mother of Raphael, gave us a most cordial re- 
ception, as did also her two daughters and her daughter-in-law. They 
were all comfortably seated on large, sofa-like chairs, and busily en- 
gaged in smoking their large Turkish pipes. The young ladies were 
noble specimens of Syrian beauty. They were of medium height and 
proportionate build. Their complexion was of a light brown color, 
with coal black hair and eyes. Taken all in all they were very inter- 
esting and, indeed, beautiful. 

With the aid of Raphael, who acted as interpreter, we were 
enabled to carry on quite a lively conversation with them and were 



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surprised at their education and general knowledge of things. They all 
belonged to the so-called Syrian Christian Church, of which they 
were good and regularly attending members. Raphael, in particular, 
was very strict in the observance of his religious duties. A Mohammedan 
or any other non-Christian was despicable in his eyes. 

His father had intended to have him study and follow in his foot- 
steps as an oculist, but he preferred a roving life. His occupation as 
guide and interpreter suited him exactly. He claimed that it was very 
remunerative, and that during a season of five or six months he could 
earn sufficient to keep himself comfortably for the whole year. 

To give an idea of Eastern hospitality I will relate how we 
were entertained during our call. After having taken seats, one of the 
young ladies passed a plate of assorted cakes around, after which candy 
and lemonade were served. We had scarcely finished these dainties, 
when we were requested to help ourselves to some fine fruit, to do 
which we did not require much coaxing. While eating this choice 
fruit, Raphael insisted on our partaking of some German beer, which 
he had purposely procured and cooled for our benefit. Although as a 
general thing fruit and beer do not harmonize, we were nevertheless 
compelled to indulge, come what may. A cup of the most delicious 
Turkish coffee concluded this, to us, queer luncheon. The good 
people wanted to do too much for us, and thereby got things pretty 
badly mixed up. 

In taking our departure we were compelled to make solemn 
promises that we would frequently write to them after having arrived 
home safely. Raphael, of whom we had grown very fond, accom- 
panied us to the steamer. When bidding us a last farewell he burst 
into tears, in spite of all that he could do to control himself. He stood 
on shore, his eyes watching us until we were out of sight. 

On our way from Beyrout to Smyrna we made short stops at the 
island of Cyprus, England's latest acquisition in the Mediterranean 
Sea ; Rhodus, in the harbor of which the spot where the great Colossus, 



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one of the Seven Wonders of the World, once stood, was pointed out 
to us; and Chios, the scene of recent earthquakes. We also passed 
within sight of the islands of Cos, Patmos, and Samos, prominent in 
ancient Greek history and mythology. 

Smyrna, where we were compelled to lay for two days, is not an 
attractive city. Along the wharves there are a number of fine build- 
ings, mostly occupied as hotels, cafe's, and places of amusement. Be- 
yond this, with the exception of the Armenian quarter, which contains 
many neat and substantial houses and clean streets, the city is a labyrinth 
of dirty, narrow streets and poorly built small houses. 

Smyrna is the great commercial port of Asia Minor. During 
the day the wharf and the bazaars, which are very extensive, are crow- . 
ded with people, giving the whole an appearance of business activity. 
The concert halls and gardens and other places of amusement offer 
good entertainments and are liberally patronized. Our guide, a Greek, 
whose only name as far as we know was " Greek George," informed us 
that on the day before our arrival Smyrna was considerably excited on 
account of the appearance in the harbor of a great curiosity. It was 
nothing more nor less than an American man-of-war, the first that 
had anchored off the city .in three years. 

At Ephesus, the cradle of Hellenic mythology, two and a half 
hours by rail from Smyrna, there are several ruins of vaults, which 
mark the spot where once stood the famous temple of Diana. Eight 
of the columns were used in the building of Saint Sophia at Con- 
stantinople, where they are to be seen to this day. 

From Smyrna we sailed via Mitylene, Tenedos, and within sight 
of the plains of ancient Troy on our right, into and through the 
Dardanelles and the Sea of Marmora, to the Bosphorus and Constan- 
tinople. The voyage from Bhodus through the Grecian archipelago, 
among the numerous islands rich in mythological stories and events, 
renowned in ancient and mediaeval history, and abounding in rare 
beauties of natural scenery, was indeed delightful. 



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At sunrise, on the eighth day from Jaffa, we steamed by San 
Stefano, the scene of the conclusion of the last Russo-Turkish war, 
and the Turkish capital loomed up before us. The sublime beauty of 
the great city from the Sea of Marmora is worthy of the thousands of 
praises that have been sung in its honor. It is so infinitely grand and 
charming, so marvelously beautiful, as to almost baffle description. 

We availed ourselves of the opportunity offered to ascend the 
high hill of " Bulgurlu," directly back of Scutari, on the Asiatic side 
of the Bosphorus, and from here a panorama unfolded itself before our 
eyes, the like of which we had never seen before. 

At our feet lay Scutari with its suburbs ; to the left the sea of 
Marmora spread out to San Stefano in the distance; immediately in 
front of us rolled the famous Bosphorus, on whose banks on the opposite 
side, two and a half miles away, the great city of the Sultan extends for 
miles and miles; also the "Golden Horn," glittering in the bright sunlight 
like burnished gold, on the lower side of which is Stamboul, with her 
hundreds of domes and minarets and its celebrated Seraglio Point in 
the foreground ; on the upper side Pera, with the suburbs of Galata and 
Tophana and beyond this, along the shore of the Bosphorus, a long line 
of the most magnificent royal palaces. All combined formed a picture 
lovely almost beyond belief. " It beats Naples, you know," remarked 
an English traveler, whom we chanced to meet on Bulgurlu. 

Constantinople is not as interesting a city as Cairo. It has be- 
come too much Europeanized so to speak. The Turks are even aban- 
doning their national costumes and adopting the styles of other coun- 
tries. The " red fez " is worn by both Turks and Christians. The 
great bazaar at Stamboul, although well worth a visit, lacks the oriental 
charm and novel attractiveness which so fascinates the visitor in the 
same locality in Cairo. 

The Turkish women adhere to and observe their old styles of 
dressing. When walking along the streets, with white veils tied across 
their faces below the eyes and dressed in a habit, generally of a dark 



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colored material, which is thrown over them like a masquerade domino, 
they look exactly like an inflated baloon turned upside down. Their 
walk has nothing of grace about it, on the contrary it closely resembles 
the ungainly waddle of a goose. 

Prince Bluecher of "Wahlstadt, a descendant of the great 
Bluecher, who was stopping at the Hotel d' Angleterre with us, and 
who was again visiting Constantinople after an absence of twenty 
years, said with evident disgust, when he returned from a tour through 
Stamboul : " Heavens, how they have spoiled Constantinople since I 
was here last." By this he meant that he had found Constantinople 
more like a common place European city than the Oriental metropolis 
of years before. 

Pera is the Christian suburb, mostly inhabited by Greeks, al- 
though the French and Italians are largely represented. There are 
also a number of Americans, English, and Germans. The Grand Rue 
de Pera is the principal street, on each side of which are large and ele- 
gant buildings and fine stores. There is great business activity along 
this thoroughfare. From morning to night it is packed with people 
and conveyances of all kinds. 

We were fortunately in Constantinople on the night of the illu- 
mination of all the mosques. This occurs but once a year. We visited 
Saint Sophia, the largest mosque in the world, on this evening, and viewed 
it with its thousands and thousands of lights. It was a great sight. 

On that evening there appeared a ring of light about a foot 
wide, at least it looked so from the ground, from every one of the nu- 
merous minarets in the city, at about one-fourth the distance from the 
top of the minarets to the ground. These rings had the appearance of 
hoops of brightly polished gold. The effect was very pretty. 

Friday is the Mohammedan Sunday. On this day, at about noon, 
his Sultanic Majesty drives to his private mosque, situated near his 
palaces, on the banks of the Bosphorus. His permanent residence is 
on the hill to the north of Pera, about one mile from the mosque. Our 



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guide, Pericles Sittiri, an antiquated Greek, secured for us for this 
occasion an elegant open hack with a pair of fine horses, in gold- 
mounted harness. The driver, of course, was in livery to match. At 
eleven o'clock we arrived at the place where the Sultan was to pass and 
stationed ourselves where we could see everything. By noon 
hundreds of carriages had taken up positions in the vicinity where we 
were. Both sides of the streets as far as we could see were lined with 
spectators. We anxiously awaited the coming of events, because we 
had been informed that, preceding the arrival of his majesty, a grand 
military procession would pass by. Shortly after the noon hour a loud 
trumpet blast reached our ears. " They come ! they come !" was shouted 
from all sides. And they did come. Their coming did not, however, 
stagger our party. 

The advance guard consisted of about one hundred cavalry soldiers 
in Cossack uniforms, badly mounted and poorly clad. They were pre- 
ceded by twelve buglers, who were evidently trying to sound some 
call or announce some order, but the noise was terrible. After the Cos- 
sacks came several fine coupes, each drawn by two very attractive 
horses. The occupants of these carriages were gayly uniformed and 
were said to be high officials of State. After an interval of about twenty 
minutes, the sound of music — but what music it was ! We would not have 
recognized it as such had not our guide volunteered the information — 
heralded the approach of another squad. This crowd was even worse 
than the first. It was made up of several hundred foot soldiers, miser- 
ably clothed in a coarse, dark-blue uniform, wearing the red fez for head 
covering. They were really a pitiable looking set. Their marching- 
was in harmony with their appearance. They trotted along like so 
many sheep, regardless of order, without keeping in line and apparently 
unconscious of what the music was for. 

Next came the Minister of war, with a staff or escort of about 
thirty men who were richly uniformed and mounted on splendid char- 
gers. Then came the Sultana's body guard, fully a thousand strong, 



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dressed in a greenish, Turkish-cut uniform, with turbans to match. 
About twenty buglers and a brass band of forty pieces led them. The 
buglers had everything their own way when they passed our carriage 
and were bugling for all that was out. Following this came the Sul- 
tana's carriage surrounded by a large crowd of men, women and chil- 
dren. The elegant coup§ was drawn by two black Arabian steeds. 
Inside was seated her majestic Highness, dispensing, accordingto an old 
custom, alms to the poor who were following her. Very little could 
be seen of this distinguished personage, as she had her face closely 
tied up. The Sultana is not the wife of the Sultan as is generally be- 
lieved. His mother wears the title and enjoys the honors. 

The next thing on the programme was the straggling by of seve- 
ral hundred more miserable soldiers on foot, who looked for all the 
world as though they were lost. These had scarcely passed before a 
large troup of nicely uniformed cavalry appeared upon the scene, fol- 
lowed by a magnificent carriage drawn by two superb horses. Behind 
came another similar troop of cavalry. The carriage had but two occu- 
pants, the Sultan and the Grand Vizier. On account of our favorable 
position we managed to get a good look at both. The Sultan is not a 
handsome man by any means, nor is he the picture of health ; on the 
contrary he looked as though the weight of his Sultanic duties pressed 
heavily upon him. Our guide, who claimed to have his information 
from an authentic source, stated that the Sultan is a big coward, and is 
continually trembling in his boots for fear that he will be poisoned or 
will otherwise meet with a violent death. 

Many carriages followed the Sultan's immediate escort, in one of 
which was seated the Sultan's son and his tutor. The other vehicles 
contained different officials. Last, but by no means least, came three 
horses belonging to the Sultan. They were being led to the mosque 
where his majesty chooses his animal in case he desires to return to his 
palace on horse-back after the religious services are concluded. These 
horses, the one snow white and the other two jet black, were the most 



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beautiful animals I ever laid my eyes upon. If there is such a thing as 
a perfect horse, judging from appearances, these then were perfect. Of 
their speed, bottom and other qualities I could not gain any informa- 
tion. Otherwise, however, nothing I ever saw in the shape of horse- 
flesh can compare with them. 

It was two o'clock when we reached the Hotel on our return. At 
three o'clock, by which time we had partaken of a hearty dinner during 
which one of the lady guests remarked to one of her gentlemen neigh- 
bors at the table : " Oh my ! how fast they are serving the courses. 
They don't give a person time to digest them," (poor thing,) we were 
again fixed in our flashy turn-out and started for the "Sweet "Waters/ 
a most lovely little green and shady valley through which a limpid 
stream courses, emptying its sweet waters into the Golden Horn. This 
valley is situated some five miles from Pera. The roads through it are 
the fashionable drives of Constantinople. % 

Every Friday and Saturday afternoon, especially on the former 
day, there is a grand exodus of the beauty and wealth of Constantinople 
to this locality. When we arrived, there were two long lines of vehicles, 
carriages and coupes predominating, slowly moving in opposite direc- 
tions and so close together that the occupants of the opposite vehicles in 
the different lines could shake hands without leaving their seats. The 
main attraction were the ladies of the harems, of whom we noticed sev- 
eral hundred. They were being driven up and down in elegant coupes 
by gaudily liveried coachmen. Of course we immediately joined the 
procession and critically inspected the Turkish beauties as they passed. 
The harem ladies have no escorts and are not allowed to tarry in the 
valley after seven o'clock in the evening. 

Of the proverbial beauty and loveliness of the harem women, I 
did not see much and but few of them, at least in my opinion, Avould 
be winners in a beauty show. 

But one magnificent coupe carried two ladies who were the ob- 
served of all observers and set more than one heart to fluttering. They 



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were the personification of all that is graceful and lovely. They were 
certainly the handsomest women I had ever seen. We were informed 
that they belonged to the harem of one of the high officers of state, 
who was insanely jealous of them and always managed to be near them 
when they were out for a ride or drive. They are said to be the most 
beautiful women in all Turkey. Rumor had it that the poor Sultan was 
very much smitten with these beauties. 

We left Constantinople on the Steamer Flora and after fourteen 
hours' steaming through the Bosphorus and the Black Sea, landed at 
the Port of Varna on the Eastern Coast of Bulgaria. From here we 
went by rail to Rutschuck on the Danube. We crossed the river in a 
small steamer to Giorgevo, in Roumania. From thence the Oriental 
Express carried us to Vienna where we arrived forty-nine hours after 
leaving Constantinople. 



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Jtw'3 WAlUHG PUCE Itl jEft'JBALEM 



JH> PALESTINE ^C 



HUWIAU IbB JJUtN I N JtHUbULbM 



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Chapter XVII. 



Frnm ViEnna tn Cincinnati. 



173 




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OVING on in our final tour through Europe, 
which consumed five weeks, we traveled from 
Vienna to Munich, from there to Strasburg, 
and then to Bischweiler in Alsace. In the last- 
named city we met with the most cordial reception at the hands of the 
Rinkenbcrger family, to whom we had letters of introduction from 
several of the members of that family, who have located in America 
and are intimate friends of ours. We had originally intended to make 
our stay two days, but prolonged the visit to six. Every morning 
there was some new surprise in store for us, each one vieing with the 
others iu showing us attentions. Our entertainment could not have 
been more generous. 

A large hunting-wagon was at our disposal, in which we made 
delightful excursions into the surrounding country and along the banks 
of the beautiful and romantic river Rhine. No pains were spared by 
these friends to make our visit pleasant and they succeeded admirably. 
It was with no little regret that we bade these kind people farewell and 
resumed our journey. 



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From Bischweiler we journeyed to Mayence, from there to 
Frankfort-on-the-Main, and then back to Mayence again. Almost one 
whole day, from morning until evening, was spent on the Rhine in 
reaching Cologne from Mayence. A delightful May day, combined 
with the famous Rhenish scenery, made the trip one long to be 
remembered. From Cologne we traveled to Berlin, thence to Dres- 
den, Bayreuth, and Nuremberg. At Nuremberg we spent the time 
gloriously in the company and under the direction of my dear friends 
Ferdinand Carl, the proprietor and editor of the " Hopfenzeitung," the 
official organ of the extensive hop trade of the continent of Europe, 
P. Marlier, J. Hoffner, and Hans Bauriedel, three successful business 
men. They had been my most intimate associates during the years 
1869, 1870, 1871, when I attended school in that city. This was our 
first meeting since the fall of 1871. After a separation of fourteen 
years the re-union was indeed a happy one. 

Events and escapades of days gone by were recalled and related to 
the enjoyment of my traveling companions. Our parting was truly pain- 
ful, and we all fervently wished for another meeting in the near future. 

From Nuremberg our course lay to Stuttgart, Carlsruhe, Stras- 
burg, Paris, London, and Liverpool. In all cities mentioned we 
stopped over long enough to obtain a correct idea of their appearance 
and also to view many of the interesting sights for which they are 
noted. But so much has been written of these European cities by the 
hundreds of travelers who yearly visit them, that I deem it wholly 
unnecessary to enter upon a detailed account, and they are therefore 
passed with only a mention, so that the continuity of our trip might 
not be broken. 

On June 20th we embarked from Liverpool on the finest and 

. fleetest of all ocean steamers, the so-far invincible "Etruria." A dense 

fog which we encountered after we had covered about one-half of the 

distance across the Atlantic in extraordinary fast time, prevented us 

from making the customary quick passage for which the steamer has 



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become famous. "We steamed into the harbor of New York after the 
ninth day out. When the custom house officers boarded the steamer 
they had with them a party of friends from Cincinnati, who had come 
to New York as a reception committee. They were Messrs. August 
Wittgenfeld, Frank Tucker, Frank Rattermann, and John Moerlein. 
Our greeting was warm and hearty ; and our feelings at again grasping 
the hands of old friends, and seeing their familiar faces after 
such a journey "around the world," can very readily be imagined. 

After a short rest in New York we started home on July 1st, 
at four o'clock in the afternoon, and arrived the following afternoon at 
the Little Miami depot in Cincinnati, where a host of relatives and 
friends were on hand to meet us. After the usual handshakings and 
congratulations we hastened to the sacred family circle, there to discuss 
and relate our adventures. Thus ended our journey. We had accom- 
plished our task without serious mishap or misfortune, not only 
benefited physically, but with our minds improved, and altogether 
well satisfied with the successful ending of our " Trip around the 
World." 



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Appendix. 



Our Illustrations. 

The Hotel Charges. 

A Table of Distances. 



V 179 ) 










— ■ . 




CONVEYANCES IN ASIA MINOR 



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JAPANESE CURI08ITY-SH0P. 

A Japanese curiosity-shop is a sight worth seeing. Filled with 
curios of all kinds imaginable, one scarcely knows which way to 
turn or what to buy. Coats of mail, different styles of weapons, bric- 
a-brac without limit, platters, plates and vases of wood, stone and 
metal, in fact almost every thing conceivable greets the eye. Buy you 
must when you once enter, for the attendants will annoy you to death 
unless you do. 

JAPANESE FISH MARKET. 

Fish are one of the principal articles of food among the Japanese. 
The fish stalls are large and well patronized. The illustration shows 
the buyer, proprietor and a peddler, also a traveling musician who has 
stopped to rest. 

JAPANESE TEA HOUSE. 

The picture correctly portrays a Japanese tea house or roadside 
inn. The front is open while the rear is lattice work. Tea and saki 
(a liquor distilled from rice) are sold to the passing travelers. A 
number of the latter can be seen resting on benches. The female 
figures are those of the attendants. 



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JAPANESE LADY ASLEEP. 

Japanese ladies' manner of sleeping would be rather incon- 
venient for their American sisters. The head rest is a hollowed, padded 
block, about three inches wide, so constructed as to fit the neck. The 
lady reclines as illustrated. This is done to protect the hair, in the 
dressing of which much time is spent. 

JAPANESE WEAVING SILK. 

In Japan silk-weaving is almost entirely in the hands of women. 
Their machinery is very simple and primitive, but the finest and most 
beautiful patterns imaginable are produced. Their work in this direc- 
tion is something remarkable. 

JAPANESE CHILDREN. 

Japanese village children are often found in large groups under 
the charge of some old grandmother as appears in the illustration. 
Those in the picture are of all ages and sizes, but their sex can not be 
distinguished by their dress. Some of the children carry babies on 
their backs. The different styles of cutting the hair are well illustrated. 

FREIGHT TRANSPORTATION IN JAPAN. 

Freight is transported in Japan as illustrated in the picture. 
Very heavy loads, more than enough for one horse, are placed on a 
dray-like truck which is drawn or shoved by two or three coolies. 
When too heavily loaded a rope is attached to the truck and thus 
the wagon is pulled. 

JAPANESE JINRIKSHA. 

The Jinriksha is rather a simple though peculiar contrivance. 
As a matter of fact, it is nothing more nor less than a large-sized baby 
carriage. The one in the picture is occupied by a lady whose husband 
is walking by her side. They are evidently on a shopping tour. 



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JAPANESE LADY HAIR-DRESSER. 

A Japanese lady hair-dresser will spend almost half a day on 
one customer's head of hair. These people go around from house to 
house among the wealthy classes. The picture is that of a lady having 
her hair dressed while she is watching the operation iu a mirror. A 
thick paste-like substance is used to keep' the hair in place. 

JAPANESE BARBERS. 

Japanese barbers are not far behind their Christian brethren as 
tousorial artists. They do their work quickly and well. One incon- 
venient thing is to compel the customer to hold a dish or basin under 
the chin, as illustrated. Foreigners, however, are not required to 
thus assist the barber. 

JAPANESE CARPENTER-SHOP. 

A Japanese carpenter or cabinet-maker works with his feet as 
well as his hands. For that reason his bench is very low, being but 
slightly raised from the ground. When at work, he is mostly seated 
on the ground. 

JAPANESE CLEANING RICE. 

In this illustration we find a party of Japanese preparing rice for 
the table. The rice is dumped into the stone vessel where it is pounded 
by a man with a simply constructed mallet or hammer. The whole 
mass is then placed in another vessel in which it is cleaned. A fan is 
kept revolving between two sticks which continually stir up the grain. 
Thus the chaff is separated from the rice. This is their method 
of winnowing. 

JAPANESE KITCHEN. 

This picture represents a kitchen of one of the wealthy Japanese 
families. The lower classes have nothing that can be called a kitchen. 



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The servants are preparing a meal. The cooking utensils are quite 
rude but serve the purpose for which they were made very well. 

JAPANESE GIRL AT THE WELL. 

Japanese wells and the methods of operating them are of the 
most primitive character. The bucket or tub is fastened to a pole, 
which is raised and lowered by means of a lever-like arrangement. 
The girl in our illustration is bare-footed and has evidently been 
washing. 

JAPANESE PEDDLER. 

A Japanese peddler can carry a pack on his back much larger 
and many pounds heavier than he is. He deals in everything and is 
always ready to make a bargain. He travels around from house to 
house through the rural districts. 

JAPANESE WOMAN AND CHILD. 

This lady is about making a call for she is in out-door dress. 
The child is carried on the back, both hands being thrown behind to 
hold it. Japanese women take more than ordinary care of their 
children. 

JAPANESE BEAUTY. 

Many of the Japanese females are indeed beautiful. The por- 
trait is that of a belle, richly attired in silks. Her hair is fashionably 
put up according to their idea of style, and decorated with ornaments. 
These latter are sometimes very costly, being made of gold, and set 
with precious stones. 

JAPANESE LADIES IN FULL DRESS. 

Japanese ladies in full dress present a novel and interesting 
sight. They are literally smothered in silks that would make any 
American belle sick with envy. The heads are decorated with fans, 



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combs, and different ornaments, many of which are of gold and silver, 
studded with precious stones. The ladies in our illustration are from 
the wealthy class. 

JAPANESE PEASANT GIRLS. 

Peasant girls in Japan are just as ambitious to make an impres- 
sion as their more fortunate and wealthy sisters. Especially on holi- 
days do they exert themselves. Then they are just as flashily, though 
not as expensively attired as the wealthier ladies. The illustration rep- 
presents a group of peasant girls in such costumes. 

JAPANESE TEMPLE. 

This temple is situated near Tokio and is a good illustration of 
Japanese worshiping places. Like nearly all public or religious build- 
ings, it is very fantastically designed. The decorations and ornamen- 
tations both inside and outside are very costly ; some of them being of 
solid gold. 

LAIBTJTZ. 

Daibutz, an immense figure almost 50 feet high, is located near 
Yokohama. It is supposed to be one of the Gods and is said to 
be very ancient — many centuries old. It is one of the greatest of 
Japanese curiosities. 

PAKE IN TOKIO. 

This is a view of one of the drives through a public park. On 
either side grow huge trees so closely together as to almost entirely 
shut out the sun's rays. The building in the distance is a sort of shel- 
ter house for the accommodation of visitors. 

FUSIYAMA. 

Fusiyama, the Holy Mountain, is an extinct volcano and can be 
seen distinctly from Yokohama. It is held in great reverence by the 



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natives. It is supposed to once have been the abiding place of one or 
more of their deities. 

PAPENBERG ISLAND. 

Papenberg Island in the harbor of Nagasaki was the scene of 
the terrible massacre of Christian missionaries and native converts 
during the sixteenth century. The harbor and city are beyond the 
island, the illustration being a view from the sea. 

NATIVE QUARTER AT YOKOHAMA. 

The illustration represents the native quarter of Yokohama as 
it appeared on New Year's night, gayly decorated and illuminated for 
the celebration of that great holiday. The houses and shops were hung 
with lanterns of all sizes and colors, decorated with bright papers and 
streamers and festooned with flags of all kinds. Many of the streets 
are of good width, though a number of them are scarcely passable. 

EUROPEAN QUARTER AT YOKOHAMA. 

The European quarter of Yokohama is attractively built and 
laid out. The streets are wide and the buildings are substantial. 
Great attention is paid to these thoroughfares in regard to cleanliness. 
In many instances residences are surrounded by magnificent shade trees. 

CHINESE AT DINNER. 

Knives and forks are never used by the Chinese. Two small 
wood-sticks are exclusively employed in conveying the food from the 
dishes to the mouth. This group of chinamen is busily engaged in 
transferring the large platter of rice to their stomachs. 

CHINESE LADIES AND CHILD. 

The ladies look rather clumsy and anything but graceful in the 
dress they wear. The style in which they put up their hair is not 
according to the latest European fashion. The little child looks 
interesting. 



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STREET IN HONG KONG. 

The streets of Hong Kong are wider, cleaner and in better con- 
dition than those of Shanghai. The buildings too are larger and more 
substantial. The picture is a fair illustration of what the streets are. 
There are no sidewalks, and each side of the street is one continuous 
line of stores, in all of which are a lot of jabbering Chinese. Jinrik- 
shas are waiting for patrons like a hawk for prey. 

GARDEN IN HONG KONG. 

This is a public garden under the management ot English 
officials. In point of attractive situation, choice flowers and decorative 
vegetation it ranks with any garden in the world. It is splendidly 
kept and well patronized. 

INTERIOR OF TEMPLE (SHANGHAI). 

The interior of a Chinese Temple is indeed interesting and a 
study. On each side of the building are arranged a lot of idols of all 
sizes and shapes. The material they are constructed of is generally 
stone or wood. Before each figure is an urn into some of which the 
faithful drop their offering, while in others they keep up everlasting 
fires in honor of departed greatness. In the center, raised on a pedes- 
tal, is God Buddha himself. 

CONVEYANCES IN CHINA. 

The two popular styles of conveyance in China are the Jinriksha 
and the Sedan Chair. The 'Riksha is a cart-like vehicle drawn by a 
coolie, while the Sedan Chair is carried by two coolies. Both are cor- 
rectly represented in the illustration. 



L 



SCENE IN SINGAPORE. 



In the morning at sunrise, in the Chinese portion of Singapore, 
the scene is a very gay one. Hundreds of small craft, mostly fishing 



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boats and small lighters, covered with awning-like tops of all conceiv- 
able shapes, materials and colors can be seen. The houses are of the 
better class; the one in the background being especially of large 
dimensions. 

CHINESE TEMPLE AT SINGAPORE. 

This is the most prominent temple of the Celestials on the 
island. It has a splendid location on a part of ground overlooking the 
city and is a fine specimen of Chinese architecture. The decoration 
and ornamentation are exceedingly fine and very costly. The interior 
is filled with Buddhist idols. 

POLICE STATION (SINGAPORE) . 

This station is situated in the suburbs of Singapore, directly 
opposite a beautiful grove of palm trees. In this particular district the 
English soldiery perform police duties. 



COCOANTTT GROVE (SINGAPORE). 

This scene gives only a slight idea of the luxuriance of tropical 
vegetation. The cocoanut tree especially flourishes here in all its glory 
and usefulness. Everywhere in Singapore island large groves of these 
particular palm-trees are encountered. 

MALAY VILLAGE. 

The houses are frail structures mostly of bamboo and covered 
with palm- or other leaves. The interior of these native houses, or 
rather huts, are not furnished with special apartments intended for 
kitchen, dining, parlor, or sleeping purposes. All of these are com- 
bined in one room and that generally of very limited dimensions. The 
Malay mother always carries her child in front of her, occasionally a 
little to one side or the other and she appears to be very affectionate. 




6EERDIGUNGS PUTZ 



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TALIPAT OE FAN PALM. 

This picture was photographed near Batavia, on the island of 
Java, and is natural even to colors. The plant or tree is indigenous to 
the East Indian tropics. It often grows to an enormous size, the 
leaves reaching twenty to thirty feet. 

A SCENE IN BATAVIA. 

Batavia, on the island of Java, is a beautiful spot. The view 
selected is that of a street through the Hotel quarter. On either side 
of the road, setting far back, are palatial residences facing the most in- 
vitingly arranged parks man ever planned. The illustration but poorly 
pictures the scene. It must be beheld to be appreciated. 

SCENE IN CEYLON. 

A tropical landscape with native houses, and a number of trees 
peculiar to this climate. The palm trees, as usual, predominate. 
This picture represents a scene on a country road in the neighborhood 
of Colombo. 

PICKING COCOANUTS IN CEYLON. 

It is no uncommon thing to see a native climbing up one of the 
cocoanut trees, so plentiful in these climes, for the purpose of picking 
the nuts. These natives are active and will rob a tree of its fruit in 
a very short time. 

SINGHALESE GLRL. 



I 



SINGHALESE MAN. 

These are fine representatives of their race. They are supposed 
to be the original inhabitants of Ceylon, and at present make up fully 
three-fifths of the whole population of the island. 

The Singhalese men all wear the horse-shoe comb in their heavy 
black hair, which makes them look decidedly effeminate. 



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CEYLON STAMP-VENDEE. 

He is generally a half-breed and considers himself of the very 
greatest importance. In his curious dress, the style of which is ex- 
clusively his own, he presents quite an attractive appearance. 

RAILROAD TO KANDY, CEYLON. 

This gives a glimpse of mountain scenery along the railroad 
from Columbo to Kandy. When nearing Kandy the road winds its way 
up the mountain sides as can be seen in this illustration. 

BATHING IN THE GANGES AT BENAEES. 

This scene is characteristic of the Hindoo religion, which de- 
mands that all true believers bathe themselves or at least wash their 
entire bodies every day before they are allowed to eat a morsel of food. 
Thousands upon thousands swarm to the river from early morn until 
late at night. 

GRAND MOSQUE AT DELHI. 

This is the largest and one of finest mosques in India. It 
covers a large area of ground and with its domes and minarets is con- 
sidered a model of oriental architecture. 

THE RAJAH'S ELEPHANT. 

This is a representation of a fine specimen of the Indian 
elephant. On state or festive occasions he is always caparisoned in this 
elaborate style. 

VIEW OF CALCUTTA. 

Calcutta received its name — " The City of Palaces " — from this 
combination of buildings. In the fore-ground is the Government house, 
the residence of the Viceroy of India. The building with the dome in 
the back-ground is the Post Office. The other structures are all occu- 



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pied by the different departments of government. The road in the 
immediate front is the famous drive. 

MEMORAL WELL AT CAWNPORE. 

On the plain of Cawnpore, marble walls enclose the well in 
which the bodies of so many Christians were thrown during the mutiny 
of 1857. Immediately over the well stands the marble figure of an 
angel having in her arms palm leaves. The inscription reads : " Sacred 
to the perpetual memory of a great company of Christian people, chiefly 
women and children, who, near this spot, were cruelly massacred by 
the followers of the rebel Nana Dhoondopunt of Bithoor and cast, the 
dying with the dead, into the well below, on the fifteenth day of 
July 1857." 

THE TAJ AT AGEA, VIEW FEOM THE GARDEN. 

This is said to be one of the grandest buildings in the world. 
In fact it is generally conceded to be the grandest. Twenty thousand 
men were engaged twenty-two years in erecting it, and it is said to have 
cost $15,000,000. To-day it could not be built for $50,000,000. " It 
is a dream in marble," says a renowned traveler in his description. The 
gardens in the fore-ground contain the most luxurious vegetation, and 
are splendidly kept under the able management of a superintendent 
appointed by the English Government. 

THE TAJ, FULL VIEW. 

This is the appearance of the wonderful Taj from the river 
Jumna side. The buildings on either side are the two mosques. The 
garden is on the other side in front of the Taj. 

GRAND GATE TO THE TAJ. 

The Grand Gate is a magnificent structure. The workmanship 
is exquisite as is also the architectural design. This is the grand or 
principle entrance to the gardens. 



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HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS, FROM DAEJEELING. 

It is only possible to give a faint idea of the grandeur and sub- 
limity of these the mightiest of mountains. This view was taken 
near Darjeeling, and is the most striking and desirable that could be 
obtained. 

BAILEOAD UP THE HIMALAYAS. 

This is one of the greatest feats of railroad engineering ever ac- 
complished anywhere. The zigzag manner of construction which un- 
doubtedly required great skill will be observed. The building of the 
retaining walls cost an immense sum of money. 

EEADY FOE CEEMATION IN INDIA. 

The Hindoos, as a general thing, burn all their dead. This is 
an illustration of a body laid out on a stretcher, ready to be taken to 
the place of cremation. 

GOING TO THE TEMPLE. 

The devout Hindoo visits his temple daily, offering prayers and 
sacrifices to the numerous Gods he worships. In our picture at the 
right-hand corner one of his idols can be seen, presumably a stone 
image of one of the sacred bulls. Many of the temples, especially 
those at Benares, are constantly filled with devotees. 

PUBLIC GAEDENS AND ESPLANADE HOTEL. 

The Esplanade Hotel is probably the most popular and best 
patronized in the East. The location is delightful. It faces the public 
gardens, which, as can be seen, are grand. Around the gardens there 
is an elegant drive which is frequented by the elite of the city of 
Bombay every evening. 

SAILOES HOME. 

At Bombay, the English Government sustains a large Sailors' 
Home which is conducted on an extensive scale. It is open to all 



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English sailors in case of sickness or disability from sickness, accident 
or old age. 



PUBLIC WORKS BUILDING. 



Hardly a city in the world has a finer Public Building than 
Bombay. All the public offices are located here together. The 
building is situated in the center of a large open square. 



COTTON MARKET. 



Bombay's cotton trade is very large. The cotton ground in 
that locality is of a very superior quality. A large part of the trade is 
controlled by the Parsees, some of whom can be seen in the illustration. 
But there are also some few English interested in this business. 

BUDDHIST PRIEST. 

A NAUTCH GIRL. 

WAITER IN CALCUTTA. 

BRAHMIN, HIGH CASTE HINDOO. 

DANCING GIRLS. 

WATER CARRIER. 

These are all life-like representations of East Indian characters. 
The Buddhist Priest is engaged in prayer. It can not be said that his 
outward appearance is very inviting. 

The Nautch girls and the dancing girls are met with everywhere 
in India. As a general thing they are very pretty and dress rather fan- 
tastically. The decoration of their noses with jewelry, mostly of the 
cheap kind, disfigures them. 

The Waiter in Calcutta can be found at the Great Eastern 
Hotel. He presents a very attractive appearance in this, the regula- 
tion uniform. 

The young Brahmin, a member of the highest Hindoo caste, is 
very particular as to the fineness and whiteness of his linen, and the 



^ 



194 



brightness of the stripes with which he decorates his arms and body. 
A Brahmin is not necessarily a priest, but is allowed to ply any 
vocation. 

The Water-carrier handles the goat-skin in which he carries his 
water very dexterously, and when sprinkling the streets of Calcutta, 
he distributes the water from the mouth of the skin-bag that he 
carries as easily as it can be done with a regular sprinkling-cart. 

A NATJTCH DANCE. 

Groups of this class of entertainers in India travel in bands from 
place to place, like the wrestlers in Japan, giving exhibitions in every 
town and village. 

EAST INDIA DRY GOODS STORE. 

These stores are merely stalls, seldom more than from eight to 
ten feet in width, with even a less depth. The purchaser buys his 
goods direct from the street on the plan of our fruit-stands. 

EAST INDIA CONVEYACNE. 

Two bullocks are generally hitched to a cart-like vehicle which 
is provided with a canvas-top to protect the occupants from the scorch- 
ing rays of the Indian sun. Some of these conveyances, especially those 
at Delhi, are built in the most elaborate style. The bullocks are for 
the most-part pure white in color, and the very finest of their species. 

INDIA JUGGLERS. 

The Jugglers in India are generally snake-charmers also. The 
small round baskets in the left corner of the picture contain the 
snakes. The little boy is playing on an instrument, peculiar to that 
country, from which he succeeds in producing the most screeching tones, 
while the elder one is showing his skill in the performance of a number 
of jugglers tricks. They display great dexterity and cunning. 



^^*C" 



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195 



GEORGE MOERLEIN AND PARTY IN INDIA. 

The original of this .picture was taken at Bombay upon our 
arrival there after having completed our East Indian tour. 

The central figure is John F. Leidlein ; to the right of the 
picture is Charles Cramer seated comfortably on a ledge of rock; 
standing to the left is the author, and in the rear Bazoo, our guide, 
armed with a gigantic palm-fan and the indispensible canteen. 

FOUNTAIN OF MOSES. 

On the East side of the Bed Sea, a short distance inland, is 
situated the Fountain of Moses. This is an Oasis in the desert 
directly opposite Suez. There are many cool wells here and great 
shade-trees and dense shrubbery, making it a desirable stopping place for 
the Caravans which always halt here while en route to and from Arabia. 

BAZAAR IN ALEXANDRIA. 

This part of Alexandria, like that of Cairo, retains it true orien- 
tal character. In the march of civilization mostly all oriental cities 
have partly or altogether thrown off their ancient garb, and adopted 
the styles and features of the commonplace European cities. It appears 
that the day is not far distant when we will seek in vain for traces even 
of the once so charming oriental scenes. 

ASCENDING THE PYRAMIDS. 

In ascending the Great Pyramid the traveler receives the assis- 
tance of three natives, two of whom go before him from layer to layer, 
pulling him by the hands, while the third stays on the same layer and 
pushes. It will be noticed that the sides of the Great Pyramid are not 
smooth as is generally supposed. The former smooth outer layer was 
taken off and the stones used in building up Cairo. The square 
opening in front is the entrance to the interior. 



1 



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DANCING DERVISHES. 

They are a Mohammedan sect, who number among their discip- 
les men in all stations of life. When practicing their religion they 
dress in this odd style, and will for hours go through a series of motions 
with their hands, feet and head, contorting their bodies into almost 
every conceivable shape, and repeat in a sing-song style various parts 
of the Koran hundreds and hundreds of times. The exercises they 
keep up until they are exhausted. They have no objections to strangers 
being present. 

FELLAH WOMEN. 

This costume, with a black or colored veil, is worn by all 
Egyptian women with the exception of mendicants, who wear anything 
they can get hold of. This illustrates a group of Egyptian peasants 
and the curious fashion in which the mother carries the young offspring. 

SNAKE CHARMERS. 

Snake charmers are not as numerous in Egypt as they are in 
India. But they are occasionally met within the streets of the cities 
and towns, and always attract a crowd of lookers-on. They handle the 
snakes with great freedom, but take great care not to be bitten. It is 
believed that the poisonous fangs are always extracted and that the 
snakes are therefore harmless. 

SPHINX AND PYRAMIDS. 

The sphinx is only a short distance from the pyramids. The 
head and a small part of the body is all that is visible of this almost 
prehistoric relic, the balance being covered by the desert sands. 

MEHEMET ALl's MOSQUE AT CAIRO. 

This is the most magnificent mosque in Egypt. From its ele- 
vated position a splendid view of Cairo can be obtained. In the fore- 
ground is an Egyptian cemetery with its curious tombs. 



«J 




BULGARIAN 



Z£^$M£k&0Mi&^ ^M>SfS3i£<. 



BUL6ASS fc oTirBTA:KrTINOP:LE > > SVWA " 



ARABER VOH SfRIEN 



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197 



POET SAID AND THE SUEZ CANAL. 

The course of the canal can easily be traced into the desert. 
The ships lying here at anchor have either just come out of the canal 
or are waiting to enter it. The large steamer in the fore-ground is one 
of England's great men-of-war. The view of Port Said with the canal 
in the distance is a very interesting one. Port Said has the reputation 
of being the worst city in the world. 

RETURN OF THE CARAVAN. 

Having exchanged their goods in Cairo the Caravan is again re- 
turning to Arabia, crossing the Suez canal on a pontoon bridge. Some- 
times hundreds of camels can be seen in one continuous line, forming 
quite a respectable procession. 

THE WIFE OF THE KHEDIVE. 

We acquired this picture from a dealer in Cairo who guaranteed, 
that it was a true likeness of the Khedive's wife. Be this as it may, 
everybody must admit that it represents a charming creature. She is 
endowed with beauty, such as is rarely met with even in the Orient. • 

TRAVELING- FELLAHS. 

These are Egyptian country people or farmers. The indispen- 
sible driver is always prepared to urge the donkey along, either by 
goading him with his stick, pushing him forward or by twisting 
his tail. Of the lady riding the donkey little can be seen, but she is 
evidently of the better class of peasant women. 

AT THE WELL IN CAIRO. 

Sights of this kind are met with frequently in Egypt. At 
this well some people are washing themselves, others are engaged 
in drawing water from it, while the young Egyptian is enjoying 
a quiet nap. 



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198 



exterior of christ's tomb in jerusalem. 

interior op Christ's tomb in Jerusalem. 

The decoration and ornamentation are most elaborate and costly. 
The appearance of the whole is sublime. In the interior, in the fore- 
ground, is the tomb proper where are supposed to lie the Savior's re- 
mains, directly back of which a pilgrim is offering his prayers. 

Greek-Christian Priests and Monks, mostly Russians, are in 
constant attendance. Several of them can easily be distinguished in 
their priestly garb, and their patriarchial beards. 

MOHAMMEDAN HOME IN JERUSALEM. 

The Turk and his wife are sitting or rather squatting on a rug 
before their little table. From the expression in their faces one would 
imagine that they were not in the most cheerful mood. They are about 
to take their meal. 



JEWS WAILING PLACE IN JERUSALEM. 

Daily large numbers of the devout Israelites can be seen here 
wailing over the destruction of Solomon's temple. The wall shown on 
this picture is believed to be a part of the great temple. 

BEYROUT AND THE MOUNTAINS OF LEBANON. 

The beautiful harbor to the left and the renowned mountains in 
the back-ground are prominent. The location of the city is delightful. 
It is a great resort for invalids. Many of the houses have flat roofs to 
which the inmates repair in the evening and at night to enjoy the 
cool breeze from the bay. 

TURK AT PRAYER. 

The Turk always prays on his knees with his face toward Mecca 
in Arabia and always removes his shoes. While thus performing his 
religious duties he kisses the floor a great number of times. 



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199 



CONVEYANCES IN ASIA MINOE. 

Vehicles of this description loaded "with Turkish beauties, and 
always under escort are common scenes in the Orient. The finest turn- 
out of this kind we saw at Smyrna. It was elaborately decorated and 
drawn by two fine bullocks. Of the females who occupied it we 
could only see the eyes. 

THE SULTAN'S PALACES ON THE BOSPHORUS. 

The palaces shown here are the principal ones on the Bosphorus. 
They are large and elegant structures. The small dome-like building 
in the left-hand corner represents the private mosque of the Sultan, 
to which he goes every Friday, about noon, in grand procession to 
worship. 

THE BAZAAES OF CONSTANTINOPLE. 

The low building in the fore-ground covered with small 
domes is the great bazaar. The light in its vault-like interior is very 
dim, which undoubtedly works beneficially for the seller, but to great 
disadvantage for the buyer. The bazaar is situated in the center of 
Stamboul, on the Southern shore of the Golden Horn. Stamboul is the 
Turkish quarter and occupies an extensive territory. A good idea of 
its appearance can be obtained from this illustration. 

MOSQUE OP SAINT SOPHIA. 

Saint Sophia ranks among the mosques as the largest and finest 
in the world. It is an imposing edifice and is daily visited by thousands. 
The immediate surroundings are anything but attractive. The houses 
are small and in some instances dilapidated, making the approaches 
very uninviting. 

STEEET IN PEEA. 

The streets in Pera, one of the quarters of Constantinople, are 
good. The houses on either side of the thorough-fare, which is the 



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subject of our illustration, are all well built and mostly of modern 
architecture. 

CEMETERY IN CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Mohammedans are not much concerned about their burying 
grounds. They are terribly neglected, and interesting only because of 
their disorder. While there are in some instances family lots the 
graves generally are scattered about without regard to system. The 
stones marking the resting places of the dead partake of this same 
disarray and are strikingly odd in design and shape. 

BRIDGE OP GALATA. 

This bridge is a wooden structure across the Golden Horn and 
connects Stamboul and Galata, both suburbs of Constanstinople. It is 
but slightly elevated above the water. In the center there is a draw to 
allow the passage of large sized boats. The travel on this bridge 
during the day is immense. Our view is taken from the Stamboul end 
of the bridge with Galata and Pera in the distance. The large tower 
to the left is the Fire Tower. 

TURKISH PALACE SERVANT. 

At the Sultan's parade in Constantinople we saw a large number 
of these servants, dressed in long Prince Albert coats with black-cloth 
pantaloons, highly polished shoes, and wearing a red fez. In walking 
along the streets it appeared as if it were their sole object to impress 
everybody, who chanced to look at them, with an idea of their great im- 
portance. They are all full-blood Africans with very dark com- 
plexions and tall and well proportioned. 

HOWLING DERVISHES. 

They belong to a fanatic sect of Mohammedans. They dress in 
the style indicated, and howl, jump and gesticulate in the most dis- 
gusting manner, when performing their religious services. 



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A BULGARIAN. 

He is one of the race of sturdy mountaineers who inhabit their 
fine country to the North of Roumelia, to the South of Roumania and 
to the West of Servia. He is a fine specimen of manhood, bold and 
fearless, and an excellent soldier in battle. 

SYRIAN ARAB. 

Our Arabian Sheik, who accompanied us to the Dead Sea and the 
Jordan river, was dressed in this fantastic but at the same time romantic 
costume. In the valley of the Jordan river, in the immediate vicinity 
of Jericho, many of them live with their families in tents covered with 
striped black and dirty white material, herding their sheep and cattle. 
Large numbers also inhabit certain sections in Syria. 

TURKISH BEAUTY. 

TURKISH SERVANTS. 

ARMENIAN WOMEN. 

TURKISH WOMEN AT HOME. 

Our Turkish beauty, despite the veil, discloses a pair of the 
most lovely eyes, as well as an expression of countenance beaming with 
kindness. She can occasionally be seen in her elegant coupe, riding 
through the streets of Constantinople or the " Sweet Waters." She is 
always the observed of all observers. 

The Turkish servants wear no veils and when accompanying 
their mistresses are always clad as illustrated. 

The Armenian woman with her rich and luxuriant black tresses, 
sparkling black eyes and fair complexion is decidedly attractive. 
When at home she is usually clad in a wrapper which gives her a 
clumsy appearance. 

The ladies' apartments of a wealthy Turk's home, are furnished 
with all that is comfortable and in the most elegant style. The ladies 



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are always richly attired and wile away the weary hours in drinking 
coffee, and smoking pipes or cigarettes. 



TURKISH ARMY OFFICER. 



TURKISH BEGGAR. 



TURKISH SCISSORS-GRINDER. 



GYPSY GIRL. 

In the streets of the Turkish Capital the traveler soon becomes 
familiar with these characters. The officers and soldiers, in the style 
of their uniform, closely resemble those of the other European 
countries, with the exception of the covering for the head. The red 
fez which is worn iu nearly all cases is the only distinguishing feature 
between them and the soldiers in other parts of Europe. 

The beggar woman and child, the scissors-grinder and the gypsy 
girl are met with everywhere in Constantinople. 

MAP OP THE TRIP AROUND THE WORLD. 

The red line indicates the exact route taken. by the tourists. 



ERRATUM. 

The bottom illustration, on the same plate with the " Rajah's Elephant," 
has by mistake been inscribed " The Taj at Agra." It should read " The Grand 
Mosque at Delhi." 



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HntEl CfiarQES. *- 



The Hotel charges in the Eastern countries are on the whole 
more reasonable than the American rates. The accommodations are in 
some instances not quite as good, but the Houses must be ranked first- 
class. Frequently the guests are compelled to hire their own servants 
which at the most amounts to little. In order to give a general idea 
as to Hotel rates, we will mention the prices of the principal houses in 
the different countries : 

Grand Hotel, Yokohama, Japan, 

Astor House, Shanghai, China, 

Victoria Hotel, Hong Kong, China, 

Hotel de 1' Europe, Singapore, 

Hotel der Nederlanden, Batavia, Java, 

New Oriental Hotel, Colombo, Ceylon, 

Great Eastern Hotel, Calcutta, India, 

Woodlands Hotel, Darjeeling, India, . 

Clark's Hotel, Benares, India, 

Laurie's Hotel, Agra, India, 

Kellner's Hotel, Delhi, India, 

Esplanade Hotel, Bombay, India, 

Suez Hotel, Suez, Egypt, 

Shepheard's Hotel, Cairo, (Breakfast extra), 

Hotel Abbat, Alexandria, Egypt, 

Howard's Hotel, Jaffa, Palestine, 

Hotel Feil, Jerusalem, Palestine, 

Hotel D'Angleterre, Constantinople, Turkey, 



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204 



-« Distances TravElEd. »- 












Nautical 
lilies 



From Cincinnati to St. Louis, by Railroad, 
" St. Louis to Kansas City, " 

" Kansas City to Denver, " 

" Denver to Cheyenne, " 

" Cheyenne to Ogden, " 

" Ogden to Salt Lake City and return to Ogden, by Rail, 
" Ogden to San Francisco, by Railroad, 
" San Francisco to Los Angeles and return to San Francisco 
" San Francisco toYokohama,Japan,by steamer, 4955 
" Yokohama to Tokio and return, by railroad, 
" Yokohama to Hiogo, Japan, by steamer, 348 
" Hiogo to Nagasaki, Japan, " " 390 

" Nagasaki to Shanghai, China, " " 469 

" Shanghai to Hong Kong, China, " " 860 

" Hong Kong to Canton and return, " " 160 

Hong Kong to Macao and return, " " 60 

Hong Kong to Singapore, " " 1450 

Singapore to Batavia and return, " " 1140 
Batavia to Buitenzorg and return, by railroad, 
Singapore to Colombo, Ceylon, by steamer, 1770 
Colombo to Kandy and return, by railroad, 
Colombo to Poudicherry, India, by steamer, 560 
Pondicherry to Madras, India, " " 90 

Madras to Calcutta, India, " " 770 

Calcutta to Darjeeling and return, by railroad, . 
Calcutta to Benares, India, " " 

Benares to Allahabad, India, " ■' 

Allahabad to Agra, " " " 



English 
Miles. 

341 
297 
639 
106 
516 

74 

895 

964 

- 5740 

36 

■ 403 

■ 451 

■ 541 

■ 996 

■ 185 

69 

■ 1679 
1320 

80 
2050 
144 
648 
104 
892 
722 
475 
101 
278 



V- 




Turkish nwyorucu> 



TURKISCHER ARMEE OFHZIER /CONST AHTINOPLE \ TtHWW BEOOAR 



TUROSCHP BEITlfR 




r 








'-> 




205 






From Agra to Delhi, India, 


by railroad 




English 
Miles. 

142 


a 


Delhi to Ahmedabad, " 


11 it 




580 


it 


Ahmedabad to Bombay, " 


if a 




309 


a 


Bombay to Aden, Arabia, 


by steamer, 1690 


Nautical 
Miles 


1956 


tt 


Aden to Suez, Egypt, 


1350 


a 


1552 


a 


Suez to Cairo, Egypt, 


by railroad, 




149 


n 


Cairo to Alexandria, 


a a 




129 


it 


Alexandria to Constantinople, ■) 

■ t & r> • 4. a ^by steamer, 1139 
via J ana, .Beirut, Smyrna, J 


tt 


1308 


it 


Constantinople toVarna,Bulgaria, " " 165 


tt 


190 


tt 


Varna to Vienna, 


by railroad, 




1077 


a 


Vienna to Munich, 


a a 




291 


a 


Munich to Strassburg, 


u tt 




254 


a 


Strassburg to Bischweiler, 


it ti 




17 


It 


Bischweiler to Mayence, 


tt it 




114 


tt 


Mayence to Frankfort, 


tt a 




23 


a 


Frankfort to Mayence, 


it a 




23 


a 


Mayence to Cologne, 


On River Rhine, 




116 


a 


Cologne to Berlin, 


by railroad, 




383 


tt 


Berlin to Dresden, 


ti n 




118 


tt 


Dresden to Nuremberg, 


it a 




259 


tt 


Nuremberg to Strassburg,via 


Stuttgart and Carlsruhe, by rai 


1, 247 


tt 


Strassburg to Bischweiler, 


by railroad, 




17 


it 


Bischweiler to Strassburg, 


a it 




17 


tt 


Strassburg to Paris, 


tt a 




308 


tt 


Paris to London, 


" " and steamer, 


254 


a 


London to Liverpool, 


a tt 




201 


tt 


Liverpool to New York, by steamer, 3180 nautical miles - 


3657 


tt 


New York to Cincinnati, by 


railroad, 




757 




Total by steamer, 


23,741 


miles. 






" " railroad, 


11,453 


miles. 




V. , 


Total, 35,194 


.> 



1111 




Mftfcv 



SUHHii 



